The Tornado Took All the Leaves Off My Tree; What Can I Do About It?

After a devastating weather event like the tornadoes on October 20, 2019, the damage can be hard to assess, let alone start to repair. While damage to homes and other structures is of utmost importance to the community, addressing the damage to our urban forest, and determining what can be saved, is a key component of recovering after destruction.

Cleaning up downed trees is the first priority in an emergency situation. Fallen trees can prevent first responders and repair crews from accessing damaged utility lines and dangerous structures. Once the trees on the ground have been addressed, however, we must think about those left standing. After a high-wind event like a tornado, the trees left standing often have severe limb breakage and defoliation, or loss of leaves. Both of these issues have short- and long-term consequences, that must be understood.

Tree Safety Is Key

As soon as possible after a storm, owners of damaged trees should take a few steps to ensure there is no further damage to people or property:

  • Clear the area around any damaged trees of vehicles and valuables and take steps to prevent access to the area.
    • If possible, cordon off the entire dripline area (from the trunk to the tips of the branches).
    • If there is a tree that could fall on your home, consider staying out of that part of the house until the tree can be assessed.
  • Once the area has been secured, contact a certified arborist to assess the damage to your trees.
  • Trees that are stable, but have lost a great amount of the canopy will probably need fertilization or other plant health care measures to recover.

Will My Trees Survive Tornado Damage?

Ultimately, the prognosis for a storm-damaged tree depends on several factors, including the species, location, soil condition, and underlying health of the tree. Based on our experience, however, certain North Texas trees should fare better than others.

  • Live Oaks, Cedar Elms, Pecans, Bur Oaks – Uncertain/Wait and See

    • While these species are resilient, we are assessing them on a case-by-case basis.
    • If the tree is stable, we recommend waiting until the spring to see if new growth appears.
  • Red Oaks, Maples – High Risk for Sun Damage

    • Both types of trees are susceptible to sunburn, which dries out the bark, causing it to peel off,  and exposing the sapwood underneath to damage.
    • Even if the tree is stable, the risk of stress and dieback from the winter sun is great.
    • Maples and red oaks that have lost their leaves have little protection from sun exposure.
  • Crape Myrtles – High Chance of Survival

    • As long as the crape myrtles remained in the ground, they should survive.
    • Damage to limbs and safety pruning may alter the shape of the tree, but should not cause any major issues.
    • If increased insect activity is observed, consider using insecticidal soap in the winter or pesticides in the spring.
  • Mulberries – Uncertain/Wait and See

    • Mulberries are fairly hardy, and may survive, but may suffer from dangerous instability.
    • Once tree is stabilized, wait to reassess during the next growing season.
  • Hackberries – Uncertain

    • Have the root area examined by a certified arborist for signs of root rot or kretzschmaria.
    • Even if the tree appears undamaged, the hackberry’s tendency to develop root instability issues may make it a fall risk in the future.
  • Magnolias – Unlikely to Survive

    • Extensive defoliation will likely stress the tree past the point of survival, and prevent recovery from any damage.
      • As evergreens, magnolias depend on their leaves year-round.
  • Ornamentals – Likely to Survive/May Want to Replace

    • Smaller trees and ornamentals seem to fare better in high winds, as they are able to flex with the pressure.
      • One risk to smaller trees is being damaged by falling debris from larger trees or structures. If there is no physical damage, the tree is probably stable.
    • Many smaller ornamentals are understory trees, used to shade from larger species.
      • As with red oaks, risk of subsequent damage from sun exposure is high.
    • Even if the tree survives, it may not be as well-suited for its space after the damage, and owners may prefer to replace it.
      • Defoliation or wind damage may have irreparably altered the shape.

What Should I Do Now?

Whatever kind of tree you have, and however it has been damaged, contact a certified arborist to determine the best steps to take. We highly recommend fertilization for all trees impacted by storms, especially in our urban soils. If your trees are going to recover, they will need all the nutrients they can get. If your landscaping has been disturbed by the tornado, now might be a good time to adjust your mulching practices to help enrich the soil going forward. If you need guidance, we are always here to help.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers. We are shocked and saddened to see the widespread damage and devastation after the recent tornadoes, and our hearts go out to all those who have lost their homes. So much of our beautiful urban forest seems to have been uprooted or destroyed, and we want to do what we can to preserve what remains. We hope this overview has been helpful, and we are always available to come out to assess your specific trees for damage, stability issues, health issues, or to give you our recommendations for post-storm care. Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have.

