Archives 2019

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: Why Do My Red Tip Photinias Have Spots on the Leaves?

Another installment in our series of posts where Texas Tree Surgeons answers your tree questions. Are you having problems with your trees and want to know what’s wrong? Let us know!

Dear Texas Tree Surgeons,

A lot of my bushes, especially the red tip photinias, are starting to wilt and have reddish-brown spots on their leaves. What can I do about that?

Red Tip Photinias have long been a staple of North Texas flowerbeds and hedgerows. Hardy and fast-growing, the evergreen shrub can be trimmed to various heights and forms a good privacy barrier with its broad leaves. New growth has red leaves, giving the red tip photinia its name. Unfortunately, red tip photinias are particularly susceptible to leaf spot diseases.

This fungus Entomosporium mespili causes leaf spot on all members of the rose family, including red tip photinias. Starting as a red, brown, or black dot on leaves, the leaf spot expands outward as the fungus grows. Eventually, the red spots turn into a gray area rimmed by red. As the fungus spreads, it disrupts vascular function in the leaves, which eventually fall. The fallen leaves collect moisture at the base of the shrub, increasing fungal growth. As wet conditions continue, the fungus can spread its spores within water droplets, such as splashing from rain or irrigation. Left unaddressed, the fungus will spread throughout the photinias, causing wilting and dieback.

Environmental control

The first line of defense against fungal leaf spot, as with many fungal diseases, is to monitor watering and drainage. Fungi thrive in wet conditions of a moderate temperature, so the spring and fall are when we see the most activity. In periods of wet weather, the clay soil common to much of North Texas can hamper proper drainage, causing the area around the red tip photinias to become waterlogged. This moisture, mixed with the fallen and decaying organic material creates the ideal conditions for fungal growth. Even if the soil drainage cannot be improved, it is important to curtail watering so as not to make the situation worse.

In addition to moisture, the fallen photinia leaves contribute to the growth of the Entomosporium fungus. Keeping the area around the plants clear of debris can help slow fungal progression. In a similar way, dense foliar growth on the interior of the red tip photinias can collect moisture. Where possible, thin out dense areas to allow light and air to circulate. When trimming, make sure to remove any areas already showing leaf spot. Removed material, especially infected leaves, should be buried or disposed of in a plastic bag.

Chemical Control

Fungicides can be used to control Entomosporium leaf spot, but the process can be costly. Furthermore, treatment will be ultimately ineffective if the environmental factors are not eliminated. For valuable hedges, a continuous process of multiple-week treatments in the spring and fall may be recommended. In other situations, it can often be more cost-effective and better in the long-term to remove the affected plants and replace with a less-susceptible species. 

While there is no quick solution for red tip photinia leaf spot, we hope this information can help homeowners mitigate the damage to their shrubs, and decide if treatment or removal might be warranted. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs! and hedges!) and we love our customers, and we always want to give our community the best, most accurate information regarding their plants. If you would like one of our arborists to come out and see how your photinias, or anything else, are doing, let us know!

Is There a Difference Between Tree Trimming, Tree Cutting, and Tree Pruning?

When people talk about tree care, they can use different words to talk about the same thing. You may hear “trim,” “prune,” or “cut,” just as you may hear “limb” or “branch.” At Texas Tree Surgeons, we are often asked the difference between a branch and a limb, or between tree pruning and tree cutting. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard definition for many common terms, and that can cause confusion.

A NOTE

If you visit our Facebook page, you may notice that we are categorized as a “tree cutting” business. In other places, we may be listed as “landscaping services.” Unfortunately, because there is no universal standard term for what we do, we have to find the best fit under the circumstances. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we use the term “tree trimming” to refer to the work we do.

Proper Tree Trimming Is the Key to Healthy Trees

Proper tree trimming should remove any dead or broken branches, raise the canopy and thin the crown, to allow light and air to pass freely through the tree.

Trees are living organisms, and every cut that’s made on a tree has long-term effects. Additionally, every tree is unique and has different needs dictated by its environment and history. A heavy trim may have no adverse effects on a large, healthy tree, but a tree that is under pre-existing stress or has a potential for health issues might be irreparably damaged by removing too much canopy. Furthermore, safety and stability issues may restrict the amount and type of trimming that can be performed. It is important when trimming trees to take all of these factors into account, as well as to be mindful of the weather and seasons. Improperly trimming a tree at the wrong type of year can lead to severe decline and death. 

