Archives 2019

Last-Minute Gift Ideas 2019!

Looking for some last-minute gifts and don’t want to give gift cards again this year? Consider one of these eco-friendly options:

Plant a Tree (Where They’re Really Needed)

Don’t worry, you don’t have to do any of the heavy lifting! There are several organizations that plant trees in North Texas and across the world. Your donations directly contribute to reforestation where it is needed most. Many of these sites offer e-cards and downloadable certificates that make a wonderful reminder for your loved ones that trees were planted in their honor.

Some of the organizations that Texas Tree Surgeons has partnered with in the past are:

Arbor Day Foundation

A world leader in tree planting and preservation, the Arbor Day Foundation offers paper and e-cards for the holidays, as well as saplings that can be shipped and planted in one’s own yard.

One Tree Planted

One Tree Planted offers a simple “One Dollar, One Tree” program that helps reforestation in South America, Asia, and also locally in the US.

National Forest Foundation

The National Forest Foundation is dedicated to preserving our United States National Forests and every dollar donated means one more native tree planted.

ReTREET

Born in North Texas, ReTREET has led tree planting efforts in areas of our country devastated by natural disaster, including the Gulf Coast, Missouri, Louisiana, and right here in North Texas. 

Help Preserve Our Natural Resources

The Nature Conservancy

The Nature Conservancy is a global non-profit committed to protecting and restoring all of nature’s beauty through a diversity of programs all over the world.

National Parks Foundation

Like the NFF does for our National Forests, the National Parks Foundation cares for our US National Parks and provides help to both native plants and animals.

Make Someone’s Trash into Treasure

Turn Compost

Turn Compost is a Dallas-based home composting service. Members get a receptacle for compostable waste that is collected regularly. Twice a year, members can receive fresh compost for their home gardens or donate their contribution to local community farms.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! We are thankful to be able to serve our beautiful North Texas urban forest and are proud to partner with organizations like those listed above. As of December 2019, we have planted over 1400 trees through our partnerships, and we look forward to increasing that number in the years to come. We hope that the holiday season, and all year, is full of peace and joy for you and your loved ones.

Can Christmas Trees Grow in North Texas?

While Christmas tree farms are not a common sight around North Texas, and many traditional evergreen trees do not thrive in our urban forest, there are several native evergreen species that can be used to give your yard some year-round color. Additionally, we’ll mention some introduced species that are popular, but don’t always do well in our environment.

Native Texas Evergreens

  • Eastern Redcedar

The eastern redcedar is the closest thing we have to a native Christmas tree in North Texas. With many different cultivars and growing patterns, the eastern redcedar can be a large shrub with a conical shape or be allowed to grow into a larger shade tree. Hardy in a wide range of soils, the eastern redcedar can survive both our sweltering summers and freezing winters. Some people are allergic to eastern redcedar, so it is, unfortunately, not the best choice for every situation. But if you are looking for a live Christmas tree to adorn your yard, eastern redcedar is your best bet.

  • Nellie R. Stevens Holly

There are a wide variety of hollies that are native to Texas, but perhaps the most classically “holly-like” is the Nellie R. Stevens holly. This versatile shrub can grow to as much as 30 feet tall, or be regularly trimmed for a low hedge. The Nellie R. Stevens holly features deep green, glossy foliage and the female specimens produce bright red berries. If you want a winter classic that looks marvelous against snow (when we get snow), the Nellie R. Stevens holly is perfect. Plus, the branches, leaves, and berries can be harvested to make great additions to holiday decor.

  • Yaupon Holly

The yaupon holly doesn’t have quite the traditional holly features of other species, but still features green leaves and red berries. In North Texas, yaupons are more often seem as small ornamental trees, rather than in a hedge, as they have smaller leaves than other shrubs, and can sometimes appear uneven. Different varieties of yaupon have been bred for various landscape uses, including a visually-striking “weeping” cultivar. While the leaves and branches may not be as suitable for holiday decor, the leaves can be brewed into a strong tea that has nearly as much caffeine as coffee. Avoid eating the berries, however, which are mildly toxic.

  • Magnolia

Magnolias are not often thought of around Christmas, but these southern staples are some of the most common evergreens in the area. Magnolias can range in size from majestic, 40-foot-tall examples, with foliage draping the trunk all the way to the ground, to small cultivars that can be used as shrubs. While magnolias are generally well-suited to North Texas, to really thrive, some varieties need extra care. With their large leaves, magnolias can also cause quite a mess during leaf exchange. Still, it is hard to go wrong with magnolias, which is why they are a Texas classic.

