Tag hackberries

Hackberry Leafrollers are Back!

by Texas Tree Surgeons Tree Health Care

 In September 2022, we saw an infestation of small, green worms and their webs on hackberries in North Texas. With the reappearance of the hackberry leafroller moth larvae in August 2023, our recommendations for how to deal with them are a little different.

What’s Changed?

While we usually see hackberry leafroller caterpillar activity in the fall, in 2023, we are beginning to see them while we are still in the heat of summer. Additionally, many hackberries in the DFW are are still recovering from leafroller activity last year and have damaged canopies as a result. The intense heat and drought conditions of 2023 have resulted in an urban forest that is already under extreme stress. Hackberry trees that would normally handle leafrollers easily are now less capable of resisting the pests’ damage. Additionally, there are new recommendations for chemical controls.

What Can We Do about Hackberry Leafrollers in 2023?

While there are no insecticidal treatments that are effective against hackberry leafrollers once the webs appear, it is important to take steps now to ensure that trees bounce back from an infestation and are better prepared for next year.

  • Do not apply a spray insecticide to try to kill the caterpillarsThis is not generally effective and will offer no long-term benefits
  • DO NOT USE HIGH NITROGEN FERTILIZERS.
    • These products cause trees to rapidly put out new growth which can use up the energy stores the trees need to resist pest activity
  • NEVER USE “WEED AND FEED” PRODUCTS near your trees
    • Especially during times of drought and reduced moisture, adding herbicides to the soil can be deadly to trees that are already suffering from a lack of nutrients and other resources
  • If possible, remove any visible caterpillars and their webs
    • Properly dispose of leafroller larvae by burning or by bagging in plastic and putting in the garbage.
  • WATER, WATER, WATER!
    • Proper watering, and even aggressive watering during extended dry periods, is the most important step you can take to bolster your trees’ health
  • Apply soil amendments to help increase the amount of nutrients in dry, desiccated soil
    • Organic products can be utilized that do not contain an excessive amount of nitrogen and will not cause unsustainable growth
    • Installing mulch and compost around your trees is always a good idea, as it helps the soil maintain a constant temperature and moisture level, and it adds nutrient-rich organic material
  • Consider applying systemic insecticides in the late winter or early spring that can help inoculate your trees
    • It is important to introduce insect control measures into the tree’s circulatory system at the appropriate time
  • Contact a local ISA Certified Arborist® to evaluate your trees and make specific recommendations
    • Hackberry trees are prone to a fungal root rot caused by Kretzschmaria deusta and are made more susceptible when stressed by other factors
  • In the spring, evaluate trees to remove any dead wood and assess health

Treat for Leafrollers in the Late Spring or Early Summer

Hackberry leafrollers only have one generation per year, laying eggs on tree leaves in the fall, which hatch the following year. In North Texas, this occurs around May. Within a few weeks of the hatching, a soil-injected product containing acephate can be used, with a possible second application after a few weeks if activity is still seen. If you see leafroller webs this year, contact an arborist to get on the schedule for pesticide application next spring.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! This summer has been rough on all living things in North Texas and we are saddened to see another threat to Hackberry trees has become active while we are still dealing with drought and heat. Our team of certified arborists is ready to come out and assess your hackberries and all your trees to provide recommendations for soil amendments and insect control tailored to their specific needs. Contact us today!

What are These Small, Green Worms Hanging Off My Trees?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care


In the spring and fall, we often get calls about small, green worms or caterpillars hanging on web-like threads from trees and structures. While they may be off-putting, and can be rampant some years, they should not be a cause of serious concern.

So, What are They?

While there are many similar-looking small caterpillars and worms, the variety most commonly seen in North Texas is the cankerworm. These inchworm-like caterpillars are the larvae of moths, usually the hackberry leafroller moth (Sciota celtidella). While the leafroller caterpillars usually emerge in the spring, depending on the weather they can also be active in the fall. The caterpillars spin thin strands of web-like filament that they use to move from tree to tree and to aid in feeding.

Should I be Worried?

While the hackberry leafroller can cause defoliation, there is little cause for concern. Healthy trees in good soil can withstand extensive defoliation. While trees that are under stress may suffer more from unseasonal leaf loss, hackberries are hardy, native trees in North Texas and will likely recover during the next growing season. In areas of high activity, the ground may be temporarily discolored, but this should clear up after the next heavy rain.

All About Hackberries

Hackberry trees are a common sight in DFW, and have even lent their name to several areas and neighborhoods! What we call hackberries may be of a few distinct tree species, but are all in the genus Celtis. Hackberries are fast-growing softwood trees that can often be found as volunteers along fences and hedgerows, grown from seeds dropped by birds and other animals that feed on the trees’ berries. Because of their fast growth and structure, and because they are often overlooked, hackberries can be prone to limb and trunk instabilities. One particular danger is root rot caused by the Kretschmaria deusta fungus.

Should I Do Anything?

