Category Resources

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! If you’re new to the area, or just haven’t noticed before, seeing otherwise healthy live oaks turn brown and drop their leaves in the Spring can be a cause for concern, but don’t worry! Live oak leaf exchange in the Spring is part of the healthy life cycle of the trees, and is a sign that your live oaks are ready for new growth as the weather warms up. As always, if you have any questions about live oaks or any other trees, let us know!

While Christmas tree farms are not a common sight around North Texas, and many traditional evergreen trees do not thrive in our urban forest, there are several native evergreen species that can be used to give your yard some year-round color. Additionally, we’ll mention some introduced species that are popular, but don’t always do well in our environment.

Native Texas Evergreens

• Nellie R. Stevens Holly

There are a wide variety of hollies that are native to Texas, but perhaps the most classically “holly-like” is the Nellie R. Stevens holly. This versatile shrub can grow to as much as 30 feet tall, or be regularly trimmed for a low hedge. The Nellie R. Stevens holly features deep green, glossy foliage and the female specimens produce bright red berries. If you want a winter classic that looks marvelous against snow (when we get snow), the Nellie R. Stevens holly is perfect. Plus, the branches, leaves, and berries can be harvested to make great additions to holiday decor.

• Magnolia

Magnolias are not often thought of around Christmas, but these southern staples are some of the most common evergreens in the area. Magnolias can range in size from majestic, 40-foot-tall examples, with foliage draping the trunk all the way to the ground, to small cultivars that can be used as shrubs. While magnolias are generally well-suited to North Texas, to really thrive, some varieties need extra care. With their large leaves, magnolias can also cause quite a mess during leaf exchange. Still, it is hard to go wrong with magnolias, which is why they are a Texas classic.

Introduced Evergreens

• Pines (Afghan/Eldarica, Austrian, Japanese)

While there are pine trees native to Texas, they are found in different ecoregions, and are not naturally features of our North Texas blackland prairie. Still, some pine species have been imported to the area, with varying success. Most pines prefer dry, sandy, or rocky soils over the denser, clay-heavy soil of North Texas. A lack of proper drainage can lead to moisture retention in the soil, which can cause some species of pine to develop fungal infestations. With proper monitoring, pines can be cultivated in North Texas, but they rarely thrive, and may be more suited to shrub or ornamental usage.

• Italian Cypress and Junipers

Once a ubiquitous feature of North Texas landscaping, Italian cypresses and their cousins in the juniper family have developed many health issues in the past few years. Like pines, Italian cypresses are well-suited to sandy, rocky, dry soil, and need proper drainage. This makes them drought-tolerant, and ideal for their Mediterranean home, but also leads to high susceptibility to fungal issues. With high rainfall, cypresses and junipers can develop fungal cankers and brown out quickly. Because of the presence of the responsible fungi in the natural environment, treatment is often ineffective. If you have Italian cypresses or similar species, and have been noticing a decline, it may be time to consider replacing them with evergreens better-suited to our environment.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (evergreen or not) and we love our customers! There are other native Texas trees that are evergreen, such as the Texas mountain laurel and our local favorite live oak, but we thought these would be a good place to start if you are looking for some winter color as a gift or want some landscaping ideas. As always, we are happy to have one of our certified arborists discuss which evergreen would be best-suited for your particular needs. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with those or any other questions you may have, and we hope this holiday season and the year to come are filled with joy for you and your loved ones!

With all the storms in 2019, we have seen unprecedented damage to our community. We have previously covered what happens when a tree falls on your house, and we wanted to supplement that information. We reached out to Katie Tu, a content specialist with QuoteWizard, to answer a few questions.

Does home insurance or auto insurance cover a tree falling on your car?

Most people think that their homeowners insurance will cover the costs if a tree falls on their car. However, this is not the case, unless your car happens to be parked in your garage and a tree falls through the garage and damages your car. In most other situations, your auto insurance will be the one you should look to for coverage.

Keep in mind that different insurance companies will handle these types of situations differently than others, and if you have any specific questions, you should contact your agent for clarifications.

What part of my auto insurance covers for tree damage?

Auto insurance comprises of the following elements: liability, collision, comprehensive, personal injury protection (PIP), uninsured motorist, and underinsured motorist. 

In the situation where a tree damages your vehicle, your comprehensive coverage is where you will be covered for it. Comprehensive coverage protects you from things like theft, fire, falling objects (like a tree), and natural disasters. 

