All posts by Texas Tree Surgeons

Storms and Trees – Quick Tips!

by Texas Tree Surgeons Extreme Weather, Resources, Tree Health Care

As we prepare for storm season, Texas Tree Surgeons has a few tips for taking the best care of your trees. Let us know if you have questions or need us to come out to assess your trees!

Consult a Certified Arborist to Assess Any Storm Damage

Storms, especially ones with high winds and hail, can cause extensive damage to trees. After the storm, it is important to remove any damaged or fallen limbs, and to clean up the wounds from damage. If the tree is at risk for oak wilt or other diseases, it is critical to clean up wounds and seal cuts. See our post on storm damage.

Water and Fertilize After the Storms Have Passed

After any flooding has receeded, and the ground returns to its usual moisture levels, it is important to begin a water regimen for damaged trees. Damage to tree tissue can reduce the tree’s ability to pull water and nutrients from the soil. Additionally, consider fertilizer to increase availability of nutrients in the soil.

Special Note About Hail

Hail can defoliate trees and cause damage to the outer layers of tree bark. The loss of leaves and damage to vascular tissue can severely limit the tree’s ability to use nutrients. Healthy trees can recover, but trees with underlying issues or stressors may have a hard time bouncing back.

Watch for Signs of Stress

Just like after construction, it can take weeks or months for trees to show signs of stress from storm damage. Yellowing leaves, dieback, and limb discoloration are some signs of stress. If you see any of these signs, or have any other questions about your tree’s health, consult a certified arborist.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we want to help our beautiful North Texas trees weather any storms that may come. As always, let us know if you have any questions or would like a visit from a certified arborist — storm damage or not.

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Tree Health Care

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

Is mulch really that important? As discussed in our article on proper mulching, there is a big difference between urban soil and trees’ natural habitat. Mulching can greatly improve the quality of soil around a tree, but it is not always possible to properly mulch around every tree. In those cases, or when faster results are desired, fertilizers can be used to increase the nutrient content of soil to better enable a tree to thrive.

Why Do My Trees Need Fertilizer?

For most of North Texas, our urban soil is a dark-gray or black alkaline clay. This type of soil is prone to compaction, and often cracks during long dry spells. Furthermore, much of the area sits on relatively shallow limestone bedrock. These conditions create a high competition for nutrients in the top layer of soil, as roots may be unable to grow deeper due to compaction and rock.

A note about tree roots:

Generally, tree roots serve two main functions: absorbing nutrients and providing stability. The stabilizing roots are the ones people most often think of, as they are usually larger than the feeding roots and can grow deep into the ground. The feeding roots, on the other hand, are finer and are primarily located in the top several inches of soil, where the most nutrients are usually found. So, when providing nutrients to a tree, it is critical to fertilize the shallow feeding roots, and less so to reach the deeper stabilizing root system.

Proper mulching and using compost to improve the soil condition are key to providing trees with an environment in which they can thrive. Most trees and shrubs would also benefit from fertilization, especially when in competition with turf grass, or when there is inorganic material surrounding a tree that prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

What is the Best Way to Fertilize Trees?

While all fertilizers need water to be activated and be absorbed by plants, they may come in a liquid or solid form and may be applied to the soil surface, underneath the soil, to the leaves or of a tree, or even injected directly into the trunk.

For surface application, the area around the trunk is heavily saturated with fertilizer solution (a “basal drench” or “root drench”). This allows the fertilizer to reach the main nutrient-absorbing roots of the tree, which usually are in the top several inches of soil. This is one of the methods we use at Texas Tree Surgeons. However, a soil drench may not be effective when there is turf or ground cover around a tree, and subsurface application may be necessary (see below).

Liquid fertilizers can also be injected into the soil using a pressurized system that pierces through groundcover and turf, a technique often called “deep root” fertilization. Injection is the preferred method for fertilizing trees when they are surrounded by turf grass or another ground cover. The high-pressure feeder rod pierces below surface roots and injects fertilizer solution a few inches below the ground, where there is less competition, and the tree can more easily access the nutrients. Also, the high pressure used can help aerate areas of compaction, improving overall soil quality. At Texas Tree Surgeons we use deep-root fertilization when a tree is closely surrounded by turf grass or other material that prevents the roots of the tree from reaching the soil surface.

