Category Resources

Crape Myrtles: Facts and Guides

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Owner's Guide

Crape myrtles (also crepe myrtles), seen by many as something between a bush and a tree, are often misunderstood and, as a result, not well cared for. Properly maintained, however, the crape myrtle, a beautiful and hardy flowering tree, can be a striking addition to a landscape.

Although native to South Asia, crape myrtles have been cultivated in North America since the 18th century. Naturally a multi-stemmed bush, the crape myrtle has been bred into many different species and subspecies, each with its own unique characteristics. The species most commonly found in North Texas is Lagerstroemia indica, which can flower in a range of colors. Left to grow, this species of crape myrtle can reach a height of about 20 feet, with a spread of about 20 feet as well. Other varieties of crape myrtle may exhibit different growing patterns and sizes at maturity.

Basic Care for Crape Myrtles

The crape myrtle is prized for its hardiness, low maintenance, and colorful blooms. Crape myrtles can thrive in many types of soil, such as the alkaline, dark clay that is present in much of North Texas. Crape myrtles are also drought resistant, although they can be susceptible to over-watering or poor drainage.

Aside from proper trimming and removal of dead plant matter from crevices between the trunks, crape myrtles can often benefit from fertilization, and may need professional care when common health issues arise. Fortunately, few of the common crape myrtle health issues pose a serious threat to the survival of the tree. Attentive pruning is often all that is required to keep a crape myrtles healthy and vigorous for decades.

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers, line trimmers, and other activity. Planting ground cover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Common Crape Myrtle Issues

Topping

What the crape myrtle meme

This is a common practice in North Texas that leads to twiggy new growth from the ends of the trunks, and doesn’t help create more blooms.

Topping is bad, and we have a dedicated blog on this topic.

Physical Damage

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers and other tools. Planting groundcover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

The crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is the most common crape myrtle pest. This tiny insect feeds on the sap of the crape myrtle and produces a liquid called honeydew, that can often be observed dripping from crape myrtles in the spring. While the aphids generally pose no serious threat to the health of the plant, their honeydew can lead to the growth of sooty mold (see below). Aphids can be controlled with systemic treatments or insecticidal soaps.

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is the name given to several different species of fungi that grow on the surface of some plants. When crape myrtles have aphid or scale infestations, the honeydew produced by the insects provides nourishment for the fungal spores to grow. As the gray fungal mat expands, it can cover leaves and branches. Sooty mold is mostly just an unsightly cosmetic affliction, but in extreme cases can interfere with proper photosynthesis in the leaves. The best way to control sooty mold is to manage the underlying insect activity and honeydew production. As the mold dies, it will be washed away by rain.

Crape Myrtle Bark Scale

While the crape myrtle aphid has likely been present with the tree since it arrived in North America, issues with scale insects have only recently arisen in crape myrtles. Crape myrtle bark scale (“CMBS,” Eriococcus lagerstroemia) was first identified in Texas in 2004, and is now a common pest. CMBS is a miniscule insect that appears as a felt-like gray or white crust on crape myrtle branches, often on the underside away from the sun. When pressed or scraped, CMBS leaves behind a pinkish residue. While research is still ongoing, systemic insecticides (neonictinoids) are currently the most effective control for CMBS. Additionally, washing the affected areas with a solution of mild detergent and water can remove the insects, and slow their spread.

Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.
Lady beetles (ladybugs) are a good natural control for aphids and scale. Here, the white patches are scale.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another fungus (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) that affects crape myrtles. Unlike sooty mold, however, powdery mildew can pose a greater risk to the health of the plant. Powdery mildew appears as a grayish-white growth on young plant tissue. Only a few spores are needed, often transmitted by the wind, to take hold and begin an infestation on a crape myrtle. Cooler temperatures and moderate to high humidity are the idea growing conditions for powdery mildew, so it is most active in the spring and fall. Overwatering, overfertilization, and poor air circulation can contribute a crape myrtle’s susceptibility to the fungus. As the fungus spreads, it can cause new affected growth to die, with leaves curling and dropping. Extreme cases can cause extensive damage. Fortunately, there are several powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of crape myrtle. Even without a natural resistance, powdery mildew can be managed or prevented by allowing crape myrtles to receive full sun, by proper pruning for light and air flow, and by following best practices for watering and fertilizing. Growth that is affected by the powdery mildew fungus should be removed in the fall. Generally, systemic fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew. However, a certified arborist can properly diagnose the extent of a powdery mildew infection, and provide appropriate treatment recommendations.