Depending on your state or auto lender, you may not be required to have comprehensive coverage. However, if your car does get damaged for some of the reasons mentioned above, it’s a good idea to consider having it.

Are there any limitations to the coverage for tree damages?

That is going to be dependent on your insurance carrier and the coverages they offer. However, we do know that there are a couple things they may not cover:

• Your carrier is unlikely to cover repairs that cost more than the worth of your car. Therefore, if your vehicle is totaled, they are likely to pay the actual cash value of the car instead.
• They may not pay for the removal of the tree. You may think this is something you could do, but you may risk damaging the car even further. We suggest calling professionals to assist you with removing the tree.

What are the next steps after a tree has fallen on my car?

As soon as you notice the damage to your car, contact your agent or a representative of your auto insurance company. Try to provide as much detail and information as you can about what happened, and they can help navigate you on the next steps.

After completing your conversation, here’s what you should do:

• Take lots of photos: Try to get different angles, close-ups, and whole picture.
• Remove the debris: Avoid hurting yourself or doing any more additional damage. If the job is too big or dangerous for you to do yourself, consult with a tree care company for assistance.
• Check your policy: If you didn’t do it over the phone already, check your policy limits and your deductible. You’ll want to make sure you’re also able to pay for your deductible as well.
• See where the tree damage came from: Check to see if it came from your neighbor’s yard or vice versa.

If the tree that fell on my car was my neighbors, whose insurance pays for it?

If you suspect that your neighbor is at fault for the tree damage to your car, their insurer could pay for the damages if you have hard evidence or proof that they were negligent with care. Evidence like a dated letter to your neighbor asking them to cut the tree due to rot or some other reason could help with your case.

Keep in mind that this works both ways, so if you have a tree that could potentially cause damage to your neighbor, you’ll want to make sure you keep maintenance on it. If you ignore certain warning signs, you and your insurance may have to pay for the damages. 

Regardless, if a tree has fallen on your car and you’re looking for coverage, you would need to file a claim with your insurance.

How could I prevent this from happening?

Of course, to prevent any issues in the first place is to be proactive and do maintenance as needed for trees. If you have a tree in your yard, check it routinely, especially before hurricane season or the winter, to see if you may need to trim it.

It’s always a good idea to also check on your neighbor’s trees or talk to your neighbor about keeping their tree routinely checked to avoid any future damages or headaches.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we hate to see destruction like we had in 2019. If you are concerned about the safety or stability of your or your neighbor’s trees, or have any other questions, let us know.

With the extensive and repeated storm damage we have had in 2019, many neighborhoods have lost their beautiful, established trees. While there is no quick fix to restore our urban forest to its former glory, planting new trees now will have benefits in the years to come.

Many communities have had recent programs to distribute new trees to residents, but they will do little good if they are not given the opportunity to become established and thrive. While trees are self-sustaining in nature, in our urban environment, planting needs to be performed carefully and correctly. Simply “sticking a tree in the ground and leaving it to grow” will, more often than not, prevent the tree from flourishing or even surviving. The care a tree receives during its first few years in the ground determines the health and longevity it will have decades later.

Planting Methods for Different Types of Tree

How your tree was grown at the nursery and delivered to you dictates the best methods to follow while planting. The most common ways that trees are sold are bare root, ball and burlap, and in a container.

Planting a Bare Root Tree

• Bare root trees can have some of the best long-term results after planting, but need delicate handling.
  • They are often shipped in groups, tied together, with a hydrating wrap around the root systems.
  • It is imperative that the roots be kept moist until the tree is in the ground; do not remove the root wrap until ready to plant.
• Because the roots are loose, they are easy to untangle.
  • When you are ready to plant, gently separate the individual root strands, being careful not to break the small root fibers.
  • Do not remove or prune any of the roots.
• Bare root trees should be planted in a hole at least three times the diameter of the spread out roots.
  • The hole should not be too deep; the root flare, where the trunk ends and the roots begin, should be planted about just above ground level.
  • When digging the hole, especially in clay soil, avoid smoothing the sides and bottom of the hole too much, as that may prevent water flow.
  • Make a small cone of earth in the center of the hole,on which the tree can be placed, with the roots splayed out around it.

Planting a Ball and Burlap Tree

• Burlapped trees have been grown from seedlings; once large enough, they are dug up and the root ball is wrapped.
• Burlapped trees are best planted as soon as possible.
  • They may be kept out of the ground for a short period as long as the burlap and root ball is kept moist.
• Always carry or move a burlapped tree by the root ball, not by the trunk.
  • Lifting from the trunk can stress or damage the tree.
• When you are ready to plant, remove the cloth wrap completely.
  • Also remove any staking materials, twine, or wire.
• Make sure the hole is at least three times the diameter of the root ball.
  • The hole only needs to be deep enough so that the top of the root ball is just above ground level.