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: What Are the Bumps on My Pecan Leaves?

Another installment in our series of posts where Texas Tree Surgeons answers your tree questions. Are you having problems with your trees and want to know what’s wrong? Let us know!

As we move into summer, there are several tree health issues that can present themselves. One of the common questions we get around this time is about bumps on pecan leaves. The bumps are the result of insect activity that may or may not affect the pecan fruits themselves. Unfortunately, once the bumps appear, there is no effective control for the pests. Still, knowing what is afflicting the tree means you can make preparations for treatment next year.

Pecan Phylloxera

The insect that causes the bumps to appear on pecan leaves is called pecan phylloxera (Phylloxera devastatrix). Pecan phylloxera is a small, aphid-like insect that feeds on the shoots, leaves, and buds of the pecan tree. There are two main types of pecan phylloxera: one that affects leaves only, and one that affects leaves and nuts. The leaf phylloxera can cause defoliation but generally do no greater harm to the tree. The other kind, however, can cause severe leaf drop and inedible fruits. As both kinds of phylloxera cause leaf bumps, called “galls,” it can be hard to tell which one is affecting your pecans. However, if you have a lot of leaves falling, there is a good chance that it is the more invasive phylloxera.

No matter what particular kind of pecan phylloxera is present, the insects follow a similar life cycle. In the summer, eggs are laid in the bark of the pecan tree. The eggs hatch in the spring and the young insects move to the shoots and buds, where they begin to feed, forming galls on the new leaves for protection. Once the phylloxera have matured, they emerge from the galls to mate and lay eggs for the next year.

Treatment for Pecan Phylloxera

Because of their life cycle, the only effective time to treat for pecan phylloxera is in the spring, just as the leaves are budding. Applying insecticide at bud break can prevent the phylloxera from becoming established in the new leaves. Once the galls have formed, the insects are protected from pesticides, and cannot be effectively treated.

Pecan phylloxera moves slowly and may not affect every tree in an area every year. Variations in weather and tree growth can greatly affect the ability of the insects to survive. Still, if you have bumps on your pecan leaves, it is best to plan for insecticidal treatment for pecan phylloxera the following spring.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! We know it can be frustrating to find out about a problem too late to do anything about it. Hopefully, learning about pecan phylloxera now will help you be prepared for treatment in the spring. If you have questions about bumps on your pecan leaves, let us know, and a certified arborist can confirm what is affecting your tree and what you can do about it!

After the Storm…

Trees that survived the severe storm damage are going to need special care over the next few years. The loss of canopy will reduce the trees’ ability to photosynthesize for food and to take up water. We are entering the hottest part of the year; after the rains have passed, increased watering and fertilization are key. It is up to tree owners to supplement the nutrients that trees need, but can no longer absorb from their environment. Your arborist can discuss fertilization options, including our comprehensive, year-round Plant Health Care programs. Contact us to make sure you are taking the best care of your damaged trees.

Extensive defoliation, or loss of leaves, is common after severe storms with heavy rain, wind, and hail. While the leaves should grow back, the tree’s ability to take up nutrients and water from the soil is greatly impaired

While fertilization goes a long way toward helping damaged trees recover, they are also more susceptible to disease and pest infestations. With the recent wet weather, fungal issues are increasingly common, but insect activity and environmental stress are also a danger. Over the coming months and years, we expect to see:

Tree Failure and Death in Some Cases

While trees have the ability to store energy to last them for years, as these stores are depleted due to damage and infestation, the trees will slowly die.

Oak Wilt

Already a major concern in North Texas, the oak wilt-carrying beetles are drawn to open wounds and damaged areas. Until we have temperatures consistently above 90 degrees, the beetles and the fungus they carry will remain active.

Sunburn and Sun Scald

With reduced leafy canopy, the branches and trunks of trees will be exposed to more direct sunlight, which can cause further damage. Red oaks are especially prone to sun-related damage.

More Broken Limbs and Tree Damage

Trees grow in response to their surrounding, especially other trees. When one tree in a group is damaged or removed, other trees are exposed to the environment in ways they have not been before. As future storms and wind move through the area, the newly-exposed trees may not be adapted to their exposed conditions, and may not be able to withstand the elements. Ask your arborist to see if tree cabling and bracing might be recommended to reinforce your trees.