Crape myrtles are a beautiful and important part of our North Texas urban forest. While officially the Texas State “Shrub,” crape myrtles are versatile trees that come in many sizes and varieties. We hope this information will help our community better understand and care for their crape myrtles. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs!), and we love our customers. As always, let us know if you have any questions about your crape myrtles, or any other trees.

What is Oak Wilt?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

What is Oak Wilt?

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

Oak wilt, and the precautions that need to be taken to help prevent the spread of this fungal disease, may be the most often talked-about aspect of tree health care in Texas. Throughout the state, tree owners and communities are challenged by the potential devastation to all species of oak tree. In some areas, there are ordinances in place that restrict oak trimming in order to prevent the spread of the disease. Other areas have no formal regulation, and this can lead to a lack of awareness and a potential for widespread infection.

While oak wilt is a serious threat to our North Texas urban forest, there are simple steps that everyone can take to lessen its impact.

What kind of Disease is oak wilt?

Oak wilt is an infectious disease caused by a fungus (Bretziella fagacearum*). All oaks (genus Quercus) are susceptible to oak wilt, but different species may react differently to the fungus. Oak wilt is a vascular disease, and infects the whole tree, even if only one part is symptomatic. As the fungus spread through the tree, it blocks the transmission of nutrients to the canopy, causing the characteristic “wilt,” or dieback.

In live oaks, infected leaves often show yellow-brown veins, even while still on the tree. In red oaks, leaves may simply wilt and brown. This process can lead to an autumn-like coloration during the summer. Additionally, fungal mats may form underneath the bark of red oaks, leading to cracking, peeling bark and a rotting smell.

While visual inspection is a strong indicator of the presence of the oak wilt fungus, laboratory confirmation may be required. The Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory offers testing for oak wilt and many other diseases. For more information on how to submit a sample, see this post or contact your arborist.

Live oak leaves showing the venal necrosis characteristic of oak wilt

How do trees get oak wilt?

The most common ways for the oak wilt fungus to be transmitted are by insect activity and root grafting. Insects can infect a tree through any exposed wood (not covered by bark) or open wound (such as a pruning cut, broken limb, or where branches rub against each other). In situations with oaks planted in close proximity, the fungus can be transmitted from one tree to another via underground root grafting. As roots make contact with other roots, they grow together and share pathogens.

Different species of oak can contract and spread oak wilt by different methods.

RED OAKS

Red oaks (Texas, Shumard, blackjack, water) are extremely susceptible to infection through insect activity. Red oaks are often the primary mode by which oak wilt gains a foothold in a new area. The oak wilt fungus thrives in red oaks and creates visible fungal mats underneath the bark. These spore mats attract insects; sap beetles of the Nitidulidae family are the most common type. Beetles feed in the infected area and become covered with particles from the spore mats. Drawn to exposed wood on healthy trees, the beetles transfer the fungal spores, spreading the infection.

LIVE OAKS

In contrast to red oaks, live oaks are susceptible to oak wilt primarily through their root systems. In nature, live oaks often grow in groups, sometimes called motts. Underneath the mott, the root systems of the individual trees become interconnected. This grafting allows not only nutrients to be shared, but pathogens as well. Once a member of the mott has contracted the oak wilt fungus, the infection quickly spreads.

WHITE OAKS

White oaks (post, bur, chinkapin) are more resistant to oak wilt than other species, but are still at risk. Transmission generally occurs through spore transfer by insects, or by human activity.

Can you prevent Oak Wilt?

Oak wilt is an epidemic. Because of the concentration and susceptibility of oaks in Texas, especially red oaks, it can be difficult to isolate centers of infection and prevent further spread. The Texas A&M Forest Service and the Forest Health Protection branch of the U.S. Department of Agriculture have issued some guidelines to help prevent further tree death.