Planting A Container-Grown Tree

• Container trees are the most common type seen at nurseries and in city programs.
  • They are often sold by the “gallon,” which specified the size of the container.
• Container trees can be kept out of the ground for a while if the soil is kept moist.
  • Be sure to keep the unplanted trees in a shady area so they do not overheat or dry out.
• Because of the carefully-managed growing conditions, container trees need particular care when planting.
• As with burlapped trees, always move a container tree by the container, not the trunk.
  • If the soil is dry, pulling from the trunk may remove the tree from the container.
• Container-grown trees are especially susceptible to root binding.
  • When you are ready to plant, remove the root ball from the container and examine it carefully.
  • Unwrap any roots that are encircling the root ball; if there are larger roots that cannot be moved, they can be cut.
  • Using the back of a shovel or your shoe, press down on the sides of the root ball, as you roll it over on the ground.
    • The goal is to loosen the compaction that occurs over time in the container.
  • If you have a small garden fork, brush out the root strands to straighten them.
    • Be careful not to tear or break the major root fibers.
  • While it can be overly time-consuming to straighten out all the roots, any steps taken at this point will greatly benefit the tree, especially during the first few years in the ground.
• Container-grown trees should be planted in a hole three times the diameter of the container.
  • Make the depth of the hole shallow enough to allow the top of the root ball or root flare to sit just above ground level.
  • If a great deal of the roots have been straightened out, you may need to make a small mound, as with bare root trees.
    • Evenly spread out any loose roots pointing away from the tree.

Backfilling the Hole

When replacing the soil around your newly-planted tree, be sure not to compress the soil too much. Adding the soil in stages, and heavily watering the soil, rather than tamping it down, between rounds can greatly help with soil stability while avoiding compaction. Only fill the hole up to just below the root flare.

Proper Mulching

Mulching is key when planting a young tree, especially with the North Texas climate. We have previously talked about proper mulching techniques, but the main things to keep in mind are:

• Mulch around the tree to a radius of two to three feet from the trunk.
  • Spread about three to four inches deep of mulch.
• Leave a space of at least three inches between the mulch and the trunk itself.
  • Do not pile mulch up against the tree.
• In the summer, or when water retention is a concern, make a small, raised ring around the outer edge of the mulch circle.
  • In winter, or during wet periods, you can simply spread the mulch flat.

Should A New Tree Be Staked?

With a properly-planted tree, staking should not be necessary. Be sure to remove any nursery-installed stakes or wires after the tree is planted. If you are in a high-wind area, or there is concern about damage to the tree from activity, a stake may help keep the tree upright and preserve the area. If you do choose to stake your tree, remove the stake after a year. Stakes left in place too long can prevent a tree from developing properly.

How Do I Water My New Tree?

Newly-planted trees need a lot of water, especially during the summer or dry periods. See our previous watering guide for more tips, but plan to water at least once a week during the fall, winter and spring, and twice a week during the summer. Use a soaker hose, running for an hour, or a garden hose on low for 15 minutes. Be sure to water the entire area evenly, and stop if water starts pooling or gathering on the surface.

Next Steps for Your New Tree

Even if they are planted, watered, and mulched properly, new trees may need some extra help. There are soil amendments, such as mycorrhizal fungi, that can be added to the roots when planting to help with water uptake. After planting, mulch and compost are an integral part of maintaining soil health. Seasonal fertilization and other soil amendments are always a good idea for young trees, especially in our urban soils. Consult a certified arborist to get recommendations on what will best help your new tree.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees, old and new, and we love our customers! While we don’t plant trees ourselves, we are eager to help educate our community to help homeowners plant their new trees. Following the storms of 2019, we will need massive replanting efforts to repopulate our urban forest, and those efforts start with individuals planting single trees. We hope this guide has been helpful; visit the Texas A&M Forest Service Texas Tree Planting Guide  for more info on planting trees in Texas. As always, if you have any questions about your new trees, your established trees, or how you can help our urban forest, let us know!

After a devastating weather event like the tornadoes on October 20, 2019, the damage can be hard to assess, let alone start to repair. While damage to homes and other structures is of utmost importance to the community, addressing the damage to our urban forest, and determining what can be saved, is a key component of recovering after destruction.