As you are considering fertilization, also talk to your arborist about treatment for fungi, bacteria, and pests. While treatments have varying effectiveness, depending on the specific situation, your arborist can discuss options for your trees. Contact us to have an arborist come out for a post-storm assessment.

After such a loss, the best remedial measure is to plant new trees. The best time to plant trees is the winter, so use the intervening months to consider where and what kind of trees to plant. It may not be the best idea to replace a removed tree with the same species. Talk to your arborist about types of trees that would thrive in your particular conditions, and to discuss the best place in your yard to plant a tree. (Even if you have had a tree removed, we don’t recommend replanting in the same place, as underground root systems may hinder the new tree’s growth.) Choose native species that can better cope with our North Texas weather. If you don’t have room for more trees, consider supporting a community organization that is replanting for those who need them.

The storm on Sunday, June 9th, 2019, damaged thousands of trees in Dallas, Richardson, Carrollton, Irving, and the surrounding areas. For many, this was the quickest, most devastating storm in recent memory. According to WFAA-TV meteorologist Pete Delkus, the winds increased to 63 MPH in only 5 minutes, with peak gusts at 71 MPH a few minutes later.

When the storm hit, one of our arborists was trapped in her home due to fallen branches, two staff members had flooded cars, two arborists were out of town, and our operations manager was stuck at a gas station, out of gas, waiting for the power to come back on. Our office was without power for three days, and those of us with power worked from home, the rest on the road, despite spotty cell service. Still, we tried to respond as quickly as we could, and have been able to assess over 700 properties for damage and deal with storm damage at nearly 200 homes. Visit our Facebook page for some photos of the damage we have seen!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees, and we hate to see such widespread damage. We are proud to call North Texas home, and we are grateful for the opportunity to care for your trees, and the continued support of our community. If you ever have any questions or concerns about your trees, please let us know!

Is There a Difference Between Tree Trimming, Tree Cutting, and Tree Pruning?

When people talk about tree care, they can use different words to talk about the same thing. You may hear “trim,” “prune,” or “cut,” just as you may hear “limb” or “branch.” At Texas Tree Surgeons, we are often asked the difference between a branch and a limb, or between tree pruning and tree cutting. Unfortunately, there is no industry standard definition for many common terms, and that can cause confusion.

A NOTE

If you visit our Facebook page, you may notice that we are categorized as a “tree cutting” business. In other places, we may be listed as “landscaping services.” Unfortunately, because there is no universal standard term for what we do, we have to find the best fit under the circumstances. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we use the term “tree trimming” to refer to the work we do.

Proper Tree Trimming Is the Key to Healthy Trees

Proper tree trimming should remove any dead or broken branches, raise the canopy and thin the crown, to allow light and air to pass freely through the tree.

Trees are living organisms, and every cut that’s made on a tree has long-term effects. Additionally, every tree is unique and has different needs dictated by its environment and history. A heavy trim may have no adverse effects on a large, healthy tree, but a tree that is under pre-existing stress or has a potential for health issues might be irreparably damaged by removing too much canopy. Furthermore, safety and stability issues may restrict the amount and type of trimming that can be performed. It is important when trimming trees to take all of these factors into account, as well as to be mindful of the weather and seasons. Improperly trimming a tree at the wrong type of year can lead to severe decline and death. 

While there are no universal standards for tree trimming, there are two sets of guidelines for the tree service industry that we at Texas Tree Surgeons follow. The first is from the International Society of Arboriculture, or ISA. The ISA is the premier international credentialing and membership organization for the tree care industry. In addition to establishing the Certified Arborist and Board Certified Master Arborist credentials, the ISA provides a wealth of resources for tree owners. The ISA guide to tree trimming (they use the term “pruning”) covers the basics of how to properly maintain mature trees. In addition to the ISA, the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA) oversees tree service providers in the United States. In collaboration with the American National Safety Institute (ANSI), the TCIA has developed comprehensive guidelines for tree care and management. These guidelines provide the basis for all of our work proposals and trimming. Adherence to these guidelines is the best way to care for trees of all kinds, and all our certified arborists are equipped to assess individual trees and determine the best — and healthiest — way to care for them. 

Trimming visible growth is only part of tree care. Without a proper understanding of what’s happening below the ground and underneath the bark, a beautiful trim is of little use. Certified Arborists are trained to spot the signs of environmental stressors, diseases, and insects. Poor drainage and soil condition, competition with turf grass, and proximity to structures can all affect a tree’s growth. Beyond just trimming a tree, certified arborists are able to evaluate the tree holistically in order to provide the best care possible. 