While there are no universal standards for tree trimming, there are two sets of guidelines for the tree service industry that we at Texas Tree Surgeons follow. The first is from the International Society of Arboriculture, or ISA. The ISA is the premier international credentialing and membership organization for the tree care industry. In addition to establishing the Certified Arborist and Board Certified Master Arborist credentials, the ISA provides a wealth of resources for tree owners. The ISA guide to tree trimming (they use the term “pruning”) covers the basics of how to properly maintain mature trees. In addition to the ISA, the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA) oversees tree service providers in the United States. In collaboration with the American National Safety Institute (ANSI), the TCIA has developed comprehensive guidelines for tree care and management. These guidelines provide the basis for all of our work proposals and trimming. Adherence to these guidelines is the best way to care for trees of all kinds, and all our certified arborists are equipped to assess individual trees and determine the best — and healthiest — way to care for them. 

Trimming visible growth is only part of tree care. Without a proper understanding of what’s happening below the ground and underneath the bark, a beautiful trim is of little use. Certified Arborists are trained to spot the signs of environmental stressors, diseases, and insects. Poor drainage and soil condition, competition with turf grass, and proximity to structures can all affect a tree’s growth. Beyond just trimming a tree, certified arborists are able to evaluate the tree holistically in order to provide the best care possible. 

Whether It’s “Tree Trimming” or “Tree Cutting,” Cheaper Isn’t Always Better

Most neighborhoods, especially after storms, will see tree trimmers going door-to-door soliciting work. While it may seem easier, and is often cheaper, to hire these crews for tree work, it is important to consider the long-term costs and complications. Tree trimmers with only a small crew and one truck may have lower overhead, but they may also have insufficient insurance to cover any incidents. Furthermore, these crews may not have the training or experience to properly trim trees. We have seen numerous large trees “lion-tailed,” or even “topped,” with all the canopy removed! While the trees may recover, they are forever changed. Professional arborists know the proper way to trim and thin trees for light, without leaving stubbed limbs and unstable trunks.

Many people are surprised that a proper and healthy tree trim often removes less than they expect. According to established guidelines, it is best to remove no more than 25% of the visible canopy. A regular trim may only remove as little as 15%, removing mostly interior growth. In addition to being more precise, proper trims may take longer or be more labor-intensive, accounting for cost differences. Some companies use terms like “Level 1” or “Level 2” trim; these terms are not universal. If you don’t understand what something means, ask! At Texas Tree Surgeons, we are always happy to explain the details of our work, and your arborist is always available, before, during, and after the job is done.

“Topping” a tree, or removing all visible canopy, does serious harm to the natural growth of the tree and can cause long-lasting damage.

Ultimately, what is important is the tree care itself, not what it is called. To give your trees the best chance to grow and thrive, look for tree trimming companies that employ certified arborists. If you have any doubts, ask for their certification number, or look for the arborist’s name on the ISA website. A properly-trained arborist should never recommend topping or lion-tailing, and should take proper precautions during oak wilt season (February-July). Never be afraid to get a second opinion. Give us a call anytime, and we are happy to have a certified arborist come out and discuss what work needs to be done and provide a free quote!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that educating our community lays the best foundation for caring for our urban forest. If you have any tree questions don’t hesitate to get in touch!

A Master Arborist’s Top 10 Ornamental Trees [UPDATED]

It looks like spring is finally here, and many homeowners are heading back out to their gardens and lawns to get them ready for summer. While spring is a great time to renew mulch and fertilize your trees, many people are also looking to freshen up their outdoor areas by planting new decorative shrubs and trees. 

Choosing the right decorative or ornamental tree for your yard can seem overwhelming; there are many different types available in our area. Some species, however, are more suited to our climate and soil, and taking a little knowledge with you on your trip to the nursery can go a long way toward planting a tree that will thrive. 

With that in mind, Texas Tree Surgeons has put together a list of our Top Ten Decorative Trees for North Texas, curated by our owner and ISA Board Certified Master Arborist Amy Langbein Heath.

Crape Myrtle

Let’s start with a Southern classic, the crape myrtle. Different types of crape myrtles come with various flower colors, from hot pink to lavender. Crape myrtles also have a variety of trunk colors and can range in height. Some crape myrtles are actual trees and other varieties are considered a shrub. They are a popular North Texas tree because they enjoy full sun and require moderate water and little maintenance. This tree is fast growing and due to the gorgeous blooms it produces in the summer is a great tree to plant multiples for a border. For more information on crape myrtles, see our recent post.