Cleaning up downed trees is the first priority in an emergency situation. Fallen trees can prevent first responders and repair crews from accessing damaged utility lines and dangerous structures. Once the trees on the ground have been addressed, however, we must think about those left standing. After a high-wind event like a tornado, the trees left standing often have severe limb breakage and defoliation, or loss of leaves. Both of these issues have short- and long-term consequences, that must be understood.

Tree Safety Is Key

As soon as possible after a storm, owners of damaged trees should take a few steps to ensure there is no further damage to people or property:

• Clear the area around any damaged trees of vehicles and valuables and take steps to prevent access to the area.
  • If possible, cordon off the entire dripline area (from the trunk to the tips of the branches).
  • If there is a tree that could fall on your home, consider staying out of that part of the house until the tree can be assessed.
• Once the area has been secured, contact a certified arborist to assess the damage to your trees.
  • The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) has established the Tree Risk Assessment Qualification (TRAQ) to train certified arborists in the proper evaluation of the safety and stability of trees. Be sure to find an arborist who has completed the TRAQ program.
  • Ask the arborist about tree stabilization, such as bolting and cabling. These measures can help prevent future issues with splitting trees.
• Trees that are stable, but have lost a great amount of the canopy will probably need fertilization or other plant health care measures to recover.

Will My Trees Survive Tornado Damage?

Ultimately, the prognosis for a storm-damaged tree depends on several factors, including the species, location, soil condition, and underlying health of the tree. Based on our experience, however, certain North Texas trees should fare better than others.

• Live Oaks, Cedar Elms, Pecans, Bur Oaks – Uncertain/Wait and See

  • While these species are resilient, we are assessing them on a case-by-case basis.
  • If the tree is stable, we recommend waiting until the spring to see if new growth appears.

• Red Oaks, Maples – High Risk for Sun Damage

  • Both types of trees are susceptible to sunburn, which dries out the bark, causing it to peel off,  and exposing the sapwood underneath to damage.
  • Even if the tree is stable, the risk of stress and dieback from the winter sun is great.
  • Maples and red oaks that have lost their leaves have little protection from sun exposure.

• Crape Myrtles – High Chance of Survival

  • As long as the crape myrtles remained in the ground, they should survive.
  • Damage to limbs and safety pruning may alter the shape of the tree, but should not cause any major issues.
  • If increased insect activity is observed, consider using insecticidal soap in the winter or pesticides in the spring.

• Mulberries – Uncertain/Wait and See

  • Mulberries are fairly hardy, and may survive, but may suffer from dangerous instability.
  • Once tree is stabilized, wait to reassess during the next growing season.

• Hackberries – Uncertain

  • Have the root area examined by a certified arborist for signs of root rot or kretzschmaria.
  • Even if the tree appears undamaged, the hackberry’s tendency to develop root instability issues may make it a fall risk in the future.

• Magnolias – Unlikely to Survive

  • Extensive defoliation will likely stress the tree past the point of survival, and prevent recovery from any damage.
    • As evergreens, magnolias depend on their leaves year-round.

• Ornamentals – Likely to Survive/May Want to Replace

  • Smaller trees and ornamentals seem to fare better in high winds, as they are able to flex with the pressure.
    • One risk to smaller trees is being damaged by falling debris from larger trees or structures. If there is no physical damage, the tree is probably stable.
  • Many smaller ornamentals are understory trees, used to shade from larger species.
    • As with red oaks, risk of subsequent damage from sun exposure is high.
  • Even if the tree survives, it may not be as well-suited for its space after the damage, and owners may prefer to replace it.
    • Defoliation or wind damage may have irreparably altered the shape.

What Should I Do Now?

Whatever kind of tree you have, and however it has been damaged, contact a certified arborist to determine the best steps to take. We highly recommend fertilization for all trees impacted by storms, especially in our urban soils. If your trees are going to recover, they will need all the nutrients they can get. If your landscaping has been disturbed by the tornado, now might be a good time to adjust your mulching practices to help enrich the soil going forward. If you need guidance, we are always here to help.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers. We are shocked and saddened to see the widespread damage and devastation after the recent tornadoes, and our hearts go out to all those who have lost their homes. So much of our beautiful urban forest seems to have been uprooted or destroyed, and we want to do what we can to preserve what remains. We hope this overview has been helpful, and we are always available to come out to assess your specific trees for damage, stability issues, health issues, or to give you our recommendations for post-storm care. Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have.