  • Remove and properly dispose of diseased red oaks immediately
    • Chip or bury all tree material
  • Do not transport unseasoned firewood
    • Firewood should be dry, splitting, and the bark should be peeling off
  • Do not store unseasoned oak firewood uncovered
    • Cover tightly with heavy, clear plastic and bury the edges to restrict insect access
  • Do not prune or otherwise wound oak trees from February 1 to July 1
    • The best time to trim is in the fall and winter
  • When infection is a risk, take proper precautions
    • Sterilize tools and paint cuts

If you have healthy oak trees in an area with infected trees, preventative treatment may be effective in slowing transmission. As oak wilt is a systemic, vascular disease, the most effective treatments consist of injecting the infected trees with a fungicidal chemical. The only currently recommended fungicide is Alamo®, a formulation of the fungicide propiconazole. The fungicide is administered through holes drilled in the root flare of the infected tree and should only be applied by Texas Department of Agriculture Licensed Applicators.

For large stands of oak trees, especially live oaks, trenching around the area and severing root connections can limit disease spread, as well.

A typical system for fungicidal injection; each green port is inserted into the living tissue of the tree.

Can you cure Oak Wilt?

There is no known cure for oak wilt. Reported home remedies or substances applied to the exterior of the tree have not be proven to have any remedial effect. If you have a tree that is infected with oak wilt, be sure to consult a Texas Oak Wilt Qualified arborist or your local Texas A&M Agrilife Extension agent to discuss treatment options.

Red oaks usually defoliate and die one to six months after becoming symptomatic. Live oaks may last up to a few years before total necrosis. White oaks show the most resistance to oak wilt and may survive several years after infection.

Fungicidal treatment may prolong the life of infected trees, but cannot eradicate the disease. However, systemic fungicides are most effective if a tree has not lost more than 30% of the crown. Contact a certified arborist to see if your tree may be a good candidate for treatment.

What areas have Oak Wilt?

In North Texas, there are many centers of infection. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we take oak wilt precautions throughout our service area. Still, there are a few neighborhoods in which we have seen particularly bad oak wilt activity:

  • Preston Hollow, Dallas
  • Lakewood, Dallas
  • Walnut Hill and Abrams, Dallas
  • Coit and Campbell, Richardson
  • President George Bush Turnpike and the Tollway, North Dallas
  • Park and US 75 in Plano
  • Highland Park
  • University Park

If you live in one of these areas, or suspect oak wilt activity in your neighborhood, contact your arborist to see what specific preventative steps are recommended for your trees.

Oak wilt is one of the greatest threats to trees in Texas. Education, awareness, and prevention are the best tools we have to protect our urban forest from devastation. If you want to learn more about oak wilt, visit TexasOakWilt.org.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We have several Oak Wilt Qualified arborists on staff; please let us know if you have any questions about oak wilt or any other tree question. We are always happy to help!

* – Until 2017, the oak wilt fungus was identified as Ceratocystis fagacearum.

How Do I Find Out What Disease My Tree Has?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

While many plant and tree diseases are commonly seen and can be accurately diagnosed by visual inspection, there are cases where further testing is required. In Texas, the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service runs the Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory, which is tasked with analyzing plant samples sent in from all over the state. When there is a question as to the particular pathogen affecting a tree, or when further treatment recommendations are needed, we advise our customers to submit a sample to the TPDDL.

The process of sample submission can appear daunting at first, but is actually fairly simple. There are three main steps:

  1. Collecting a sample
  2. Completing the form
  3. Packaging and shipping

1. Collecting a Sample

When collecting a sample for submission, there are a few guidelines that should be followed. In general, it is important to get a live sample, if possible. Clip off the part of the tree that is showing the worst symptoms, like the ends of branches with leaves attached. If there is a potential for root contamination, dig up a few small roots from near the tree trunk, along with some of the surrounding soil. For fruiting or flowering trees, be sure to get some not-yet-fallen blossoms or fruit, if they are showing signs of an issue, as well.

Certain diseases, such as Oak Wilt or Dutch Elm Disease, require specific sample types. The TPDDL submission form has instructions for these cases. 

2. Completing the Form

Filling out a form may not seem like a challenge, but for those unfamiliar with the TPDDL diagnostic process, there may be some information that needs to be gathered beforehand. Additionally, we have a few tips and recommendations to avoid confusion and get the most benefit out of the TPDDL analysis.

Click here to download a copy of the form as a PDF. There are instructions on the second page, and some helpful descriptions below.