Purple Leaf Plum

Nothing says spring in North Texas like purple leaf plum trees in bloom. As you drive around North Texas, you can spot and identify their beautiful flowers in pink or white. Purple leaf plum makes for a beautiful ornamental tree. It has a single trunk and purple or reddish leaves all year round, so it looks great in landscaping when it’s not in bloom, too. The tree requires full or partial shade and needs an area of about 20 x 20 feet to take root and grow properly. Like the crape myrtle, it requires moderate water. It is also a great bee attractor and grows one to two feet a year.

Texas Mountain Laurel

Texas mountain laurel is another showstopper, especially when in bloom. Not much seems to bother this drought-tolerant beauty. A hard freeze might eliminate blooms one year but it won’t kill it. Texas mountain laurel requires good drainage and the trees are happy growing among rocks and limestone in other parts of Texas. This small tree looks more like a large shrub. It prefers full or partial sun and needs approximately 20 feet to grow. It is slow growing.  It is green all year and in March, when it is in full bloom with gorgeous purple blossoms, it puts out a delicious scent reminiscent of grape bubblegum. It is a kid favorite, but beware the silvery pods it puts out in late summer. The pods hold a red bean that can be poisonous in large amounts.

Vitex

Another purple showstopper is the Texas vitex, also known as a Texas lilac. Vitex generally appears more like a shrub or small tree with a large top. It is drought-tolerant which makes it perfect for xeriscaping, and is happy in direct sun. When in bloom, May through September, vitex showcases spiky blooms of lavender flowers. It also produces sporadically throughout the fall. Vitex needs 15 x 10 feet to grow properly. It is deciduous and loses its leaves in the winter. Vitex is also known for its ability to attract bees and butterflies.

Eve’s Necklace

A relative of mountain laurel, Eve’s necklace is another decorative tree favorite. Eve’s necklace is a small tree with lustrous green leaves. Come springtime you can expect a delicate canopy and pink flowers that hang in beautiful clusters. Like its cousin the mountain laurel, it produces pods in late summer into fall that resemble a string of beads, giving it its name eve’s necklace. The seeds are reportedly poisonous. Eve’s necklace can grow in direct sun or in light shade. It is easy to grow and takes low water.

RedBud

When we say “redbud,” we usually mean the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), but there are two other cultivars, Texas redbud and Mexican redbud, that are also common. All three varieties have heart-shaped leaves and pink/purple blossoms. The redbud is a relatively small tree. It has a short trunk, spreading branches and can grow to about 20 feet tall. It is often added to gardens and houses because it is one of the season’s earliest flowering trees and adds a lot of color with its burst of pinkish/purplish flowers. The redbud’s green leaves, stunning blossoms, and seed pods make it a beautiful decorative tree choice all year round. The redbud does best in full sun or light shade and the Mexican and Texas varieties are drought-tolerant.

Flowering Dogwood

Flowering dogwoods are a much-loved feature of gardens both in East Texas and the DFW Area. Dogwoods generally exhibit white blooms, but may also show pink or other colors. They bloom for 3-4 weeks in the springtime, and looks particularly spectacular during that time, but are a great decorative choice all year long. Fall brings crimson foliage, giving way to red berries in the winter. In their natural environment, dogwoods are understory trees, protected and surrounded by other trees. Because of this, flowering dogwoods prefer at least partial shade to thrive.

Yaupon Holly

Yaupon holly is a versatile, multi-trunk shrub or small tree. Yaupon can be trimmed into a hedge or left to grow as an individual tree, making it a popular choice for residential and commercial landscaping. A hardy evergreen, yaupons produce small white flowers in the spring and the female plants produce bright red berries that stay until fall. Yaupons are drought-tolerant and can reach a height of 25 or 30 feet. The dense foliage and berries are attractive to birds throughout the year. Additionally, the yaupon is the only caffeine-containing plant that is native to North America. The leaves can be dried and used for tea!

Japanese Maple

A graceful and elegant addition to the right landscape, the Japanese Maple is a local favorite for good reason. There are numerous varieties available, with foliage in a range of colors. Japanese maples start out with green leaves in the spring, which quickly mature into shades of red and ochre. These medium-sized ornamentals love the shade and thrive under larger plants or shaded by houses. One of the common issues we see with Japanese maples is too much sun, but if you have space in the shade, they can be a welcome addition.

