Tree inside of container with a person in the background digging a hole.

Tree Selection Fundamentals

Things To Consider for a Healthy Tree Environment

When selecting a new tree for your home or property there are several things you should consider; location, growth speed, maximum size, critical root zone, soil, light and shade, water, surrounding plants, evergreen vs deciduous, flower/fruit/seed production, native vs nativized, and source stock. Below are some guides to help you determine the best tree for your property and your needs.

Location

The location a tree will be planted will determine how big it can get. Take into account potential obstacles for growth, such as:

  • Overhead utility lines
  • Structures
  • Underground irrigation or utility placement
  • Drainage
  • Soil composition
  • Light availability
  • Sidewalks, driveways, or other surface features
  • Pools, septic tanks, or other in-ground features
  • Planned construction or renovation

Growth Speed

Different tree species grow at different rates and faster isn’t always better. Growth speed can be related to age at planting as well as environmental factors.

Maximum Size

While it may vary, certain species of trees usually have a maximum and minimum expected height, as well as expected canopy spread. It is important to consider nearby buildings, signage, overhead utilities, and aesthetics when selecting a specific species of trees. It can be difficult and dangerous for the tree and for people to try to reduce the size of an already-mature tree. We do not recommend topping trees as a way to manage size.

Critical Root Zone

Related to the canopy spread, the critical root zone is the area around the base of a tree where vital underground roots are present. Both large, stabilizing roots and smaller feeder roots must be considered. Restricted root space or regular ground disturbance can stress a tree and cause premature failure.

Soil

Soil acidity, moisture, and composition determine what species can grow and thrive in North Texas. Much of soil found here is dense, alkaline clay. Trees that are not suited to this type of soil will not be able to get the required nutrients it needs and will eventually show signs of stress.

Light and Shade

Some trees are well-suited to the understory (beneath the top canopy), while other need full, all-day sun. Keep in mind that sunlight intensity and direction changes through the seasons, and can be affected by the growth of nearby plants, as well.

Water

Newly-planted trees need careful watering, but even established trees have a preferred level of soil moisture. Excessive soil moisture can help some species thrive, but contribute to disease in others. Consider where water pools during heavy rains, and where runoff goes when deciding where to plant your tree.

Surrounding Plants

Turf grass, other ground cover, and other plants contribute to the competition for water and nutrients in the soil. As a tree grows, it may cast different shade or cause surface distortions that affect surrounding plants.

Evergreen vs Deciduous

Deciduous trees that drop leaves every fall can feature fall color, but often create more leaf litter. Evergreen trees, whether broad-leafed or needle bearing do not drop all their leaves at once, but are generally the same shade of green throughout the year.

Flower, Fruit, and Seed Production

Spring blooms and seasonal fruit can attract birds and pollinators, contributing to the landscape’s beauty. Some types of flowers and fruit can cause concrete staining or be hazardous to pets.

Native vs Nativized

Native species generally do better than imported species, but there is a limited selection. Imported species can be adapted to climate and soil, and give a variety of size and foliage options, but may become invasive.

Source/Stock

Nursery stock from a specific tree farm or source can be prone to particular structural issues and diseases. If not cared for properly at the nursery, trees may need a long period of rehabilitation after planting. Selecting a larger tree over a smaller one is not always better.

While it may seem logical to plant the largest available specimen of a desired tree species, research has shown that planting smaller trees leads to more growth in the first year, and likely to better early establishment. Planting younger trees gives the tree owner more chances to provide the best care.

Tree Recommendations

We have a blog dedicated to helping you choose the best trees for North Texas.

Additional Resources

The Texas A&M Forest Service has published an online tree selector. On their website you are able to select a county and tree size for quick recommendations. In addition the International Society of Arboriculture offers user-friendly guidelines for choosing the right tree for your yard.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! We hope this blog on tree selection will help you choose the right tree for your home. We have additional resources on our North Texas Tree Owner’s Guide. If you would like immediate assistance with your trees please contact us today.

Will My Trees Survive Freezing Temps and Winter Weather?

The effects of the historic freezing temperatures in February 2021 are widespread. After the ice thawed and the snow melted, many people were left with frost-damaged or dead landscaping. While much of the damage from the rapidly-changing temperatures is obvious, trees and plants have also suffered internal damage, and will likely show signs for years to come.

Will the freezing temperatures and winter weather kill my trees?

Unfortunately, we can already see the signs of frost-killed plants: leaves and other plant tissue that appears wet, soft, brown/black, or dried up. This type of damage is prevalent in succulents, pittosporum, loropetalum, geraniums, and related plants. Palms will likely also suffer extensive frost damage, but it is best to wait until the summer to see if they put out new growth. 

Evergreens and more frost-resistant trees and shrubs should fare better. Common examples of this group of plants are yaupon hollies, wax myrtles, and crape myrtles. These species may brown in sections, but ultimately survive. Even if they survive, some of the brown sections will never recover. It is best to wait until summer for new growth to see the extent of the damage. 