Submitter Information

This is the contact info for the person actually sending in the form and sample. Make sure to indicate that you are the “Homeowner” or other category at the bottom.

Grower/Sample Location Information

For most tree owners, this will be the same as the Submitter Information. It is extremely important to make sure that the address under this section is where the tree or plant is actually located. An accurate location is essential for disesase tracking.

Result Options

We recommend receiving results via email, as this is the quickest method. If there is a third party, such as your arborist, to whom you would like the results sent, indicate that here.

Sample and Diagnosis Information

This can be one of the most daunting parts of filling out the form. You may not know all the information about your sample. It is important to fill in as much as you do know, so that proper recommendations can be made by the TPDDL.

For help identifying your trees, you can always contact your arborist. If you have a lawn service, ask them to see if they have applied any chemicals near the affected tree. Be sure to indicate watering practices, as well.

It is a good idea to send a copy of your results to your county AgriLife Extension Agent. This person is tasked with tracking plant health issues at the county level. If you would like to get in touch with your Agent, you can fine more information here.

Finally, if you have any other information that might be helpful, feel free to provide that here or attach a separate page.

Charges and Specific Diseases

If you are submitting a sample on your own, you may not have a specific disease in mind, and just want to know what’s wrong with your tree. However, you may have information from an arobirst or other plant health care professional who recommended sample submission. If you are not sure what to select, leave everything blank, and the TPDDL will perform a basic test. If they determine that further testing is required, they will conduct those as well. If you have been instructed by your arborist to get a test for a specific disease, indicate that here.

Fees and Billing

The TPDDL is supported by state of Texas funds, but does charge a fee for its services. The stardard diagnosis charge (as of December 2018) is $35 per specimen (individual plant/tree). Additional tests carry additional charges (see above). Make sure to include payment for the basic diagnosis and any opther services selected. If further testing is needed, the TPDDL will send a bill for any additional charges. If you do not wish to have any further testing done beyond the basic diagnosis, indicate that in the Comments or on the back of the form. However, an accurate diagnosis and management recommendations may not be possible without more specific tests.

If you have any concerns about the submission fees, contact your local AgriLife Exstension office.

3. Packaging and Shipping

It is critical to pack and ship your sample appropriately, to enable the TPDDL to conduct their analysis. Certain samples require special preparations, but for most submissions, all you need are some zip-top bags and basic packing material.

  • Send live samples only.
    • If the sample cannot be sent immediately after collection, be sure to keep it refrigerated.
  • Pack each sample type in a separate plastic bag.
    • Any soil or roots should be kept separate from leaves/branches and fruits/flowers.
  • Do not put anything else in the sample bags.
    • Do not put any excess moisture, paper towls, or submission forms.
  • Enclose submission forms in a separate plastic bag.
    • This helps keep the forms from getting damaged by sample leakage.
  • Pack all materials in a sturdy shipping box.
    • Do not use only an envelope, as the samples may be damaged.
    • Use recycled newspaper if you need extra padding.
  • Use expedited shipping if possible.
    • The TPDDL is open during normal business hours, Monday-Friday; consult their website for any scheduled closures.
    • Overnight shipping is usually the best option.

When Should I Expect My Results?

Depending on the season, results can come in as little as two weeks, but may take longer. The fall and spring are high submission times, and can lead to some delays. Additionally, certain tests take time to perform. If you have any questions about specifc turnaround time, contact the TPDDL.

What Will I Get Back from the Lab?

Once the testing is complete, you will receive a results report in the way you indicated on the form. You will not receive any of the samples or packing materials back. The results form indicates what tests were done, what the findings were, and what management steps are recommended.

Click here for a sample results report, and see the explanations below.

Specimen Number

This is the lab-assigned number for each specimen submitted. This number should be used in any correspondence to the TPDDL about your submission.

General Sample Notes

Here, the TPDDL will confirm the submitter information and provide any general notes about the sample.

Testing Overview

long with the dates the sample was received and processed, this section will indicate the TPDDL employeee responsible for your testing (diagnostician) as well as what types of tests were perfomed.

Diagnosis/Recommendations

This is the most important section of the lab report. Here, the diagnostician will list one or multiple diagnoses for the problems observed on the samples submitted. This information should be passed on to your arborist.