Desert Willow

Looking for a low-maintenance, full sun, drought-tolerant tree? Meet the desert willow. The small tree or large shrub has a spreading crown with willow-like light green leaves. In the mid-summer, these have fragrant, pink flowers that form in clusters at the tip of the branches. This native tree can withstand the heat of our North Texas summers and its flowers are a great hummingbird and bee attractor!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! While we don’t plant trees ourselves, we are always happy to give recommendations to help you find the perfect tree for your yard. Contact us online or give us a call and we’ll see what we can do to help!

Storms and Trees – Quick Tips!

As we prepare for storm season, Texas Tree Surgeons has a few tips for taking the best care of your trees. Let us know if you have questions or need us to come out to assess your trees!

Consult a Certified Arborist to Assess Any Storm Damage

Storms, especially ones with high winds and hail, can cause extensive damage to trees. After the storm, it is important to remove any damaged or fallen limbs, and to clean up the wounds from damage. If the tree is at risk for oak wilt or other diseases, it is critical to clean up wounds and seal cuts. See our post on storm damage.

Water and Fertilize After the Storms Have Passed

After any flooding has receeded, and the ground returns to its usual moisture levels, it is important to begin a water regimen for damaged trees. Damage to tree tissue can reduce the tree’s ability to pull water and nutrients from the soil. Additionally, consider fertilizer to increase availability of nutrients in the soil.

Special Note About Hail

Hail can defoliate trees and cause damage to the outer layers of tree bark. The loss of leaves and damage to vascular tissue can severely limit the tree’s ability to use nutrients. Healthy trees can recover, but trees with underlying issues or stressors may have a hard time bouncing back.

Watch for Signs of Stress

Just like after construction, it can take weeks or months for trees to show signs of stress from storm damage. Yellowing leaves, dieback, and limb discoloration are some signs of stress. If you see any of these signs, or have any other questions about your tree’s health, consult a certified arborist.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we want to help our beautiful North Texas trees weather any storms that may come. As always, let us know if you have any questions or would like a visit from a certified arborist — storm damage or not.

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

Is mulch really that important? As discussed in our article on proper mulching, there is a big difference between urban soil and trees’ natural habitat. Mulching can greatly improve the quality of soil around a tree, but it is not always possible to properly mulch around every tree. In those cases, or when faster results are desired, fertilizers can be used to increase the nutrient content of soil to better enable a tree to thrive.

Why Do My Trees Need Fertilizer?

For most of North Texas, our urban soil is a dark-gray or black alkaline clay. This type of soil is prone to compaction, and often cracks during long dry spells. Furthermore, much of the area sits on relatively shallow limestone bedrock. These conditions create a high competition for nutrients in the top layer of soil, as roots may be unable to grow deeper due to compaction and rock.

A note about tree roots:

Generally, tree roots serve two main functions: absorbing nutrients and providing stability. The stabilizing roots are the ones people most often think of, as they are usually larger than the feeding roots and can grow deep into the ground. The feeding roots, on the other hand, are finer and are primarily located in the top several inches of soil, where the most nutrients are usually found. So, when providing nutrients to a tree, it is critical to fertilize the shallow feeding roots, and less so to reach the deeper stabilizing root system.

Proper mulching and using compost to improve the soil condition are key to providing trees with an environment in which they can thrive. Most trees and shrubs would also benefit from fertilization, especially when in competition with turf grass, or when there is inorganic material surrounding a tree that prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

What is the Best Way to Fertilize Trees?

While all fertilizers need water to be activated and be absorbed by plants, they may come in a liquid or solid form and may be applied to the soil surface, underneath the soil, to the leaves or of a tree, or even injected directly into the trunk.

For surface application, the area around the trunk is heavily saturated with fertilizer solution (a “basal drench” or “root drench”). This allows the fertilizer to reach the main nutrient-absorbing roots of the tree, which usually are in the top several inches of soil. This is one of the methods we use at Texas Tree Surgeons. However, a soil drench may not be effective when there is turf or ground cover around a tree, and subsurface application may be necessary (see below).

Liquid fertilizers can also be injected into the soil using a pressurized system that pierces through groundcover and turf, a technique often called “deep root” fertilization. Injection is the preferred method for fertilizing trees when they are surrounded by turf grass or another ground cover. The high-pressure feeder rod pierces below surface roots and injects fertilizer solution a few inches below the ground, where there is less competition, and the tree can more easily access the nutrients. Also, the high pressure used can help aerate areas of compaction, improving overall soil quality. At Texas Tree Surgeons we use deep-root fertilization when a tree is closely surrounded by turf grass or other material that prevents the roots of the tree from reaching the soil surface.

