Category Tree Health Care

Leading Killer of Trees in Urban Environments: Construction

by Texas Tree Surgeons Arborist Services, Resources, Tree Health Care

Damage from construction projects is the most common cause of tree death in urban environments, and while the effects may not be immediately apparent, the tree can be in decline and die years after nearby construction has been completed.

Injury to a tree happens unintentionally from mechanical tree injury, root damage, loss of rooting space, changes in soil moisture, soil compaction and contamination.

Why? Lack of construction protection and lack of understanding what constitutes the critical root zone of a tree.

Tree surrounded by a fence to protect it from construction damage.
Construction is the most common cause of tree death in urban environments, and while the effects may not be immediately apparent, the tree can be in decline and die years after nearby construction has been completed. Erecting a barrier to protect the critical root zone during construction will safeguard them from damage.

The most common problems associated with construction:

  • Root loss is generally caused by stripped soil, sub-grade preparation for pavement and trenching for utilities. Severing one major root can cause the loss of 15 to 20% of a root system.
  • Mechanical wounds (to limbs or trunks) caused by machines, poor pruning, high-traffic, and people.
  • When the soil grade is lowered a large percentage of roots may be removed. When the grade is increased a tree can be smothered because 90% of absorbing roots are in the top few inches of soil.
  • Soil compaction smothers trees by reducing available oxygen and decreasing a tree’s ability to absorb nutrients and water. This causes the roots to be more exposed to the elements, as they struggle to absorb water and nutrients.
  • Spills or dumping of fluids (paint, oil, fuel, etc.) can cause quick and rapid death of a tree.

During the planning process

Decide which trees will be kept, which trees must be removed and which trees need to be protected. Consider tree location, tree size, tree heath, tree species, species diversity and tree age (younger trees usually withstand construction better than more mature trees). Then assess the potential impact to the trees and make modifications in plans when possible. Identify tree work that must be done (pruning and crown-raising where necessary, treatments, irrigation, fertilization, mulching, and pest management) under the supervision of a Certified Arborist.

Think about the amount of time it takes to complete a construction project from start to finish. The tree is enduring a heavy amount of pressure for a long period of time. We assume there is no damage since the tree wont show the effects of stress until years after the project is finished.

Before beginning construction

  • Tree Work
    This should be performed under a certified arborist’s supervision and should include the necessary pruning, removal of dead wood, and removal of trees. This is ideally done in the winter time while the trees are dormant and at least 8 months to a year before construction begins. This is the time to begin a deep root fertilization and Tree Health Care Program that will help strengthen and protect your tree.
  • Erect Barriers
    The barriers should be as far from the base of the trunk as possible or a minimum of the drip line. Within the Tree Protection Zone, mulch should be applied 2-4 inches deep around the base of the tree within the barrier.
  • Mulching
    Where barriers are not possible, avoid compaction by mulching 6 inches deep and laying plywood on top to disperse weight. For removal of mulch at the end of the project consult with an arborist.
  • Reduce Chance of Harm
    Limit access to site to avoid unnecessary soil compaction: Create one road in and one road out of site with barriers on either side. This route can later be used to trench for utilities, water lines, driveway, etc.
There are no protective barriers around the tree. Materials are being kept at the base of the tree and compacting the soil.

During construction

  • Water
    Water trees frequently with slow soak. If roots have been damaged or removed, then a tree will need more water than it did before because it has less ability to uptake necessary water.
  • Feed
    Trees should be fertilized at least three times a year. We suggest a deep root organic fertilizer to increase available nutrients.
  • Pest And Disease Control
    When trees become stressed from construction they are more vulnerable to pest infestations and other diseases.
  • Pruning
    During construction, we only want to remove what is necessary for the project to continue. This includes damaged limb, dead wood, or infected sections. No other pruning should be done if not necessary.

Post construction

To help enable survival of your trees, treat and seal crown and trunk injuries, cable and brace, repair irrigation and drainage issues harmful to trees; remove excess mulch and mulch for long-term health of tree, aerate soil that has been compacted, fertilize for the next few years. Have the trees inspected seasonally by a Certified Arborist.

Symptoms of tree stress from construction damage

Short annual shoot elongation, small yellow leaves, thin foliage, leaf wilting, early fall coloration or defoliation, epicormic shoots, twig dieback, branch dieback, irregular wounds, secondary pest problems, and decay at wound sites.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! Trees are a wise investment of funds because landscaped homes are more valuable than non-landscaped homes. If you are planning to remodel, or do construction we would love to help safeguard your trees. Contact us today!