Unfortunately, once the caterpillars emerge and begin feeding there are no effective insecticidal treatments. Using a water hose or other method to remove caterpillars from trees and structures can help some, but it is important to make sure that the removed caterpillars are disposed of so that they don’t simply re-infest the tree. Proper maintenance, especially of stressed trees, is usually all that is needed to ensure a hackberry recover from leaf rollers. Water correctly and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, opting instead for organic soil amendments to improve the tree’s microenvironment. As the population of leafroller caterpillars varies from year to year depending on environmental and other factors, preventative treatment is usually not recommended, due to low success rate and risk of over-usage of insecticidal chemicals.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! While it’s always a little startling to see unseasonal leaf drop, losing leaves doesn’t necessarily mean a tree is doomed! We are always happy to have one of our ISA Certified Arborists out to look at your hackberries (or any other trees) and let you know if what you are seeing needs to be addressed. Get in touch today!

Mistletoe

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

For many of us, mistletoe is a welcome feature of the Christmas holidays; a decorative sprig hung in hopes of stealing a kiss. In nature, however, mistletoe is a parasite that can infest many different plant species, leeching water and nutrients, and can be not only unsightly, but hazardous to the health of a tree.

What is Mistletoe?

Mistletoe is the common name for several different species of plants in the order Santalales. In North Texas, and over most of North America, the most-commonly seen species are in the genus Phoradendron, such as Phoradendron tormentosa, or Christmas mistletoe. Several different species of tree can serve as host to mistletoe, including oaks, pecans, and hackberries, but in North Texas, mistletoe is most commonly found in cedar elms. Mistletoe is easily identified by its small, leathery green leaves and white berries. During the fall and winter, when the host tree’s leaves have fallen, mistletoe identification is even easier, as its leaves remain green.

Mistletoe is a hemiparasitic plant, which means that it gets some, but not all, of its nutrients from the host plant. Its leaves allow mistletoe to produce some food internally, but the plant cannot grow by itself. The seeds are most often spread in bird droppings or by other animal contact. The mistetoe’s berries, which contain the seeds, are attractive to many species of bird, but mistletoe berries are toxic to humans and pets.

Is Mistletoe Bad for Trees?

As a parasite, mistletoe does have an adverse effect on its host plant. Mistletoe takes water and nutrients from the host tree’s sap, which can deprive the branches of food. While a low to moderate mistletoe population may have no noticeable impact on the host tree’s health, as infestations grow, interruption to the tree’s nutrient cycle can lead to a loss of vigor. Trees with underlying stressors, such as drought, can be more easily affected by mistletoe.

Can Mistletoe be Removed or Prevented?

Unfortunately, there is no universally effective chemical treatment for mistletoe. Removing affected branches remains the only proven way of managing a mistletoe infestation. Mistletoe develops a root structure in the tree’s sapwood, which means the host branch must be completely removed to prevent regrowth. For larger infestations, however, it may not be practical to remove entire affected limbs. In these cases, removing the surface mistletoe growths can help slow its spread, but will need to be repeated. Whichever method of physical management is used, mistletoe removed before it begins producing berries (that is, during the first three years of its life) can be more easily controlled. Once the mistletoe has fruited, it can spread quickly through bird activity.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our community! While we are always happy to see mistletoe at the holidays, we want to keep our North Texas trees free from its effects. During the fall and winter, after leaf drop, is not only the best time to trim your tree, but is the ideal time to remove mistletoe, when its bright green leaves stand out against the gray and brown branches. Think your tree has mistletoe and want some management options? Give us a call, and one of our ISA Certified Arborists will be happy to take a look!

The Tornado Took All the Leaves Off My Tree; What Can I Do About It?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Extreme Weather, Resources

After a devastating weather event like the tornadoes on October 20, 2019, the damage can be hard to assess, let alone start to repair. While damage to homes and other structures is of utmost importance to the community, addressing the damage to our urban forest, and determining what can be saved, is a key component of recovering after destruction.

Cleaning up downed trees is the first priority in an emergency situation. Fallen trees can prevent first responders and repair crews from accessing damaged utility lines and dangerous structures. Once the trees on the ground have been addressed, however, we must think about those left standing. After a high-wind event like a tornado, the trees left standing often have severe limb breakage and defoliation, or loss of leaves. Both of these issues have short- and long-term consequences, that must be understood.

Tree Safety Is Key

As soon as possible after a storm, owners of damaged trees should take a few steps to ensure there is no further damage to people or property:

  • Clear the area around any damaged trees of vehicles and valuables and take steps to prevent access to the area.
    • If possible, cordon off the entire dripline area (from the trunk to the tips of the branches).
    • If there is a tree that could fall on your home, consider staying out of that part of the house until the tree can be assessed.
  • Once the area has been secured, contact a certified arborist to assess the damage to your trees.
  • Trees that are stable, but have lost a great amount of the canopy will probably need fertilization or other plant health care measures to recover.

Will My Trees Survive Tornado Damage?

Ultimately, the prognosis for a storm-damaged tree depends on several factors, including the species, location, soil condition, and underlying health of the tree. Based on our experience, however, certain North Texas trees should fare better than others.

  • Live Oaks, Cedar Elms, Pecans, Bur Oaks – Uncertain/Wait and See

    • While these species are resilient, we are assessing them on a case-by-case basis.
    • If the tree is stable, we recommend waiting until the spring to see if new growth appears.