A feeder rod is used to inject fertilizer in the root zone of a tree.

A note about synthetic turf:

The use of synthetic turf around a tree can prevent proper soil development and make fertilizer difficult to apply. Usually, the synthetic turf needs to be pulled back from the root zone of the tree to allow for a soil drench, or the deep-root feeder rod will have to puncture through the turf and any substrate to reach the real soil. Additionally, synthetic turf can have lasting negative effects on trees, as the material prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

In certain cases, direct application of a liquid fertilizer to a tree might be used. Using a foliar spray can make nutrients immediately available to leaves to aid photosynthesis. Trunk injections can introduce nutrients directly into the tree’s vascular system, bypassing the roots. These two methods are not long-term solutions, however, as they do nothing to improve soil quality. Once the applied fertilizer has been utilized, the tree will return to its previous state if a consistent supply of nutrients is not provided.

What Kind of Fertilizer is Best for Trees?

While there are many commercially-available fertilizers, they are not all equally effective, and care should be taken before applying. Fertilizers engineered for turf grass development may not help trees, and may, in fact, harm them. So-called “weed and feed” fertilizers contain herbicides that can target woody-stem plants. If applied in the root zone of a tree or shrub, these herbicides can cause stress or even dieback.

Subsurface application of dry fertilizers, including the use of fertilizer spikes, is usually inadvisable. Even when properly watered, pockets of fertilizer material or spikes do not readily break down, and cannot effectively move through the soil. As a result, the soil develops areas of high chemical concentration surrounded by areas that lack nutrients. This chemical imbalance can lead to severe fertilizer burn and can cause more harm than good.

Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizer

Inorganic fertilizer is a solid or liquid product that is chemically formulated to add specific concentrations of nutrients to the soil. Inorganic fertilizers are generally labeled with three numbers (called “NPK” numbers), which indicate the relative content of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, in that order. Inorganic fertilizers are used for their consistency and because they generally contain higher concentrations of NPK macronutrients than organic materials. However, because of the high percentages of certain chemicals, inorganic fertilizers are more likely to cause “fertilizer burn” because of over-saturation of a particular element. Furthermore, runoff from chemical fertilizers can contaminate water and pose a hazard to wildlife. Before using an inorganic fertilizer, it is important to understand exactly what the soil needs, and apply the appropriate amount. Soil testing, such as provided by Texas A&M, can give a guideline for selecting an inorganic fertilizer that is suited to a particular situation.

Organic fertilizers are composed of natural organic matter. While mulch and compost can be considered organic fertilizers, the term usually refers to a solid or liquid that is produced to be a soil amendment. Compost tea, bone meal, manure, and biosolids are common examples of organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers can contain both macronutrients (usually nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, or “NPK”) and micronutrients, but the concentrations of these nutrients are not always specified on the label. Additionally, some organic fertilizers may contain helpful microorganisms (such as bacteria and fungi) that can further enhance soil quality. Because organic fertilizers are produced through natural processes, they generally have lower NPK concentrations than inorganic. As a result, organic fertilizers are less likely to cause fertilizer burn and do not pose the same risk to the environment as inorganics.

A note about compost:

Compost is partially-decomposed organic material that is added to soil to increase nutrient concentration. Like mulch, compost can improve overall soil composition, unlike fertilizers, which generally help plants, but do not have long-term effects on soil quality. Compost and mulch can be combined with soil amendments like fertilizers to help plants in the short-term and improve the soil over time. If you live in an urban area and don’t have the time or space to compost yourself, consider using a compost co-op. If you are in the Dallas area, we recommend Turn Compost. Check out their website to see if they service your neighborhood!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we have three distinct fertilizer and soil amendment formulations that are applied in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. Each seasonal treatment is designed to give trees the nutrients they need at each stage of the growing season. We can also add specific micronutrients (such as iron) for particular trees. Contact one of our certified arborists to get an estimate for a year-round fertilization program!