The Best Way to Protect Your Trees From Freeze-Damage

by Texas Tree Surgeons Extreme Weather, Tree Health Care

Weather in Texas is a bit unpredictable, to the point we can predict it will be unpredictable. 

With 2021 winter storm and freeze have made everyone more aware and concerned about how to protect trees from freeze and the stress of extreme weather.

What can you do to help protect your trees from freeze damage?

We say this a lot but the best way to protect your trees from the effects of freeze is to water and use mulch. In addition, do not over-prune your trees.

Sounds so simple yet it often gets overlooked.

During winter people tend to think we do not need to water our trees because it is no longer hot. This isn’t true. Yes, it is cooler but your trees still need water. We are still in a drought.

If you need tips on how to water your tree you can find our video here: How to Water a Tree During a Drought

Mulch is always beneficial as long as it is done right. For best practices, you can find our blog here: How to Use Mulch

Why is watering and mulch so important?

Watering helps insulate the tree from freeze damage, I know it may sound counterintuitive but think of it this way. During a freeze, it is recommended to leave your faucets running to ensure they don’t freeze and burst. Same idea, it keeps the tree’s living system running and will help regulate your tree.

  • Drought-stressed plants are more at risk to cold damage.
  • Watering a couple of days prior to a freeze is beneficial for optimal plant uptake and utilization prior to a large drop in temperature.
  • Helps insulate both the tree and the soil. Out of the entire tree, roots are more susceptible to freezing if not adequately insulated by moist soil and mulch.

Mulch helps insulate the roots and provide additional nutrients. This makes a difference for urban trees because they are often in competition for resources with turf grass or surrounded by concrete. Trees in a forest are insulated by fallen leaves and tiny plants that serve as ground cover. Whatever we can do to help mimic what is found in a forest will always help the health of a tree.

  • This is especially helpful for young trees. Mulch helps retain moisture to insulate as well as protect from soil cracking that could encourage root dehydration.

Why is over-pruning your tree so harmful?

  • You are taking away its food source and essentially starving your tree. They have fewer leaves to help produce energy and will suffer more stress during harsh weather conditions. 
  • Without the extra foliage, you are exposing the tree. Think of the internal branches as a sweater and the saying; there is no bad weather, but bad clothes. The leaves help regulate temperature in the interior canopy. 
  • When there are leaves only on the tip of a branch and not down its entire length they are at higher risk of breaking due to wind. This is because it disrupts the load distribution of the branch. Evergreens are especially at risk of breaking due to ice if over-pruned. 

Additional information about sudden temperature change:

  • Temperature change is the least controllable environmental factor in landscapes.
  • Trees are more susceptible to injury if the temperature drops quickly rather than slowly over several days.
  • Trees can be injured or killed by low temperatures almost any season of the year, but the most critical periods are:
    • Quick extreme temperature fluctuations
    • The coldest portion of winter
    • When minimum temperature occur after a warm winter period even though plants had been at a maximum hardiness earlier (this is typical North Texas weather).
  • Avoid high nitrogen fertilization.

The best way to protect your tree from freeze damage is to water regularly, apply mulch, and do not over-prune.

If you have questions about what to do post-freeze damage please read our previous blogs:

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about protecting trees from freeze damage. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.

Hackberry Leafrollers are Back!

by Texas Tree Surgeons Tree Health Care

 In September 2022, we saw an infestation of small, green worms and their webs on hackberries in North Texas. With the reappearance of the hackberry leafroller moth larvae in August 2023, our recommendations for how to deal with them are a little different.

What’s Changed?

While we usually see hackberry leafroller caterpillar activity in the fall, in 2023, we are beginning to see them while we are still in the heat of summer. Additionally, many hackberries in the DFW are are still recovering from leafroller activity last year and have damaged canopies as a result. The intense heat and drought conditions of 2023 have resulted in an urban forest that is already under extreme stress. Hackberry trees that would normally handle leafrollers easily are now less capable of resisting the pests’ damage. Additionally, there are new recommendations for chemical controls.

What Can We Do about Hackberry Leafrollers in 2023?

While there are no insecticidal treatments that are effective against hackberry leafrollers once the webs appear, it is important to take steps now to ensure that trees bounce back from an infestation and are better prepared for next year.