Additionally, the TPDDL will include management recommendations. These may include regulating moisture, temperature, and drainage. The lab may also recommend removal of all or part of the infected plant as well as application of fertilizes or a pesticide formulated to combat the particular pathogen. Please note that, while these recommendations are helpful, they may not be applicable to your particular situation. A certified arborist can examine the tree on-site and, along with the TPDDL results, make a complete diagnosis.

What do I do now?

The TPDDL testing results and recommendations will give you a starting point for managing a sick of stressed tree. Some steps, such as modifying watering schedules, need to be undertaken by the tree owner. Others, such as application of recommended pesticides, must be performed by a licensed professional. Once you have your results from the lab, contact a certified arborist to discuss the best way to proceed.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.

Is Mulch Really That Important?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Health Care

Is Mulch Really That Important?

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

Mulch is an important part of tree care that is often overlooked. Many trees are surrounded by turf grass or other plants, which can stifle their growth. Proper mulching can be the key to trees that not just survive, but thrive.

In nature, trees live in a complex organic environment. A forest can be made up of hundreds of different plant and animal species, each contributing something to its surroundings. The forest floor is composed of layers of organic material, from fallen and rotting trees to tiny plants that serve as ground cover. This complexity provides a habitat for animals, plants, and microorganisms. In this environment, a tree is able to send out its roots into rich, fertile soil and get the exact nutrients it needs to thrive.

In our urban environment, trees are often in competition for resources with turf grass.  or may even be surrounded by non-organic materials, such as concrete. The soil around a tree can easily become compacted due to above-ground traffic. While we cannot completely re-create the forest environment in a city, we can help reduce soil compaction and competition by correctly mulching around trees. When mulch is properly applied and maintained, trees are able to grow sturdier root structures, tree health is improved, and we benefit from hardier trees that can live for decades.

Does the Type of Mulch Matter?

Despite the various ways that mulch is marketed, packaged, and sold, there are only two basic types: organic and inorganic. Organic mulch is made up of plant material, and can come from a variety of sources. Wood chips, bark, nut shells, and pine needles are common components. Inorganic mulch includes anything that is not plant or animal material and does not break down naturally. Crushed stone, recycled tires, and landscape fabric are common types. While inorganic materials can be useful in certain landscaping applications, they are not beneficial to trees, and may actually be harmful if used as tree mulch.

Choosing the best mulch requires understanding the needs of your tree and the underlying soil conditions. Soil density, pH, drainage, and composition all have an effect on the ability of a tree to send out roots and get the nutrients it requires. While mulch is not primarily a fertilizer, it is composed of organic matter. Insects, earthworms, and microorganisms break down the organic material become food for the tree. Mulch selection and maintenance can influence which types of organisms are able to survive in the mulched area and benefit (or harm) the tree.

Most commercially-available mulch is made from tree material that is shredded to a consistent size, partially composted, and often dyed brown, black, or red. Commercial mulch is generally long-lasting and a good basic mulch. We recommend sourcing mulch from a reliable local producer that does not use chemical treatments or dyes, but composts mulch naturally.

In addition to general-purpose mulch, many producers offer mulch produced from a particular material, which can be used to alter or amend the chemical composition of the soil. Pine bark, for example, is acidic, and cedar mulch contains cedar oil, which can be a natural insect repellent. Other materials, such as nut shells or pine needles, may be available and can be helpful when mulching a particular species. Contact your arborist to see about mulch producers in your area/

Can I Use Wood Chips or Grass Clippings as Mulch?

Tree care businesses or municipalities may sell wood chips produced as a waste product of tree trimming or removal. If you have tree work performed, the tree trimmers may leave wood chips behind. These chips can be a cost-effective way to get organic material, but are not identical to commercially-produced mulch. Best practice is to compost any fresh wood chips before using.

Grass clippings, leaves, and other landscape waste material should be thoroughly composted before use to help prevent weed growth and neutralize any chemical imbalances. Sawdust should likewise be composted first, but sawdust from treated lumber should never be used as mulch. If modifications to soil pH are recommended, certain materials can be added uncomposted to mulch to achieve the desired effect. Ask your arborist for any special needs your trees may have.

How Should Mulch Be Applied?