Crape Myrtles: Facts and Guides

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Owner's Guide

Crape myrtles (also crepe myrtles), seen by many as something between a bush and a tree, are often misunderstood and, as a result, not well cared for. Properly maintained, however, the crape myrtle, a beautiful and hardy flowering tree, can be a striking addition to a landscape.

Although native to South Asia, crape myrtles have been cultivated in North America since the 18th century. Naturally a multi-stemmed bush, the crape myrtle has been bred into many different species and subspecies, each with its own unique characteristics. The species most commonly found in North Texas is Lagerstroemia indica, which can flower in a range of colors. Left to grow, this species of crape myrtle can reach a height of about 20 feet, with a spread of about 20 feet as well. Other varieties of crape myrtle may exhibit different growing patterns and sizes at maturity.

Basic Care for Crape Myrtles

The crape myrtle is prized for its hardiness, low maintenance, and colorful blooms. Crape myrtles can thrive in many types of soil, such as the alkaline, dark clay that is present in much of North Texas. Crape myrtles are also drought resistant, although they can be susceptible to over-watering or poor drainage.

Aside from proper trimming and removal of dead plant matter from crevices between the trunks, crape myrtles can often benefit from fertilization, and may need professional care when common health issues arise. Fortunately, few of the common crape myrtle health issues pose a serious threat to the survival of the tree. Attentive pruning is often all that is required to keep a crape myrtles healthy and vigorous for decades.

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers, line trimmers, and other activity. Planting ground cover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Common Crape Myrtle Issues

Topping

What the crape myrtle meme

This is a common practice in North Texas that leads to twiggy new growth from the ends of the trunks, and doesn’t help create more blooms.

Topping is bad, and we have a dedicated blog on this topic.

Physical Damage

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers and other tools. Planting groundcover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

The crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is the most common crape myrtle pest. This tiny insect feeds on the sap of the crape myrtle and produces a liquid called honeydew, that can often be observed dripping from crape myrtles in the spring. While the aphids generally pose no serious threat to the health of the plant, their honeydew can lead to the growth of sooty mold (see below). Aphids can be controlled with systemic treatments or insecticidal soaps.

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is the name given to several different species of fungi that grow on the surface of some plants. When crape myrtles have aphid or scale infestations, the honeydew produced by the insects provides nourishment for the fungal spores to grow. As the gray fungal mat expands, it can cover leaves and branches. Sooty mold is mostly just an unsightly cosmetic affliction, but in extreme cases can interfere with proper photosynthesis in the leaves. The best way to control sooty mold is to manage the underlying insect activity and honeydew production. As the mold dies, it will be washed away by rain.

Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

While the crape myrtle aphid has likely been present with the tree since it arrived in North America, issues with scale insects have only recently arisen in crape myrtles. Crape myrtle bark scale (“CMBS,” Eriococcus lagerstroemia) was first identified in Texas in 2004, and is now a common pest. CMBS is a miniscule insect that appears as a felt-like gray or white crust on crape myrtle branches, often on the underside away from the sun. When pressed or scraped, CMBS leaves behind a pinkish residue. While research is still ongoing, systemic insecticides (neonictinoids) are currently the most effective control for CMBS. Additionally, washing the affected areas with a solution of mild detergent and water can remove the insects, and slow their spread.

Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.
Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another fungus (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) that affects crape myrtles. Unlike sooty mold, however, powdery mildew can pose a greater risk to the health of the plant. Powdery mildew appears as a grayish-white growth on young plant tissue. Only a few spores are needed, often transmitted by the wind, to take hold and begin an infestation on a crape myrtle. Cooler temperatures and moderate to high humidity are the idea growing conditions for powdery mildew, so it is most active in the spring and fall. Overwatering, overfertilization, and poor air circulation can contribute a crape myrtle’s susceptibility to the fungus. As the fungus spreads, it can cause new affected growth to die, with leaves curling and dropping. Extreme cases can cause extensive damage. Fortunately, there are several powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of crape myrtle. Even without a natural resistance, powdery mildew can be managed or prevented by allowing crape myrtles to receive full sun, by proper pruning for light and air flow, and by following best practices for watering and fertilizing. Growth that is affected by the powdery mildew fungus should be removed in the fall. Generally, systemic fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew. However, a certified arborist can properly diagnose the extent of a powdery mildew infection, and provide appropriate treatment recommendations.