A feeder rod is used to inject fertilizer in the root zone of a tree.

A note about synthetic turf:

The use of synthetic turf around a tree can prevent proper soil development and make fertilizer difficult to apply. Usually, the synthetic turf needs to be pulled back from the root zone of the tree to allow for a soil drench, or the deep-root feeder rod will have to puncture through the turf and any substrate to reach the real soil. Additionally, synthetic turf can have lasting negative effects on trees, as the material prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

In certain cases, direct application of a liquid fertilizer to a tree might be used. Using a foliar spray can make nutrients immediately available to leaves to aid photosynthesis. Trunk injections can introduce nutrients directly into the tree’s vascular system, bypassing the roots. These two methods are not long-term solutions, however, as they do nothing to improve soil quality. Once the applied fertilizer has been utilized, the tree will return to its previous state if a consistent supply of nutrients is not provided.

What Kind of Fertilizer is Best for Trees?

While there are many commercially-available fertilizers, they are not all equally effective, and care should be taken before applying. Fertilizers engineered for turf grass development may not help trees, and may, in fact, harm them. So-called “weed and feed” fertilizers contain herbicides that can target woody-stem plants. If applied in the root zone of a tree or shrub, these herbicides can cause stress or even dieback.

Subsurface application of dry fertilizers, including the use of fertilizer spikes, is usually inadvisable. Even when properly watered, pockets of fertilizer material or spikes do not readily break down, and cannot effectively move through the soil. As a result, the soil develops areas of high chemical concentration surrounded by areas that lack nutrients. This chemical imbalance can lead to severe fertilizer burn and can cause more harm than good.

Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizer

Inorganic fertilizer is a solid or liquid product that is chemically formulated to add specific concentrations of nutrients to the soil. Inorganic fertilizers are generally labeled with three numbers (called “NPK” numbers), which indicate the relative content of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, in that order. Inorganic fertilizers are used for their consistency and because they generally contain higher concentrations of NPK macronutrients than organic materials. However, because of the high percentages of certain chemicals, inorganic fertilizers are more likely to cause “fertilizer burn” because of over-saturation of a particular element. Furthermore, runoff from chemical fertilizers can contaminate water and pose a hazard to wildlife. Before using an inorganic fertilizer, it is important to understand exactly what the soil needs, and apply the appropriate amount. Soil testing, such as provided by Texas A&M, can give a guideline for selecting an inorganic fertilizer that is suited to a particular situation.

Organic fertilizers are composed of natural organic matter. While mulch and compost can be considered organic fertilizers, the term usually refers to a solid or liquid that is produced to be a soil amendment. Compost tea, bone meal, manure, and biosolids are common examples of organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers can contain both macronutrients (usually nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, or “NPK”) and micronutrients, but the concentrations of these nutrients are not always specified on the label. Additionally, some organic fertilizers may contain helpful microorganisms (such as bacteria and fungi) that can further enhance soil quality. Because organic fertilizers are produced through natural processes, they generally have lower NPK concentrations than inorganic. As a result, organic fertilizers are less likely to cause fertilizer burn and do not pose the same risk to the environment as inorganics.

A note about compost:

Compost is partially-decomposed organic material that is added to soil to increase nutrient concentration. Like mulch, compost can improve overall soil composition, unlike fertilizers, which generally help plants, but do not have long-term effects on soil quality. Compost and mulch can be combined with soil amendments like fertilizers to help plants in the short-term and improve the soil over time. If you live in an urban area and don’t have the time or space to compost yourself, consider using a compost co-op. If you are in the Dallas area, we recommend Turn Compost. Check out their website to see if they service your neighborhood!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we have three distinct fertilizer and soil amendment formulations that are applied in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. Each seasonal treatment is designed to give trees the nutrients they need at each stage of the growing season. We can also add specific micronutrients (such as iron) for particular trees. Contact one of our certified arborists to get an estimate for a year-round fertilization program!

Crape Myrtles: Facts and Guides

Crape myrtles (also crepe myrtles), seen by many as something between a bush and a tree, are often misunderstood and, as a result, not well cared for. Properly maintained, however, the crape myrtle, a beautiful and hardy flowering tree, can be a striking addition to a landscape.