  • Do not apply a spray insecticide to try to kill the caterpillarsThis is not generally effective and will offer no long-term benefits
  • DO NOT USE HIGH NITROGEN FERTILIZERS.
    • These products cause trees to rapidly put out new growth which can use up the energy stores the trees need to resist pest activity
  • NEVER USE “WEED AND FEED” PRODUCTS near your trees
    • Especially during times of drought and reduced moisture, adding herbicides to the soil can be deadly to trees that are already suffering from a lack of nutrients and other resources
  • If possible, remove any visible caterpillars and their webs
    • Properly dispose of leafroller larvae by burning or by bagging in plastic and putting in the garbage.
  • WATER, WATER, WATER!
    • Proper watering, and even aggressive watering during extended dry periods, is the most important step you can take to bolster your trees’ health
  • Apply soil amendments to help increase the amount of nutrients in dry, desiccated soil
    • Organic products can be utilized that do not contain an excessive amount of nitrogen and will not cause unsustainable growth
    • Installing mulch and compost around your trees is always a good idea, as it helps the soil maintain a constant temperature and moisture level, and it adds nutrient-rich organic material
  • Consider applying systemic insecticides in the late winter or early spring that can help inoculate your trees
    • It is important to introduce insect control measures into the tree’s circulatory system at the appropriate time
  • Contact a local ISA Certified Arborist® to evaluate your trees and make specific recommendations
    • Hackberry trees are prone to a fungal root rot caused by Kretzschmaria deusta and are made more susceptible when stressed by other factors
  • In the spring, evaluate trees to remove any dead wood and assess health

Treat for Leafrollers in the Late Spring or Early Summer

Hackberry leafrollers only have one generation per year, laying eggs on tree leaves in the fall, which hatch the following year. In North Texas, this occurs around May. Within a few weeks of the hatching, a soil-injected product containing acephate can be used, with a possible second application after a few weeks if activity is still seen. If you see leafroller webs this year, contact an arborist to get on the schedule for pesticide application next spring.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! This summer has been rough on all living things in North Texas and we are saddened to see another threat to Hackberry trees has become active while we are still dealing with drought and heat. Our team of certified arborists is ready to come out and assess your hackberries and all your trees to provide recommendations for soil amendments and insect control tailored to their specific needs. Contact us today!

Why Shouldn’t We Treat for Aphids?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

The recent explosion of aphid activity in North Texas caused frustration and concern among tree owners and anyone who has encountered the sticky mess that aphids cause. When aphids have matured and are feeding (and producing honeydew), best practice guidelines do not recommend using chemical controls. Introducing natural aphid predators can help reduce the population, but the best course of action, especially with a fall aphid infestation, is simply to wait about a month for the aphids to die off and cooler weather to prevent another generation from maturing.

Are There Any Natural Ways to Get Rid of Aphids?

Chemical pesticides are not the only way to control aphids. One of the most effective and long-lasting ways of reducing aphid activity is to introduce natural predators of the aphid into the environment. With an autumn infestation, however, there is limited time to act and leaves may drop and temperatures fall before any aphid control has a chance to make a difference.

Lady Beetle (“Ladybug”)

  • “Lady beetle” refers to several species of insect in the family Coccinellidae of the order Coleoptera
    • There are over 450 species in the United States, some native, some introduced
  • Drawn to areas with large concentrations of aphids or other food source
  • Prey on aphids throughout life cycle
    • Lady beetle larvae often resemble tiny alligators
  • Take about two to three weeks to hatch and mature from eggs

While lady beetles are a welcome addition to the garden, some non-native species can invade our homes during winter. These lady beetles often have an “M” or “W” mark on their shells, just behind the head. To keep your home lady beetle-free:

  • Keep trees and bushes trimmed back from structures
  • Avoid stacking firewood next to the house
  • Seal up cracks around windows
  • Use wire mesh to screen large vents

Taking a few precautions will not only keep lady beetles out of your house, but block larger and harmful pests as well!

Lacewings

  • Two major varieties: green lacewings and brown lacewings, in order Neuroptera
    • Lay distinctive single eggs on stalks
  • Larvae often called “aphid lions”
    • Can consume up to 200 aphids a week
    • Adults can feed on aphids as well
  • Take about two to three weeks to hatch and mature from eggs

There are species of lady beetle and lacewing that are active in the spring and in the fall, so there is a potential for year-round aphid control. Introducing lady beetle larvae can have a serious effect on aphid activity, but keep in mind that, depending on the species, the predators may not survive winter and may need to be re-introduced in the spring.

In addition to predators, simple physical controls, such as using water to remove aphids from plants, can also help in the short term. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizers as these can stimulate rapid growth and attract more aphids. Luckily, with fall aphids, once the leaves drop and their food source is removed, the pests will die off quickly.

Why aren’t Chemical Controls Effective for Fall Aphids?

There are several chemical insecticides that target aphids. These products generally break down into two categories: systemic and non-systemic.