Crape myrtles are a beautiful and important part of our North Texas urban forest. While officially the Texas State “Shrub,” crape myrtles are versatile trees that come in many sizes and varieties. We hope this information will help our community better understand and care for their crape myrtles. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs!), and we love our customers. As always, let us know if you have any questions about your crape myrtles, or any other trees.

What is Oak Wilt?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

What is Oak Wilt?

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

Oak wilt, and the precautions that need to be taken to help prevent the spread of this fungal disease, may be the most often talked-about aspect of tree health care in Texas. Throughout the state, tree owners and communities are challenged by the potential devastation to all species of oak tree. In some areas, there are ordinances in place that restrict oak trimming in order to prevent the spread of the disease. Other areas have no formal regulation, and this can lead to a lack of awareness and a potential for widespread infection.

While oak wilt is a serious threat to our North Texas urban forest, there are simple steps that everyone can take to lessen its impact.

What kind of Disease is oak wilt?

Oak wilt is an infectious disease caused by a fungus (Bretziella fagacearum*). All oaks (genus Quercus) are susceptible to oak wilt, but different species may react differently to the fungus. Oak wilt is a vascular disease, and infects the whole tree, even if only one part is symptomatic. As the fungus spread through the tree, it blocks the transmission of nutrients to the canopy, causing the characteristic “wilt,” or dieback.

In live oaks, infected leaves often show yellow-brown veins, even while still on the tree. In red oaks, leaves may simply wilt and brown. This process can lead to an autumn-like coloration during the summer. Additionally, fungal mats may form underneath the bark of red oaks, leading to cracking, peeling bark and a rotting smell.

While visual inspection is a strong indicator of the presence of the oak wilt fungus, laboratory confirmation may be required. The Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory offers testing for oak wilt and many other diseases. For more information on how to submit a sample, see this post or contact your arborist.

Live oak leaves showing the venal necrosis characteristic of oak wilt

How do trees get oak wilt?

The most common ways for the oak wilt fungus to be transmitted are by insect activity and root grafting. Insects can infect a tree through any exposed wood (not covered by bark) or open wound (such as a pruning cut, broken limb, or where branches rub against each other). In situations with oaks planted in close proximity, the fungus can be transmitted from one tree to another via underground root grafting. As roots make contact with other roots, they grow together and share pathogens.

Different species of oak can contract and spread oak wilt by different methods.

RED OAKS

Red oaks (Texas, Shumard, blackjack, water) are extremely susceptible to infection through insect activity. Red oaks are often the primary mode by which oak wilt gains a foothold in a new area. The oak wilt fungus thrives in red oaks and creates visible fungal mats underneath the bark. These spore mats attract insects; sap beetles of the Nitidulidae family are the most common type. Beetles feed in the infected area and become covered with particles from the spore mats. Drawn to exposed wood on healthy trees, the beetles transfer the fungal spores, spreading the infection.

LIVE OAKS

In contrast to red oaks, live oaks are susceptible to oak wilt primarily through their root systems. In nature, live oaks often grow in groups, sometimes called motts. Underneath the mott, the root systems of the individual trees become interconnected. This grafting allows not only nutrients to be shared, but pathogens as well. Once a member of the mott has contracted the oak wilt fungus, the infection quickly spreads.

WHITE OAKS

White oaks (post, bur, chinkapin) are more resistant to oak wilt than other species, but are still at risk. Transmission generally occurs through spore transfer by insects, or by human activity.

Can you prevent Oak Wilt?

Oak wilt is an epidemic. Because of the concentration and susceptibility of oaks in Texas, especially red oaks, it can be difficult to isolate centers of infection and prevent further spread. The Texas A&M Forest Service and the Forest Health Protection branch of the U.S. Department of Agriculture have issued some guidelines to help prevent further tree death.