Although native to South Asia, crape myrtles have been cultivated in North America since the 18th century. Naturally a multi-stemmed bush, the crape myrtle has been bred into many different species and subspecies, each with its own unique characteristics. The species most commonly found in North Texas is Lagerstroemia indica, which can flower in a range of colors. Left to grow, this species of crape myrtle can reach a height of about 20 feet, with a spread of about 20 feet as well. Other varieties of crape myrtle may exhibit different growing patterns and sizes at maturity.

Basic Care for Crape Myrtles

The crape myrtle is prized for its hardiness, low maintenance, and colorful blooms. Crape myrtles can thrive in many types of soil, such as the alkaline, dark clay that is present in much of North Texas. Crape myrtles are also drought resistant, although they can be susceptible to over-watering or poor drainage.

Aside from proper trimming and removal of dead plant matter from crevices between the trunks, crape myrtles can often benefit from fertilization, and may need professional care when common health issues arise. Fortunately, few of the common crape myrtle health issues pose a serious threat to the survival of the tree. Attentive pruning is often all that is required to keep a crape myrtles healthy and vigorous for decades.

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers, line trimmers, and other activity. Planting ground cover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Common Crape Myrtle Issues

Topping

What the crape myrtle meme

This is a common practice in North Texas that leads to twiggy new growth from the ends of the trunks, and doesn’t help create more blooms.

Topping is bad, and we have a dedicated blog on this topic.

Physical Damage

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers and other tools. Planting groundcover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

The crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is the most common crape myrtle pest. This tiny insect feeds on the sap of the crape myrtle and produces a liquid called honeydew, that can often be observed dripping from crape myrtles in the spring. While the aphids generally pose no serious threat to the health of the plant, their honeydew can lead to the growth of sooty mold (see below). Aphids can be controlled with systemic treatments or insecticidal soaps.

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is the name given to several different species of fungi that grow on the surface of some plants. When crape myrtles have aphid or scale infestations, the honeydew produced by the insects provides nourishment for the fungal spores to grow. As the gray fungal mat expands, it can cover leaves and branches. Sooty mold is mostly just an unsightly cosmetic affliction, but in extreme cases can interfere with proper photosynthesis in the leaves. The best way to control sooty mold is to manage the underlying insect activity and honeydew production. As the mold dies, it will be washed away by rain.

Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

While the crape myrtle aphid has likely been present with the tree since it arrived in North America, issues with scale insects have only recently arisen in crape myrtles. Crape myrtle bark scale (“CMBS,” Eriococcus lagerstroemia) was first identified in Texas in 2004, and is now a common pest. CMBS is a miniscule insect that appears as a felt-like gray or white crust on crape myrtle branches, often on the underside away from the sun. When pressed or scraped, CMBS leaves behind a pinkish residue. While research is still ongoing, systemic insecticides (neonictinoids) are currently the most effective control for CMBS. Additionally, washing the affected areas with a solution of mild detergent and water can remove the insects, and slow their spread.

Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.
Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another fungus (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) that affects crape myrtles. Unlike sooty mold, however, powdery mildew can pose a greater risk to the health of the plant. Powdery mildew appears as a grayish-white growth on young plant tissue. Only a few spores are needed, often transmitted by the wind, to take hold and begin an infestation on a crape myrtle. Cooler temperatures and moderate to high humidity are the idea growing conditions for powdery mildew, so it is most active in the spring and fall. Overwatering, overfertilization, and poor air circulation can contribute a crape myrtle’s susceptibility to the fungus. As the fungus spreads, it can cause new affected growth to die, with leaves curling and dropping. Extreme cases can cause extensive damage. Fortunately, there are several powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of crape myrtle. Even without a natural resistance, powdery mildew can be managed or prevented by allowing crape myrtles to receive full sun, by proper pruning for light and air flow, and by following best practices for watering and fertilizing. Growth that is affected by the powdery mildew fungus should be removed in the fall. Generally, systemic fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew. However, a certified arborist can properly diagnose the extent of a powdery mildew infection, and provide appropriate treatment recommendations.

Crape myrtles are a beautiful and important part of our North Texas urban forest. While officially the Texas State “Shrub,” crape myrtles are versatile trees that come in many sizes and varieties. We hope this information will help our community better understand and care for their crape myrtles. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs!), and we love our customers. As always, let us know if you have any questions about your crape myrtles, or any other trees.