  • Systemic Pesticides
    • Absorbed into the the plant they are applied to and transported throughout the plant’s structure
      • Can take up to a month for chemical to become present throughout mature trees and reach full effectiveness
    • Generally effective for longer than non-systemic
      • Resistant to being diluted or washed away by rain
    • While present in plant, can protect both new and old growth
    • Can be applied before growing season or anticipated increase in pest activity
  • Non-Systemic Pesticides
    • Cling to the surface of treated plants
      • Effective immediately
    • At risk of dilution or removal by rain, sprinklers, etc.
    • May not protect growth after application
    • Can be applied preventatively, but timing more important due to risk of dilution/loss
    • Difficult or impossible to apply to large trees/plants
      • Large-scale spraying may lead to environmental contamination

Comprehensive pest management often uses both systemic and non-systemic chemicals to provide maximum protection. Before a growing season, in late winter for example, it is common to apply a surface spray and a systemic insecticide to crape myrtles and other trees that are susceptible to insect infestations in the spring. The surface spray provides protection while the systemic product has time to come to full effectiveness.

In the case of insect activity in fall, chemical controls should not be applied as they would be before a growing season. Non-systemic pesticide sprays can be effective against current pest activity, but in the case of large, mature trees, such as the pecans and oaks infested with aphids in the fall of 2022, applying sufficient quantities of external pest control is not only expensive, but is potentially hazardous to the surrounding environment with the high potential for overspray and excess application. Furthermore, as fall in North Texas often brings rain, any product applied may be washed away quickly, and possibly end up in the groundwater.

Systemic insecticides carry a much lower risk of environmental contamination, but take about a month to become effective. In the case of a fall application, systemic controls may take even longer, as trees begin going dormant and dropping leaves, slowing the uptake of both nutrients and chemicals. In general, it is not recommended to use any systemic insecticides in the fall, as the likelihood of their becoming effective before the pests naturally die off is low.

In summary, be wary of service providers who claim that they can control fall aphids chemically; they may be able to reduce activity, but full eradication is nearly impossible and runs a high risk of contamination and waste of chemicals, time, and money.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! These fall aphids have been a real nuisance, and we want to give our customers the best advice so that money and time is not wasted on ineffective treatments. While we don’t recommend chemical application for fall aphids, we are big fans of introducing some aphid predators while you still have time! As a woman-owned and women-led company, we are partial to lady beetles :-), but lacewings are great, too! Share this article and spread the word about aphids, and let us know if you have any other tree questions!

Why Is There So Much Sticky Stuff Dripping From My Trees?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

We have discussed the relationship between aphids and the sticky residue seen on patios and cars before, but the Fall of 2022 has seen an explosion in aphid populations and the resulting mess. While there is little that can be done to reduce aphid activity this season, it is unlikely that the aphid infestations will have a lasting negative effect on trees in North Texas.

Why Is My Tree Dripping Sticky Stuff? Is It Sap?

While it may be confused with sap, the sticky substance we are seeing dripping from trees is most likely honeydew, which is produced by aphids. Aphids are attracted to many different species of tree, but are most commonly seen in North Texas on crape myrtles, pecans, hackberries, and certain oaks.

  • The aphids feed on sap and produce honeydew, which accumulates on the trees, eventually dropping.
    • Since honeydew is essentially sugar water, it can cause surfaces it comes in contact with to become sticky.
    • The sugary residue can also attract ants and other animals.
    • In large enough accumulations, honeydew can lead to the growth of molds and fungi, such as sooty mold, which is commonly seen on aphid-infested crape myrtles.

Why Is This Happening Now?

Like the trees they prey on, aphids are greatly affected by seasonal weather patterns and changes to their environment. In 2022, we had a long, dry summer that ended with heavy rainfall. The abundance of moisture at the end of the season combined with still-elevated temperatures caused rapid growth of many plants, blooming of flowering trees and bushes, and a resurgence in the insect population. The abundance of new growth late in the year was able to support many more species that feed on plants, like aphids, than the previous year’s late summer. While this is not the first time this has happened in North Texas (see our post about this same topic from October 2018), it happens rarely enough that it can be surprising when it occurs.

Is There a Spray or Other Treatment for Aphids?