  • Remove and properly dispose of diseased red oaks immediately
    • Chip or bury all tree material
  • Do not transport unseasoned firewood
    • Firewood should be dry, splitting, and the bark should be peeling off
  • Do not store unseasoned oak firewood uncovered
    • Cover tightly with heavy, clear plastic and bury the edges to restrict insect access
  • Do not prune or otherwise wound oak trees from February 1 to July 1
    • The best time to trim is in the fall and winter
  • When infection is a risk, take proper precautions
    • Sterilize tools and paint cuts

If you have healthy oak trees in an area with infected trees, preventative treatment may be effective in slowing transmission. As oak wilt is a systemic, vascular disease, the most effective treatments consist of injecting the infected trees with a fungicidal chemical. The only currently recommended fungicide is Alamo®, a formulation of the fungicide propiconazole. The fungicide is administered through holes drilled in the root flare of the infected tree and should only be applied by Texas Department of Agriculture Licensed Applicators.

For large stands of oak trees, especially live oaks, trenching around the area and severing root connections can limit disease spread, as well.

A typical system for fungicidal injection; each green port is inserted into the living tissue of the tree.

Can you cure Oak Wilt?

There is no known cure for oak wilt. Reported home remedies or substances applied to the exterior of the tree have not be proven to have any remedial effect. If you have a tree that is infected with oak wilt, be sure to consult a Texas Oak Wilt Qualified arborist or your local Texas A&M Agrilife Extension agent to discuss treatment options.

Red oaks usually defoliate and die one to six months after becoming symptomatic. Live oaks may last up to a few years before total necrosis. White oaks show the most resistance to oak wilt and may survive several years after infection.

Fungicidal treatment may prolong the life of infected trees, but cannot eradicate the disease. However, systemic fungicides are most effective if a tree has not lost more than 30% of the crown. Contact a certified arborist to see if your tree may be a good candidate for treatment.

What areas have Oak Wilt?

In North Texas, there are many centers of infection. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we take oak wilt precautions throughout our service area. Still, there are a few neighborhoods in which we have seen particularly bad oak wilt activity:

  • Preston Hollow, Dallas
  • Lakewood, Dallas
  • Walnut Hill and Abrams, Dallas
  • Coit and Campbell, Richardson
  • President George Bush Turnpike and the Tollway, North Dallas
  • Park and US 75 in Plano
  • Highland Park
  • University Park

If you live in one of these areas, or suspect oak wilt activity in your neighborhood, contact your arborist to see what specific preventative steps are recommended for your trees.

Oak wilt is one of the greatest threats to trees in Texas. Education, awareness, and prevention are the best tools we have to protect our urban forest from devastation. If you want to learn more about oak wilt, visit TexasOakWilt.org.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We have several Oak Wilt Qualified arborists on staff; please let us know if you have any questions about oak wilt or any other tree question. We are always happy to help!

* – Until 2017, the oak wilt fungus was identified as Ceratocystis fagacearum.

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: Do I Need to Worry About the Emerald Ash Borer? [UPDATED]

by Texas Tree Surgeons Ask Texas Tree Surgeons, Tree Health Care

 

Another installment in our series of posts where Texas Tree Surgeons answers your tree questions. Are you having problems with your trees and want to know what’s wrong? Let us know!

Dear Texas Tree Surgeons,

I’ve been hearing about the emerald ash borer, and it seems pretty serious; should I be worried?

-J.G.

You may have seen recent media coverage of the discovery of the emerald ash borer (“EAB”) in Texas. The emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is a small, green beetle that feeds on ash trees. Though native to Asia, EAB first appeared in North America in 2002. In 2016, EAB was found in northeast Texas. In July 2017, suspected EAB specimens were found in Tarrant County. In early December 2018, the Texas A&M Forest Service confirmed that several ash trees near Eagle Mountain Lake had been killed by EAB infestation. In May 2020, Texas A&M confirmed presence of EAB in the Denton area.


Ash trees can grow quite large and provide valuable shade.

Ash trees have slender leaves that are often mistaken for pecan leaves.

Ash trees are known for their seeds which drop in the fall, spiraling to the ground.