Introduced Evergreens

  • Pines (Afghan/Eldarica, Austrian, Japanese)

While there are pine trees native to Texas, they are found in different ecoregions, and are not naturally features of our North Texas blackland prairie. Still, some pine species have been imported to the area, with varying success. Most pines prefer dry, sandy, or rocky soils over the denser, clay-heavy soil of North Texas. A lack of proper drainage can lead to moisture retention in the soil, which can cause some species of pine to develop fungal infestations. With proper monitoring, pines can be cultivated in North Texas, but they rarely thrive, and may be more suited to shrub or ornamental usage.

  • Italian Cypress and Junipers

Once a ubiquitous feature of North Texas landscaping, Italian cypresses and their cousins in the juniper family have developed many health issues in the past few years. Like pines, Italian cypresses are well-suited to sandy, rocky, dry soil, and need proper drainage. This makes them drought-tolerant, and ideal for their Mediterranean home, but also leads to high susceptibility to fungal issues. With high rainfall, cypresses and junipers can develop fungal cankers and brown out quickly. Because of the presence of the responsible fungi in the natural environment, treatment is often ineffective. If you have Italian cypresses or similar species, and have been noticing a decline, it may be time to consider replacing them with evergreens better-suited to our environment.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (evergreen or not) and we love our customers! There are other native Texas trees that are evergreen, such as the Texas mountain laurel and our local favorite live oak, but we thought these would be a good place to start if you are looking for some winter color as a gift or want some landscaping ideas. As always, we are happy to have one of our certified arborists discuss which evergreen would be best-suited for your particular needs. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with those or any other questions you may have, and we hope this holiday season and the year to come are filled with joy for you and your loved ones!

When is the Best Time to Trim Trees?

Tree trimming or tree pruning in Texas is generally best when done after temperatures cool off in the fall and before buds begin to grow in the spring. Removal of dead, broken, or damaged limbs can be done anytime. The worst time to trim a tree is in the spring just after it has budded out. The tree will already have used its energy to start new growth, and will not be able to recover from the trimming as well or as quickly. At Texas Tree Surgeons, tree trimming is the most common service we provide, and is essential to maintaining health and safety in our urban forest.

Why is it best to trim trees in the fall and winter?

Trimming trees at the right time is crucial to keeping them healthy. During the fall, the tree’s internal systems begin to slow, as it prepares to go dormant (similar to hibernation in animals). Entering a dormant state helps the tree survive the winter cold, frost, and ice. As the weather cools, the water in tree tissue begins to be converted to starch, which insulates cellular tissue against freezing damage. During this period of dormancy, trees are able to heal the wounds made from pruning before the stressors of spring, like disease and insects, arrive.

Proper trimming is not just a matter of timing, however, but also of technique. Trimming your trees at the proper time in the fall or winter cannot compensate for the damage done through over-trimming, lion-tailing, or topping. Even though a dormant tree can better withstand these damaging types of trimming, the overall health of the tree may be irreparably harmed.

Should cuts be sealed or painted after trimming?

Sealing or painting wounds after pruning cuts have been made is no longer the best indicated practice for routine trimming. Sealing paint can interfere with the tree’s natural healing process. Allowing the tree to form wound wood and seal cuts itself leads to increased tree vigor and quicker recovery. However, when there is a risk for certain diseases, like oak wilt, painting tree trimming wounds is an important protective measure.

Why is it important to use a company with certified arborists to trim your tree?

Every tree is different. Two trees of the same species planted next to each other may still react differently to their surroundings. Having an ISA Certified Arborist examine your trees before trimming is crucial to ensuring proper care. In a yard with different tree species, there may be a range of trimming needs. A certified arborist can assess each individual tree to make the best recommendations for trimming, taking into account species, environment, disease or pest activity, and the tree’s natural life cycle. Improper trimming at the wrong time of year can cause a tree’s health to decline substantially. A certified arborist’s knowledge of tree biology and trimming best practices leads to the best trimming recommendations for your trees.

Is there a best time to trim a particular species of tree?

While it is generally best for all trees to be trimmed in the fall and winter, it is important to be aware of issues particular to a given species.

 

Oaks:

  • The best time to trim oak trees in Texas is in the fall and winter.
    • It is critical to avoid trimming during oak wilt season (February-July) if at all possible.
    • Live oaks typically do a leaf exchange in late winter so it is better to trim them in late fall or early winter.
  • Dead and broken branches can be removed at any time.