Trees with thinner bark, such as fruit trees and Japanese maples, may leaf out in the spring and appear unharmed. Damage to the inner layers of the tree, however, can prevent proper movement of water and nutrients in the tree’s vascular system and can lead to stress symptoms in the summer, appearing as a sudden browning and wilting of the leaves. 

Larger native trees such as red oak and pecan may show dieback or brown sections, but should recover if cared for properly. Live oaks may show browning, but should recover and put out new leaves in spring.

Frost Cracks

Frost cracks are caused not by surface frost, but by fluctuating temperatures, and are most-often seen on the southern sides of trees, which get more direct sunlight. On a cold but sunny day, the sun warms the exposed areas of the tree, causing expansion. When temperatures drop rapidly at night, the bark cools and shrinks faster than the tissue underneath. As the bark shrinks, it splits vertically over areas where the underlying wood is still expanded. Splitting and cracking is most common in areas where there are wounds or other damage that has weakened the bark. Young trees and trees with thin bark are especially susceptible. Frost cracks are rarely fatal and will heal over time, but can be entryways for disease and insects. Stressed trees exhibiting cracks should be given special attention and should be properly fertilized and cared-for to help protect against diseases and insect activity.

CAN I DO ANYTHING TO HELP MY TREES RECOVER FROM THE FREEZING WEATHER?

 For freeze-damaged plants, it is important to provide proper care in the short and long term. 

 WHAT YOU SHOULD DO NOW: WAIT!

  • Watch for signs of damage.
    • Browning and widespread leaf drop will be common.
    • Wait until spring or summer before deciding if a plant is salvageable.
  • Water correctly.
    • Once the ground has thawed out, and temperatures are consistently above freezing, do a deep soak watering for the roots of trees.
      • Use a hose, not sprinklers.
    • Watering can help a tree with damaged leaves to take up nutrients. 

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO IN THE SPRING

  • Have frost-damaged trees evaluated by an local ISA Certified Arborist.
    • Every tree species will react differently to the freeze.
    • Factors like location, soil conditions, and even the movement of the storm front will affect the trees’ ability to survive.

WHAT YOU SHOULD DO OVER THE NEXT FIVE TO SEVEN YEARS

  • Fertilization and proper watering will be key to freeze-damaged trees.
    • Nutrient-rich soil with beneficial bacteria and fungi can speed a tree’s recovery.
  • Do not use herbicides around affected plants.
    • Never use a “weed and feed” product near your trees.
  • Continue proper maintenance trimming and care.
    • Remove dead wood and loose bark, thin for light and air.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! The freezing weather in February 2021 caused damage not just to North Texas’s infrastructure, leaving many without power, water, and shelter, but also to our urban forest. Once the needs of our residents have been met, it’s a good time to think about how best to care for our frost-damaged trees and shrubs. We are here to help you evaluate the damage to your landscaping and make an informed decision about how to proceed. If your trees and shrubs don’t leaf out in the spring, or you have any other questions, let us know! We have a team of ISA Certified Arborists ready to help in any way we can!

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: What Can I Do About Bagworms?

Another installment in our series of posts where Texas Tree Surgeons answers your tree questions. Are you having problems with your trees and want to know what’s wrong? Let us know!

My cedar tree has bagworms. Can you treat for that?

Bagworms are a common pest in North Texas, especially on cedars, junipers, cypresses, and other evergreens, although they can attack broad-leaf trees (like oaks, maples, and elms) as well. While they are common, they may not always be noticeable, especially on evergreens, as they use material from the trees they infest to camouflage their casings. Like other insects, bagworms have a year-long life cycle, and control measures depend on the growth stage of the pest.

What Are Bagworms?

  • Bagworm is the common name for several different species of insect which are actually a type of moth (order Lepidoptera, family Psychidae).
  • The bagworm caterpillars are very small (about 1/25 of an inch long), and spin silk thread which they use to attach themselves to plants and to weave into their bags.
    • Unlike a typical cocoon, the bagworm’s casing functions as a moveable shelter, with the caterpillars exiting to find food and climb up the plant.
  • Once the caterpillar has matured, it undergoes a metamorphosis period before emerging as an adult.
    • Male bagworms resemble small moths while the females are flightless.
  • Male bagworm moths seek out females during mating season, and the female uses her bag to lay eggs.
    • The exact times of caterpillar and adult emergence varies from species to species and is dependent upon the weather.

Can You Treat For Bagworms?

While bagworms are not prevalent every year, once they have infested a tree, they will continue to live there unless controlled.