Ash bark is light brown with vertical ridges.

Should I be Concerned About Emerald Ash Borer?

The threat from EAB is a serious one, as ash trees make up between 5-13% of the DFW urban forest, and are important providers of shade and clean air. If you do have ash trees, however, EAB infestation can be prevented.

Emerald Ash Borer Prevention Tips

  • If there are diseased or damaged ash trees, consider removal before they have a chance to be infested.
  • If there is EAB activity within a few miles, consider preventative systemic insecticide treatment.
  • Keep an eye out for signs of EAB activity:
    • Dead/dying branches in upper crown
    • Shoots/suckers along trunk
    • Splitting bark with insect trails underneath
    • Increased woodpecker activity
    • D-shaped exit holes

Can Emerald Ash Borer be Treated?

Unfortunately, once an ash tree has been infested by EAB, there is little that can be done. Insecticide treatments can help slow the decline of the tree, but once more than 50% of the canopy is gone, treatments are not effective. EAB generally kills infested trees in two to five years.

So, yes, the emerald ash borer is a serious threat to ash trees, but education and awareness now can help mitigate its effects. If you have ash trees, take note of their appearance, and contact your arborist if you see any signs of decline. If you don’t have any ash trees, you do not need to worry about EAB at all.

For more information on EAB, visit the Texas A&M Forest Service. For help identifying your trees, visit Trees of Texas.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! The spread of emerald ash borer, while a threat to a small percentage of North Texas trees, is a threat that we can all help to fight against. If you have ash trees or know someone who does, let us know, and one of our ISA Certified Arborists will be happy to evaluate the trees for EAB risk factors and provide options to keep them safe and healthy.

How Do I Find Out What Disease My Tree Has?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

While many plant and tree diseases are commonly seen and can be accurately diagnosed by visual inspection, there are cases where further testing is required. In Texas, the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service runs the Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory, which is tasked with analyzing plant samples sent in from all over the state. When there is a question as to the particular pathogen affecting a tree, or when further treatment recommendations are needed, we advise our customers to submit a sample to the TPDDL.

The process of sample submission can appear daunting at first, but is actually fairly simple. There are three main steps:

  1. Collecting a sample
  2. Completing the form
  3. Packaging and shipping

1. Collecting a Sample

When collecting a sample for submission, there are a few guidelines that should be followed. In general, it is important to get a live sample, if possible. Clip off the part of the tree that is showing the worst symptoms, like the ends of branches with leaves attached. If there is a potential for root contamination, dig up a few small roots from near the tree trunk, along with some of the surrounding soil. For fruiting or flowering trees, be sure to get some not-yet-fallen blossoms or fruit, if they are showing signs of an issue, as well.

Certain diseases, such as Oak Wilt or Dutch Elm Disease, require specific sample types. The TPDDL submission form has instructions for these cases. 

2. Completing the Form

Filling out a form may not seem like a challenge, but for those unfamiliar with the TPDDL diagnostic process, there may be some information that needs to be gathered beforehand. Additionally, we have a few tips and recommendations to avoid confusion and get the most benefit out of the TPDDL analysis.

Click here to download a copy of the form as a PDF. There are instructions on the second page, and some helpful descriptions below.

Submitter Information

This is the contact info for the person actually sending in the form and sample. Make sure to indicate that you are the “Homeowner” or other category at the bottom.

Grower/Sample Location Information

For most tree owners, this will be the same as the Submitter Information. It is extremely important to make sure that the address under this section is where the tree or plant is actually located. An accurate location is essential for disesase tracking.

Result Options

We recommend receiving results via email, as this is the quickest method. If there is a third party, such as your arborist, to whom you would like the results sent, indicate that here.

Sample and Diagnosis Information

This can be one of the most daunting parts of filling out the form. You may not know all the information about your sample. It is important to fill in as much as you do know, so that proper recommendations can be made by the TPDDL.

For help identifying your trees, you can always contact your arborist. If you have a lawn service, ask them to see if they have applied any chemicals near the affected tree. Be sure to indicate watering practices, as well.