Maples:

  • The best time to trim maples is fall and winter.
    • Pruning in the early spring can lead to sap leaking from the pruning cuts.
    • Maple trees are one of the few trees that have fall color in Texas so pruning after the leaf drop is usually preferred.

Elms:

  • Elms are hardy and native to Texas. They are typically the first to get their leaves and the first to lose their leaves.
    Trimming elms in the fall and in the winter is best to avoid sap leaking.
  • Elms are prone to rotting where large pruning cuts are made or poor puts are made so conservative trimming is best.
  • In the parts of North America where Dutch elm disease is present, elms should be trimmed before March.

Crape Myrtles:

  • Crepe Myrtles produce flowers on each year’s new growth.
    • Trimming in the fall leads to more blossoms in the spring.
    • Trimming in the late spring will reduce the number of flowers the following year.
  • For the health of the crape myrtle, the best time to trim is winter.
    • Topping crape myrtles is never a good practice.

You Should Never Top Crape Myrtles

In our previous post, we discussed why topping crape myrtles is an improper practice. Topping not only destroys the natural beauty of the tree, but can leave it more susceptible to disease and insect infestation.

Bradford Pears:

  • Bradford pears can be safely trimmed at any time.
  • Proper structural pruning when needed is very important for Bradford pears because their natural growth patterns often lead to weakness at branch joints.

Fruit Trees:

  • Structural pruning for fruit trees should be done in the winter.
  • Trimming for fruit production should be done just after bloom in early spring.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers. In the winter, it can be easy to forget about our trees, as their leaves are gone and we spend less time outside. However, remembering that winter is the best time to trim trees can lead to healthier, more beautiful trees in the summer. We are always happy to come out and assess your trees for their particular trimming needs. When tree trimming must be done out of season, we are able to make sure that best practices are followed to minimize any negative effects. One of our certified arborists can make personalized recommendations based on your trees. Get in touch today!

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: Why Do I Have So Many Acorns?

Why are there so many acorns this year?

Owners of oaks in North Texas have been asking us about the number of acorns they are seeing in their yards this year. While it’s easy to point to the weather patterns or other environmental factors, those don’t seem to explain the sheer volume we are seeing all over the community.

Another explanation for the proliferation of acorns is that we are in what is called a “mast” year. “Masting” is the biological term for the tendency of trees in a given area to be synchronized in their production of seeds, such as acorns. Weather patterns, animal activity, and other environmental factors can lead to the syncing of acorn production. For a great discussion of the possible causes of masting, check out this article from The Conversation.

What Can I Do About Acorns?

Unfortunately, aside from waiting for trees to slow their natural production, there is not a reliable way to lessen the amount of acorns. Trimming away from driveways and structures can prevent some of the visible mess acorns can leave. However, many trees produce seeds on new growth, so heavy trimming can lead to increased production the next year. While there are some studies underway for chemical acorn and seed control, there are as yet no proven solutions.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers. Whether you have seed-dropping trees or not, keeping them trimmed is the best way to keep them healthy. As weather patterns change, we will continue to see changes in our urban forest. Talk to your arborist or follow our Facebook posts to keep up-to-date on what’s going on with trees in North Texas!

What Happens When a Tree Falls on My Car?

With all the storms in 2019, we have seen unprecedented damage to our community. We have previously covered what happens when a tree falls on your house, and we wanted to supplement that information. We reached out to Katie Tu, a content specialist with QuoteWizard, to answer a few questions.

Does home insurance or auto insurance cover a tree falling on your car?

Most people think that their homeowners insurance will cover the costs if a tree falls on their car. However, this is not the case, unless your car happens to be parked in your garage and a tree falls through the garage and damages your car. In most other situations, your auto insurance will be the one you should look to for coverage.


Keep in mind that different insurance companies will handle these types of situations differently than others, and if you have any specific questions, you should contact your agent for clarifications.

What part of my auto insurance covers for tree damage?

Auto insurance comprises of the following elements: liability, collision, comprehensive, personal injury protection (PIP), uninsured motorist, and underinsured motorist. 

In the situation where a tree damages your vehicle, your comprehensive coverage is where you will be covered for it. Comprehensive coverage protects you from things like theft, fire, falling objects (like a tree), and natural disasters. 

Depending on your state or auto lender, you may not be required to have comprehensive coverage. However, if your car does get damaged for some of the reasons mentioned above, it’s a good idea to consider having it.