  • Red Oaks, Maples – High Risk for Sun Damage

    • Both types of trees are susceptible to sunburn, which dries out the bark, causing it to peel off,  and exposing the sapwood underneath to damage.
    • Even if the tree is stable, the risk of stress and dieback from the winter sun is great.
    • Maples and red oaks that have lost their leaves have little protection from sun exposure.

  • Crape Myrtles – High Chance of Survival

    • As long as the crape myrtles remained in the ground, they should survive.
    • Damage to limbs and safety pruning may alter the shape of the tree, but should not cause any major issues.
    • If increased insect activity is observed, consider using insecticidal soap in the winter or pesticides in the spring.

  • Mulberries – Uncertain/Wait and See

    • Mulberries are fairly hardy, and may survive, but may suffer from dangerous instability.
    • Once tree is stabilized, wait to reassess during the next growing season.

  • Hackberries – Uncertain

    • Have the root area examined by a certified arborist for signs of root rot or kretzschmaria.
    • Even if the tree appears undamaged, the hackberry’s tendency to develop root instability issues may make it a fall risk in the future.

  • Magnolias – Unlikely to Survive

    • Extensive defoliation will likely stress the tree past the point of survival, and prevent recovery from any damage.
      • As evergreens, magnolias depend on their leaves year-round.

  • Ornamentals – Likely to Survive/May Want to Replace

    • Smaller trees and ornamentals seem to fare better in high winds, as they are able to flex with the pressure.
      • One risk to smaller trees is being damaged by falling debris from larger trees or structures. If there is no physical damage, the tree is probably stable.
    • Many smaller ornamentals are understory trees, used to shade from larger species.
      • As with red oaks, risk of subsequent damage from sun exposure is high.
    • Even if the tree survives, it may not be as well-suited for its space after the damage, and owners may prefer to replace it.
      • Defoliation or wind damage may have irreparably altered the shape.

What Should I Do Now?

Whatever kind of tree you have, and however it has been damaged, contact a certified arborist to determine the best steps to take. We highly recommend fertilization for all trees impacted by storms, especially in our urban soils. If your trees are going to recover, they will need all the nutrients they can get. If your landscaping has been disturbed by the tornado, now might be a good time to adjust your mulching practices to help enrich the soil going forward. If you need guidance, we are always here to help.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers. We are shocked and saddened to see the widespread damage and devastation after the recent tornadoes, and our hearts go out to all those who have lost their homes. So much of our beautiful urban forest seems to have been uprooted or destroyed, and we want to do what we can to preserve what remains. We hope this overview has been helpful, and we are always available to come out to assess your specific trees for damage, stability issues, health issues, or to give you our recommendations for post-storm care. Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have.

What is Stump Grinding?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Removal

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, our arborists also evaluate the site for stump grinding. While having the stump ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the stump at the same time as having the tree removed. Stump grinding allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The stump grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about stump grinding.

Non-natural material, such as this lighting cable, may reduce grinding depth.

How deep CAN THE stump grinder go?

We generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper grinding is needed, it can be requested, although the price of stump grinding may increase. The depth to which a stump can be ground is subject to some limitations, however.

  • The stump-grinding blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.
  • A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Dallas area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.
  • Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the stump grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:
    • Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a stump (such as a tree ring)
    • Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree stump
    • Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material
    • Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses
  • We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when grinding a stump, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

Grinder blade in action; grind depth can be limited by blade size.

What is left after a stump is ground?

As the blade grinds the stump and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by stump grinding can take up a much greater volume than the original stump. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from stump grinding is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the stump once was.

Stump grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after stump grinding, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

A stump of about 50 inches before grinding…

…the mulch from the same stump after grinding. The mulch left after after a stump is ground makes a great addition to flower beds and compost piles.

Will the tree come back after A stump is ground?

Even with stump grinding, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after stump grinding can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

Can I replant after a stump is ground?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the stump ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

When a tree falls, the root and stump area can be difficult to grind.

Can every stump be ground?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the stump cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the stump grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after grinding an uprooted stump may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when stump grinding can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a stump grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” stump grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple stumps in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the stump grinder.

How much does stump grinding cost?

The cost of stump grinding is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the stump, the location of the stump, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a stump grinding price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other stumps you may want to have ground.

How DO I MEASURE A STUMP?

The base cost for stump grinding is determined by the diameter of the stump in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the stump edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the stump grinding is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.

Surface roots need to be included in the stump measurement.

This is a 75-inch stump, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground.

Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a stump can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

Can the stump grinder reach my stump?

Our standard stump grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the stump. The stump grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the grinding blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the stump is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller stump grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

Stump grinder blade

Can i just leave the stump?

Iit is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a stump after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining stump as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the stump is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing stump.

Some homeowners prefer to let a stump decompose naturally over time. Old stumps can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the stump breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a stump is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the stump and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial stump killer can accelerate stump dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the stump with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

A stump left to decay naturally. The tree was removed approximately 5 years ago. (Photo courtesy Tom Davis)

More Questions about stumps? Let us know!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.