Whether It’s “Tree Trimming” or “Tree Cutting,” Cheaper Isn’t Always Better

Most neighborhoods, especially after storms, will see tree trimmers going door-to-door soliciting work. While it may seem easier, and is often cheaper, to hire these crews for tree work, it is important to consider the long-term costs and complications. Tree trimmers with only a small crew and one truck may have lower overhead, but they may also have insufficient insurance to cover any incidents. Furthermore, these crews may not have the training or experience to properly trim trees. We have seen numerous large trees “lion-tailed,” or even “topped,” with all the canopy removed! While the trees may recover, they are forever changed. Professional arborists know the proper way to trim and thin trees for light, without leaving stubbed limbs and unstable trunks.

Many people are surprised that a proper and healthy tree trim often removes less than they expect. According to established guidelines, it is best to remove no more than 25% of the visible canopy. A regular trim may only remove as little as 15%, removing mostly interior growth. In addition to being more precise, proper trims may take longer or be more labor-intensive, accounting for cost differences. Some companies use terms like “Level 1” or “Level 2” trim; these terms are not universal. If you don’t understand what something means, ask! At Texas Tree Surgeons, we are always happy to explain the details of our work, and your arborist is always available, before, during, and after the job is done.

“Topping” a tree, or removing all visible canopy, does serious harm to the natural growth of the tree and can cause long-lasting damage.

Ultimately, what is important is the tree care itself, not what it is called. To give your trees the best chance to grow and thrive, look for tree trimming companies that employ certified arborists. If you have any doubts, ask for their certification number, or look for the arborist’s name on the ISA website. A properly-trained arborist should never recommend topping or lion-tailing, and should take proper precautions during oak wilt season (February-July). Never be afraid to get a second opinion. Give us a call anytime, and we are happy to have a certified arborist come out and discuss what work needs to be done and provide a free quote!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that educating our community lays the best foundation for caring for our urban forest. If you have any tree questions don’t hesitate to get in touch!

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

Do My Trees Really Need Fertilizer?

Is mulch really that important? As discussed in our article on proper mulching, there is a big difference between urban soil and trees’ natural habitat. Mulching can greatly improve the quality of soil around a tree, but it is not always possible to properly mulch around every tree. In those cases, or when faster results are desired, fertilizers can be used to increase the nutrient content of soil to better enable a tree to thrive.

Why Do My Trees Need Fertilizer?

For most of North Texas, our urban soil is a dark-gray or black alkaline clay. This type of soil is prone to compaction, and often cracks during long dry spells. Furthermore, much of the area sits on relatively shallow limestone bedrock. These conditions create a high competition for nutrients in the top layer of soil, as roots may be unable to grow deeper due to compaction and rock.

A note about tree roots:

Generally, tree roots serve two main functions: absorbing nutrients and providing stability. The stabilizing roots are the ones people most often think of, as they are usually larger than the feeding roots and can grow deep into the ground. The feeding roots, on the other hand, are finer and are primarily located in the top several inches of soil, where the most nutrients are usually found. So, when providing nutrients to a tree, it is critical to fertilize the shallow feeding roots, and less so to reach the deeper stabilizing root system.

Proper mulching and using compost to improve the soil condition are key to providing trees with an environment in which they can thrive. Most trees and shrubs would also benefit from fertilization, especially when in competition with turf grass, or when there is inorganic material surrounding a tree that prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

What is the Best Way to Fertilize Trees?

While all fertilizers need water to be activated and be absorbed by plants, they may come in a liquid or solid form and may be applied to the soil surface, underneath the soil, to the leaves or of a tree, or even injected directly into the trunk.

For surface application, the area around the trunk is heavily saturated with fertilizer solution (a “basal drench” or “root drench”). This allows the fertilizer to reach the main nutrient-absorbing roots of the tree, which usually are in the top several inches of soil. This is one of the methods we use at Texas Tree Surgeons. However, a soil drench may not be effective when there is turf or ground cover around a tree, and subsurface application may be necessary (see below).

Liquid fertilizers can also be injected into the soil using a pressurized system that pierces through groundcover and turf, a technique often called “deep root” fertilization. Injection is the preferred method for fertilizing trees when they are surrounded by turf grass or another ground cover. The high-pressure feeder rod pierces below surface roots and injects fertilizer solution a few inches below the ground, where there is less competition, and the tree can more easily access the nutrients. Also, the high pressure used can help aerate areas of compaction, improving overall soil quality. At Texas Tree Surgeons we use deep-root fertilization when a tree is closely surrounded by turf grass or other material that prevents the roots of the tree from reaching the soil surface.