  • The simplest control method is to remove the bags.
    • They can be pulled off by hand or sprayed off with high-powered water.
    • It it important to dispose of the bags or destroy them, and not just leave them lying on the ground, as the eggs they contain can hatch and re-infest the tree.
  • Insecticide sprays can be used to control bagworms, but are most effective when the caterpillars are small, and can be completely ineffective if the bagworms close their bags, as they do to molt or over the winter.
    • Systemic insecticides may be used in some cases as a preventative measure. Consult a certified arborist to see if this may be a good option for you.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! Bagworms are a widespread nuisance and, while one or two may not harm a mature tree, can cause large-scale defoliation if left unchecked. It is a good idea to remove any bags that you see, whenever you see them. If you have bagworms, and want to see if there might be a chemical treatment option, contact us to set up a visit from a certified arborist. We offer full-service plant health care, including fertilization to help trees stressed by bagworms recover. We look forward to hearing from you!

Can Christmas Trees Grow in North Texas?

While Christmas tree farms are not a common sight around North Texas, and many traditional evergreen trees do not thrive in our urban forest, there are several native evergreen species that can be used to give your yard some year-round color. Additionally, we’ll mention some introduced species that are popular, but don’t always do well in our environment.

Native Texas Evergreens

  • Eastern Redcedar

The eastern redcedar is the closest thing we have to a native Christmas tree in North Texas. With many different cultivars and growing patterns, the eastern redcedar can be a large shrub with a conical shape or be allowed to grow into a larger shade tree. Hardy in a wide range of soils, the eastern redcedar can survive both our sweltering summers and freezing winters. Some people are allergic to eastern redcedar, so it is, unfortunately, not the best choice for every situation. But if you are looking for a live Christmas tree to adorn your yard, eastern redcedar is your best bet.

  • Nellie R. Stevens Holly

There are a wide variety of hollies that are native to Texas, but perhaps the most classically “holly-like” is the Nellie R. Stevens holly. This versatile shrub can grow to as much as 30 feet tall, or be regularly trimmed for a low hedge. The Nellie R. Stevens holly features deep green, glossy foliage and the female specimens produce bright red berries. If you want a winter classic that looks marvelous against snow (when we get snow), the Nellie R. Stevens holly is perfect. Plus, the branches, leaves, and berries can be harvested to make great additions to holiday decor.

  • Yaupon Holly

The yaupon holly doesn’t have quite the traditional holly features of other species, but still features green leaves and red berries. In North Texas, yaupons are more often seem as small ornamental trees, rather than in a hedge, as they have smaller leaves than other shrubs, and can sometimes appear uneven. Different varieties of yaupon have been bred for various landscape uses, including a visually-striking “weeping” cultivar. While the leaves and branches may not be as suitable for holiday decor, the leaves can be brewed into a strong tea that has nearly as much caffeine as coffee. Avoid eating the berries, however, which are mildly toxic.

  • Magnolia

Magnolias are not often thought of around Christmas, but these southern staples are some of the most common evergreens in the area. Magnolias can range in size from majestic, 40-foot-tall examples, with foliage draping the trunk all the way to the ground, to small cultivars that can be used as shrubs. While magnolias are generally well-suited to North Texas, to really thrive, some varieties need extra care. With their large leaves, magnolias can also cause quite a mess during leaf exchange. Still, it is hard to go wrong with magnolias, which is why they are a Texas classic.

Introduced Evergreens

  • Pines (Afghan/Eldarica, Austrian, Japanese)

While there are pine trees native to Texas, they are found in different ecoregions, and are not naturally features of our North Texas blackland prairie. Still, some pine species have been imported to the area, with varying success. Most pines prefer dry, sandy, or rocky soils over the denser, clay-heavy soil of North Texas. A lack of proper drainage can lead to moisture retention in the soil, which can cause some species of pine to develop fungal infestations. With proper monitoring, pines can be cultivated in North Texas, but they rarely thrive, and may be more suited to shrub or ornamental usage.

  • Italian Cypress and Junipers

Once a ubiquitous feature of North Texas landscaping, Italian cypresses and their cousins in the juniper family have developed many health issues in the past few years. Like pines, Italian cypresses are well-suited to sandy, rocky, dry soil, and need proper drainage. This makes them drought-tolerant, and ideal for their Mediterranean home, but also leads to high susceptibility to fungal issues. With high rainfall, cypresses and junipers can develop fungal cankers and brown out quickly. Because of the presence of the responsible fungi in the natural environment, treatment is often ineffective. If you have Italian cypresses or similar species, and have been noticing a decline, it may be time to consider replacing them with evergreens better-suited to our environment.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (evergreen or not) and we love our customers! There are other native Texas trees that are evergreen, such as the Texas mountain laurel and our local favorite live oak, but we thought these would be a good place to start if you are looking for some winter color as a gift or want some landscaping ideas. As always, we are happy to have one of our certified arborists discuss which evergreen would be best-suited for your particular needs. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with those or any other questions you may have, and we hope this holiday season and the year to come are filled with joy for you and your loved ones!