It is a good idea to send a copy of your results to your county AgriLife Extension Agent. This person is tasked with tracking plant health issues at the county level. If you would like to get in touch with your Agent, you can fine more information here.

Finally, if you have any other information that might be helpful, feel free to provide that here or attach a separate page.

Charges and Specific Diseases

If you are submitting a sample on your own, you may not have a specific disease in mind, and just want to know what’s wrong with your tree. However, you may have information from an arobirst or other plant health care professional who recommended sample submission. If you are not sure what to select, leave everything blank, and the TPDDL will perform a basic test. If they determine that further testing is required, they will conduct those as well. If you have been instructed by your arborist to get a test for a specific disease, indicate that here.

Fees and Billing

The TPDDL is supported by state of Texas funds, but does charge a fee for its services. The stardard diagnosis charge (as of December 2018) is $35 per specimen (individual plant/tree). Additional tests carry additional charges (see above). Make sure to include payment for the basic diagnosis and any opther services selected. If further testing is needed, the TPDDL will send a bill for any additional charges. If you do not wish to have any further testing done beyond the basic diagnosis, indicate that in the Comments or on the back of the form. However, an accurate diagnosis and management recommendations may not be possible without more specific tests.

If you have any concerns about the submission fees, contact your local AgriLife Exstension office.

3. Packaging and Shipping

It is critical to pack and ship your sample appropriately, to enable the TPDDL to conduct their analysis. Certain samples require special preparations, but for most submissions, all you need are some zip-top bags and basic packing material.

  • Send live samples only.
    • If the sample cannot be sent immediately after collection, be sure to keep it refrigerated.
  • Pack each sample type in a separate plastic bag.
    • Any soil or roots should be kept separate from leaves/branches and fruits/flowers.
  • Do not put anything else in the sample bags.
    • Do not put any excess moisture, paper towls, or submission forms.
  • Enclose submission forms in a separate plastic bag.
    • This helps keep the forms from getting damaged by sample leakage.
  • Pack all materials in a sturdy shipping box.
    • Do not use only an envelope, as the samples may be damaged.
    • Use recycled newspaper if you need extra padding.
  • Use expedited shipping if possible.
    • The TPDDL is open during normal business hours, Monday-Friday; consult their website for any scheduled closures.
    • Overnight shipping is usually the best option.

When Should I Expect My Results?

Depending on the season, results can come in as little as two weeks, but may take longer. The fall and spring are high submission times, and can lead to some delays. Additionally, certain tests take time to perform. If you have any questions about specifc turnaround time, contact the TPDDL.

What Will I Get Back from the Lab?

Once the testing is complete, you will receive a results report in the way you indicated on the form. You will not receive any of the samples or packing materials back. The results form indicates what tests were done, what the findings were, and what management steps are recommended.

Click here for a sample results report, and see the explanations below.

Specimen Number

This is the lab-assigned number for each specimen submitted. This number should be used in any correspondence to the TPDDL about your submission.

General Sample Notes

Here, the TPDDL will confirm the submitter information and provide any general notes about the sample.

Testing Overview

long with the dates the sample was received and processed, this section will indicate the TPDDL employeee responsible for your testing (diagnostician) as well as what types of tests were perfomed.

Diagnosis/Recommendations

This is the most important section of the lab report. Here, the diagnostician will list one or multiple diagnoses for the problems observed on the samples submitted. This information should be passed on to your arborist.

Additionally, the TPDDL will include management recommendations. These may include regulating moisture, temperature, and drainage. The lab may also recommend removal of all or part of the infected plant as well as application of fertilizes or a pesticide formulated to combat the particular pathogen. Please note that, while these recommendations are helpful, they may not be applicable to your particular situation. A certified arborist can examine the tree on-site and, along with the TPDDL results, make a complete diagnosis.

What do I do now?

The TPDDL testing results and recommendations will give you a starting point for managing a sick of stressed tree. Some steps, such as modifying watering schedules, need to be undertaken by the tree owner. Others, such as application of recommended pesticides, must be performed by a licensed professional. Once you have your results from the lab, contact a certified arborist to discuss the best way to proceed.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.