A feeder rod is used to inject fertilizer in the root zone of a tree.

A note about synthetic turf:

The use of synthetic turf around a tree can prevent proper soil development and make fertilizer difficult to apply. Usually, the synthetic turf needs to be pulled back from the root zone of the tree to allow for a soil drench, or the deep-root feeder rod will have to puncture through the turf and any substrate to reach the real soil. Additionally, synthetic turf can have lasting negative effects on trees, as the material prevents nutrients from reaching the soil.

In certain cases, direct application of a liquid fertilizer to a tree might be used. Using a foliar spray can make nutrients immediately available to leaves to aid photosynthesis. Trunk injections can introduce nutrients directly into the tree’s vascular system, bypassing the roots. These two methods are not long-term solutions, however, as they do nothing to improve soil quality. Once the applied fertilizer has been utilized, the tree will return to its previous state if a consistent supply of nutrients is not provided.

What Kind of Fertilizer is Best for Trees?

While there are many commercially-available fertilizers, they are not all equally effective, and care should be taken before applying. Fertilizers engineered for turf grass development may not help trees, and may, in fact, harm them. So-called “weed and feed” fertilizers contain herbicides that can target woody-stem plants. If applied in the root zone of a tree or shrub, these herbicides can cause stress or even dieback.

Subsurface application of dry fertilizers, including the use of fertilizer spikes, is usually inadvisable. Even when properly watered, pockets of fertilizer material or spikes do not readily break down, and cannot effectively move through the soil. As a result, the soil develops areas of high chemical concentration surrounded by areas that lack nutrients. This chemical imbalance can lead to severe fertilizer burn and can cause more harm than good.

Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizer

Inorganic fertilizer is a solid or liquid product that is chemically formulated to add specific concentrations of nutrients to the soil. Inorganic fertilizers are generally labeled with three numbers (called “NPK” numbers), which indicate the relative content of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, in that order. Inorganic fertilizers are used for their consistency and because they generally contain higher concentrations of NPK macronutrients than organic materials. However, because of the high percentages of certain chemicals, inorganic fertilizers are more likely to cause “fertilizer burn” because of over-saturation of a particular element. Furthermore, runoff from chemical fertilizers can contaminate water and pose a hazard to wildlife. Before using an inorganic fertilizer, it is important to understand exactly what the soil needs, and apply the appropriate amount. Soil testing, such as provided by Texas A&M, can give a guideline for selecting an inorganic fertilizer that is suited to a particular situation.

Organic fertilizers are composed of natural organic matter. While mulch and compost can be considered organic fertilizers, the term usually refers to a solid or liquid that is produced to be a soil amendment. Compost tea, bone meal, manure, and biosolids are common examples of organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers can contain both macronutrients (usually nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, or “NPK”) and micronutrients, but the concentrations of these nutrients are not always specified on the label. Additionally, some organic fertilizers may contain helpful microorganisms (such as bacteria and fungi) that can further enhance soil quality. Because organic fertilizers are produced through natural processes, they generally have lower NPK concentrations than inorganic. As a result, organic fertilizers are less likely to cause fertilizer burn and do not pose the same risk to the environment as inorganics.

A note about compost:

Compost is partially-decomposed organic material that is added to soil to increase nutrient concentration. Like mulch, compost can improve overall soil composition, unlike fertilizers, which generally help plants, but do not have long-term effects on soil quality. Compost and mulch can be combined with soil amendments like fertilizers to help plants in the short-term and improve the soil over time. If you live in an urban area and don’t have the time or space to compost yourself, consider using a compost co-op. If you are in the Dallas area, we recommend Turn Compost. Check out their website to see if they service your neighborhood!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we have three distinct fertilizer and soil amendment formulations that are applied in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. Each seasonal treatment is designed to give trees the nutrients they need at each stage of the growing season. We can also add specific micronutrients (such as iron) for particular trees. Contact one of our certified arborists to get an estimate for a year-round fertilization program!

Crape Myrtles: Facts and Guides

Crape myrtles (also crepe myrtles), seen by many as something between a bush and a tree, are often misunderstood and, as a result, not well cared for. Properly maintained, however, the crape myrtle, a beautiful and hardy flowering tree, can be a striking addition to a landscape.