Are there any limitations to the coverage for tree damages?

That is going to be dependent on your insurance carrier and the coverages they offer. However, we do know that there are a couple things they may not cover:

  • Your carrier is unlikely to cover repairs that cost more than the worth of your car. Therefore, if your vehicle is totaled, they are likely to pay the actual cash value of the car instead.
  • They may not pay for the removal of the tree. You may think this is something you could do, but you may risk damaging the car even further. We suggest calling professionals to assist you with removing the tree.

What are the next steps after a tree has fallen on my car?

As soon as you notice the damage to your car, contact your agent or a representative of your auto insurance company. Try to provide as much detail and information as you can about what happened, and they can help navigate you on the next steps.


After completing your conversation, here’s what you should do:

  • Take lots of photos: Try to get different angles, close-ups, and whole picture.
  • Remove the debris: Avoid hurting yourself or doing any more additional damage. If the job is too big or dangerous for you to do yourself, consult with a tree care company for assistance.
  • Check your policy: If you didn’t do it over the phone already, check your policy limits and your deductible. You’ll want to make sure you’re also able to pay for your deductible as well.
  • See where the tree damage came from: Check to see if it came from your neighbor’s yard or vice versa.

If the tree that fell on my car was my neighbors, whose insurance pays for it?

If you suspect that your neighbor is at fault for the tree damage to your car, their insurer could pay for the damages if you have hard evidence or proof that they were negligent with care. Evidence like a dated letter to your neighbor asking them to cut the tree due to rot or some other reason could help with your case.


Keep in mind that this works both ways, so if you have a tree that could potentially cause damage to your neighbor, you’ll want to make sure you keep maintenance on it. If you ignore certain warning signs, you and your insurance may have to pay for the damages.
 

Regardless, if a tree has fallen on your car and you’re looking for coverage, you would need to file a claim with your insurance.

How could I prevent this from happening?

Of course, to prevent any issues in the first place is to be proactive and do maintenance as needed for trees. If you have a tree in your yard, check it routinely, especially before hurricane season or the winter, to see if you may need to trim it.

It’s always a good idea to also check on your neighbor’s trees or talk to your neighbor about keeping their tree routinely checked to avoid any future damages or headaches.

Katie Tu specializes in auto, home, renters, and health insurance conversations. She has been featured in numerous blogs and major publications such as Forbes, The Simple Dollar, Realtor, and more. You can connect with Katie on Twitter or by e-mail.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we hate to see destruction like we had in 2019. If you are concerned about the safety or stability of your or your neighbor’s trees, or have any other questions, let us know.

How Do I Plant a New Tree?

With the extensive and repeated storm damage we have had in 2019, many neighborhoods have lost their beautiful, established trees. While there is no quick fix to restore our urban forest to its former glory, planting new trees now will have benefits in the years to come.

Many communities have had recent programs to distribute new trees to residents, but they will do little good if they are not given the opportunity to become established and thrive. While trees are self-sustaining in nature, in our urban environment, planting needs to be performed carefully and correctly. Simply “sticking a tree in the ground and leaving it to grow” will, more often than not, prevent the tree from flourishing or even surviving. The care a tree receives during its first few years in the ground determines the health and longevity it will have decades later.

Planting Methods for Different Types of Tree

How your tree was grown at the nursery and delivered to you dictates the best methods to follow while planting. The most common ways that trees are sold are bare root, ball and burlap, and in a container.

Planting a Bare Root Tree

  • Bare root trees can have some of the best long-term results after planting, but need delicate handling.
    • They are often shipped in groups, tied together, with a hydrating wrap around the root systems.
    • It is imperative that the roots be kept moist until the tree is in the ground; do not remove the root wrap until ready to plant.
  • Because the roots are loose, they are easy to untangle.
    • When you are ready to plant, gently separate the individual root strands, being careful not to break the small root fibers.
    • Do not remove or prune any of the roots.
  • Bare root trees should be planted in a hole at least three times the diameter of the spread out roots.
    • The hole should not be too deep; the root flare, where the trunk ends and the roots begin, should be planted about just above ground level.
    • When digging the hole, especially in clay soil, avoid smoothing the sides and bottom of the hole too much, as that may prevent water flow.
    • Make a small cone of earth in the center of the hole,on which the tree can be placed, with the roots splayed out around it.