  • Foliar sprays to control insects are not recommended for large trees (such as pecans and oaks), and have a very limited window of effectiveness.
    • Additionally, any product that is applied to a tree rather than used systemically is subject to being diluted or washed away entirely by rain.
  • Systemic insecticides can be used in trees of all sizes, but take about a month from application to be taken up by the tree’s vascular tissue and reach full effectiveness.
    • Because of this timing, systemic insecticides are best applied before a growing season or an expected surge in insect activity.
  • Be wary of service providers who claim to be able to control an active aphid infestation quickly.
    • They will either not be able to deliver on that promise, or will use a wasteful, excessive, and potentially dangerous insecticide spray that could be rendered ineffective in the next rainstorm.
  • Effective treatment takes time, and if the aphids are already active, they will most likely die off naturally before any chemical controls could make a difference.

What Can We Do About the Current Activity and Sticky Mess?

  • Depending on the size of the host tree and the number of aphids present, it may be possible to spray some of them off the tree with a garden hose.
    • Ladybird beetles (laybugs) and some other insects are natural predators of the aphids, but trying to introduce them into the environment late in the season may not be effective.
  • The sticky honeydew is water-soluble and easily cleaned up with a mild detergent solution or a mixture of vinegar and water.
    • If possible, avoid parking under infested trees and cover patio furniture until the activity dies down.
  • Once their life cycle has run its course, the aphids will die off naturally.
    • With a lifespan of between 20 and 40 days, by the time the current generation of aphids dies, the weather will have cooled enough to prevent further activity until the next growing season.
  • To help prevent future infestations, and stop current ones from getting worse, avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer that stimulates rapid plant growth, as this will only serve to make your trees more attractive to pests like aphids.

Will the Aphids Cause Long-Term Issues in My Trees?

While an active aphid infestation can cause irritating honeydew production and unsightly mold growth, there are most likely no lasting effects on large trees. Increased insect activity late in a season is less likely to cause long-term damage. Additionally, even large populations of aphids rarely have any serious effect on mature trees. Once the aphids die off, any secondary issues, such as mold, will clear up.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! We hope that spreading the word about the current aphid issue will help put tree owners’ minds at ease. While nothing can be done to reduce aphid activity right now, there are preventative measures that can be taken in the winter to help reduce pests in the spring. We offer year-round plant health care programs that can help make sure your trees are prepared to handle issues at any time and bounce back from damage and stress. Ask one of our certified arborists to evaluate your trees today!

What are These Small, Green Worms Hanging Off My Trees?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care


In the spring and fall, we often get calls about small, green worms or caterpillars hanging on web-like threads from trees and structures. While they may be off-putting, and can be rampant some years, they should not be a cause of serious concern.

So, What are They?

While there are many similar-looking small caterpillars and worms, the variety most commonly seen in North Texas is the cankerworm. These inchworm-like caterpillars are the larvae of moths, usually the hackberry leafroller moth (Sciota celtidella). While the leafroller caterpillars usually emerge in the spring, depending on the weather they can also be active in the fall. The caterpillars spin thin strands of web-like filament that they use to move from tree to tree and to aid in feeding.

Should I be Worried?

While the hackberry leafroller can cause defoliation, there is little cause for concern. Healthy trees in good soil can withstand extensive defoliation. While trees that are under stress may suffer more from unseasonal leaf loss, hackberries are hardy, native trees in North Texas and will likely recover during the next growing season. In areas of high activity, the ground may be temporarily discolored, but this should clear up after the next heavy rain.

All About Hackberries

Hackberry trees are a common sight in DFW, and have even lent their name to several areas and neighborhoods! What we call hackberries may be of a few distinct tree species, but are all in the genus Celtis. Hackberries are fast-growing softwood trees that can often be found as volunteers along fences and hedgerows, grown from seeds dropped by birds and other animals that feed on the trees’ berries. Because of their fast growth and structure, and because they are often overlooked, hackberries can be prone to limb and trunk instabilities. One particular danger is root rot caused by the Kretschmaria deusta fungus.

Should I Do Anything?

Unfortunately, once the caterpillars emerge and begin feeding there are no effective insecticidal treatments. Using a water hose or other method to remove caterpillars from trees and structures can help some, but it is important to make sure that the removed caterpillars are disposed of so that they don’t simply re-infest the tree. Proper maintenance, especially of stressed trees, is usually all that is needed to ensure a hackberry recover from leaf rollers. Water correctly and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, opting instead for organic soil amendments to improve the tree’s microenvironment. As the population of leafroller caterpillars varies from year to year depending on environmental and other factors, preventative treatment is usually not recommended, due to low success rate and risk of over-usage of insecticidal chemicals.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! While it’s always a little startling to see unseasonal leaf drop, losing leaves doesn’t necessarily mean a tree is doomed! We are always happy to have one of our ISA Certified Arborists out to look at your hackberries (or any other trees) and let you know if what you are seeing needs to be addressed. Get in touch today!