Although native to South Asia, crape myrtles have been cultivated in North America since the 18th century. Naturally a multi-stemmed bush, the crape myrtle has been bred into many different species and subspecies, each with its own unique characteristics. The species most commonly found in North Texas is Lagerstroemia indica, which can flower in a range of colors. Left to grow, this species of crape myrtle can reach a height of about 20 feet, with a spread of about 20 feet as well. Other varieties of crape myrtle may exhibit different growing patterns and sizes at maturity.

Basic Care for Crape Myrtles

The crape myrtle is prized for its hardiness, low maintenance, and colorful blooms. Crape myrtles can thrive in many types of soil, such as the alkaline, dark clay that is present in much of North Texas. Crape myrtles are also drought resistant, although they can be susceptible to over-watering or poor drainage.

Aside from proper trimming and removal of dead plant matter from crevices between the trunks, crape myrtles can often benefit from fertilization, and may need professional care when common health issues arise. Fortunately, few of the common crape myrtle health issues pose a serious threat to the survival of the tree. Attentive pruning is often all that is required to keep a crape myrtles healthy and vigorous for decades.

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers, line trimmers, and other activity. Planting ground cover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Common Crape Myrtle Issues

Topping

What the crape myrtle meme

This is a common practice in North Texas that leads to twiggy new growth from the ends of the trunks, and doesn’t help create more blooms.

Topping is bad, and we have a dedicated blog on this topic.

Physical Damage

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers and other tools. Planting groundcover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

The crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is the most common crape myrtle pest. This tiny insect feeds on the sap of the crape myrtle and produces a liquid called honeydew, that can often be observed dripping from crape myrtles in the spring. While the aphids generally pose no serious threat to the health of the plant, their honeydew can lead to the growth of sooty mold (see below). Aphids can be controlled with systemic treatments or insecticidal soaps.

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is the name given to several different species of fungi that grow on the surface of some plants. When crape myrtles have aphid or scale infestations, the honeydew produced by the insects provides nourishment for the fungal spores to grow. As the gray fungal mat expands, it can cover leaves and branches. Sooty mold is mostly just an unsightly cosmetic affliction, but in extreme cases can interfere with proper photosynthesis in the leaves. The best way to control sooty mold is to manage the underlying insect activity and honeydew production. As the mold dies, it will be washed away by rain.

Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

While the crape myrtle aphid has likely been present with the tree since it arrived in North America, issues with scale insects have only recently arisen in crape myrtles. Crape myrtle bark scale (“CMBS,” Eriococcus lagerstroemia) was first identified in Texas in 2004, and is now a common pest. CMBS is a miniscule insect that appears as a felt-like gray or white crust on crape myrtle branches, often on the underside away from the sun. When pressed or scraped, CMBS leaves behind a pinkish residue. While research is still ongoing, systemic insecticides (neonictinoids) are currently the most effective control for CMBS. Additionally, washing the affected areas with a solution of mild detergent and water can remove the insects, and slow their spread.

Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.
Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another fungus (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) that affects crape myrtles. Unlike sooty mold, however, powdery mildew can pose a greater risk to the health of the plant. Powdery mildew appears as a grayish-white growth on young plant tissue. Only a few spores are needed, often transmitted by the wind, to take hold and begin an infestation on a crape myrtle. Cooler temperatures and moderate to high humidity are the idea growing conditions for powdery mildew, so it is most active in the spring and fall. Overwatering, overfertilization, and poor air circulation can contribute a crape myrtle’s susceptibility to the fungus. As the fungus spreads, it can cause new affected growth to die, with leaves curling and dropping. Extreme cases can cause extensive damage. Fortunately, there are several powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of crape myrtle. Even without a natural resistance, powdery mildew can be managed or prevented by allowing crape myrtles to receive full sun, by proper pruning for light and air flow, and by following best practices for watering and fertilizing. Growth that is affected by the powdery mildew fungus should be removed in the fall. Generally, systemic fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew. However, a certified arborist can properly diagnose the extent of a powdery mildew infection, and provide appropriate treatment recommendations.

Crape myrtles are a beautiful and important part of our North Texas urban forest. While officially the Texas State “Shrub,” crape myrtles are versatile trees that come in many sizes and varieties. We hope this information will help our community better understand and care for their crape myrtles. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs!), and we love our customers. As always, let us know if you have any questions about your crape myrtles, or any other trees.