Planting a Ball and Burlap Tree

  • Burlapped trees have been grown from seedlings; once large enough, they are dug up and the root ball is wrapped.
  • Burlapped trees are best planted as soon as possible.
    • They may be kept out of the ground for a short period as long as the burlap and root ball is kept moist.
  • Always carry or move a burlapped tree by the root ball, not by the trunk.
    • Lifting from the trunk can stress or damage the tree.
  • When you are ready to plant, remove the cloth wrap completely.
    • Also remove any staking materials, twine, or wire.
  • Make sure the hole is at least three times the diameter of the root ball.
    • The hole only needs to be deep enough so that the top of the root ball is just above ground level.

Planting A Container-Grown Tree

  • Container trees are the most common type seen at nurseries and in city programs.
    • They are often sold by the “gallon,” which specified the size of the container.
  • Container trees can be kept out of the ground for a while if the soil is kept moist.
    • Be sure to keep the unplanted trees in a shady area so they do not overheat or dry out.
  • Because of the carefully-managed growing conditions, container trees need particular care when planting.
  • As with burlapped trees, always move a container tree by the container, not the trunk.
    • If the soil is dry, pulling from the trunk may remove the tree from the container.
  • Container-grown trees are especially susceptible to root binding.
    • When you are ready to plant, remove the root ball from the container and examine it carefully.
    • Unwrap any roots that are encircling the root ball; if there are larger roots that cannot be moved, they can be cut.
    • Using the back of a shovel or your shoe, press down on the sides of the root ball, as you roll it over on the ground.
      • The goal is to loosen the compaction that occurs over time in the container.
    • If you have a small garden fork, brush out the root strands to straighten them.
      • Be careful not to tear or break the major root fibers.
    • While it can be overly time-consuming to straighten out all the roots, any steps taken at this point will greatly benefit the tree, especially during the first few years in the ground.
  • Container-grown trees should be planted in a hole three times the diameter of the container.
    • Make the depth of the hole shallow enough to allow the top of the root ball or root flare to sit just above ground level.
    • If a great deal of the roots have been straightened out, you may need to make a small mound, as with bare root trees.
      • Evenly spread out any loose roots pointing away from the tree.

Backfilling the Hole

When replacing the soil around your newly-planted tree, be sure not to compress the soil too much. Adding the soil in stages, and heavily watering the soil, rather than tamping it down, between rounds can greatly help with soil stability while avoiding compaction. Only fill the hole up to just below the root flare.

Proper Mulching

Mulching is key when planting a young tree, especially with the North Texas climate. We have previously talked about proper mulching techniques, but the main things to keep in mind are:

  • Mulch around the tree to a radius of two to three feet from the trunk.
    • Spread about three to four inches deep of mulch.
  • Leave a space of at least three inches between the mulch and the trunk itself.
    • Do not pile mulch up against the tree.
  • In the summer, or when water retention is a concern, make a small, raised ring around the outer edge of the mulch circle.
    • In winter, or during wet periods, you can simply spread the mulch flat.

Should A New Tree Be Staked?

With a properly-planted tree, staking should not be necessary. Be sure to remove any nursery-installed stakes or wires after the tree is planted. If you are in a high-wind area, or there is concern about damage to the tree from activity, a stake may help keep the tree upright and preserve the area. If you do choose to stake your tree, remove the stake after a year. Stakes left in place too long can prevent a tree from developing properly.

How Do I Water My New Tree?

Newly-planted trees need a lot of water, especially during the summer or dry periods. See our previous watering guide for more tips, but plan to water at least once a week during the fall, winter and spring, and twice a week during the summer. Use a soaker hose, running for an hour, or a garden hose on low for 15 minutes. Be sure to water the entire area evenly, and stop if water starts pooling or gathering on the surface.

Next Steps for Your New Tree

Even if they are planted, watered, and mulched properly, new trees may need some extra help. There are soil amendments, such as mycorrhizal fungi, that can be added to the roots when planting to help with water uptake. After planting, mulch and compost are an integral part of maintaining soil health. Seasonal fertilization and other soil amendments are always a good idea for young trees, especially in our urban soils. Consult a certified arborist to get recommendations on what will best help your new tree.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees, old and new, and we love our customers! While we don’t plant trees ourselves, we are eager to help educate our community to help homeowners plant their new trees. Following the storms of 2019, we will need massive replanting efforts to repopulate our urban forest, and those efforts start with individuals planting single trees. We hope this guide has been helpful; visit the Texas A&M Forest Service Texas Tree Planting Guide  for more info on planting trees in Texas. As always, if you have any questions about your new trees, your established trees, or how you can help our urban forest, let us know!