Whatever type of organic mulch is used, it must be properly applied to provide its full benefits. Mulch that is improperly applied may even do more harm to the tree than good. While the planting of a new tree is the ideal time to begin proper mulching, any tree can benefit from mulch. For some trees that are in compacted soil or with root girdling issues, it may be best to perform a root excavation (such as by airspading) before mulching. If you have any questions or concerns about your trees’ roots or wonder if they could benefit from root zone excavation, contact your arborist.

Whether your trees are young or old, new or well-established, follow these guidelines for effective mulching: 

  • Lay mulch to cover a radius of approximately three to ten feet from the trunk, depending on the tree size.
    • The dripline, or outer edge of the canopy, can be used as an estimate for the circumference of the critical root zone of the tree.
    • For smaller trees, measure the diameter of the trunk (in inches) and multiply by 1.5. This is the radius (in feet) of the critical area.
  • For greatest effectiveness, it is recommended to remove turf grass in the mulched area.
    • A tree that is newly planted or that has had root excavation performed will likely already have a good buffer between it and the turf. Established trees may have turf grass covering all or part of the natural root flare, which should be carefully removed.
  • Use organic mulch only.
    • Any brick, stone, or metal tree rings should be outside the critical root zone.
  • Install mulch to a depth of two to four inches within the dripline circle.
    • Too thin a layer will be less effective at retaining moisture and regulating soil temperature.
    • A layer that is too thick may keep the soil too moist and harbor harmful bacteria or fungi..
  • The mulch should not touch the trunk of the tree. Leave a margin of about four inches.
    • Organic matter piled up against the trunk (a “mulch volcano”) can cause the bark to retain too much moisture, leading to trunk and root rot.
  • If a tree needs more water, you can form an additional ring of mulch about halfway between the trunk and the edge of the mulch zone.
    • This “donut” will help to funnel water to the central roots of the tree.
    • Make sure that water does not pool against the trunk.
  • Refresh the mulch in late spring and in fall, or as needed.
    • Inspect regularly, especially after heavy rain or storms, and even out thin/thick patches.
    • When the whole area is reduced through decomposition, re-apply to original depth.
  • Expand the mulched area as the tree grows.
    • Keep covering all the way out to the dripline, if possible.

Mulch should be expanded as the tree grows, and refreshed regularly.

Mulch that is piled too thick can lead to excess soil moisture.

Mulch should not touch the trunk of tree, as this can lead to rot.

The Right Mulch for You

In North Texas, it is common to have fairly dense, clay-like soil that tends to be more alkaline than acidic. Ensuring good drainage during wet weather can be difficult. In dryer periods, the soil can harden and crack. Mulch can help create a stable, permeable layer that can regulate moisture better than the underlying soil. Mulch also insulates the shallow roots from swings in temperature that we can have during the spring and fall. Most native trees and shrubs are adapted to the natural soil pH and composition, and only need basic mulching. Other species, however, may benefit from slightly acidic mulch.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about mulch. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.

Want a Free Tree? [UPDATED]

by Texas Tree Surgeons Events, Resources

There are two programs in North Texas this fall to help beautify our neighborhoods by providing free trees!

For Dallas residents, the City of Dallas is introducing a new program called “Branch Out Dallas” on Saturday, October 27th. City officials and representatives of Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service will discuss the benefits of trees for urban environments and providing an overview of tree care. The first 100 free trees of the new program will be handed out, with expanding availability between November 1, 2018 and January 11, 2019.

The kick-off event will take place at 10 am, Saturday, October 27th at

Kiestwood Assembly of God
2716 Kiest Blvd
Dallas TX 75233

For more information, visit this link.

The city has posted information to register for the free tree giveaway. check out the post at Green Dallas to sign up!

If you are not a Dallas resident, you can request a free tree through a partnership of Oncor and the Arbor Day Foundation. Trees can be mailed or can be delivered, as available. Plantings will begin this fall.

Visit the Energy-Saving Trees site to see what trees are available in your area!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we are excited about these local programs to encourage tree planting! If you have any questions about the best way to plant a tree, or any other tree questions, let us know!

What is Stump Grinding?

by Texas Tree Surgeons Resources, Tree Removal

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, our arborists also evaluate the site for stump grinding. While having the stump ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the stump at the same time as having the tree removed. Stump grinding allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The stump grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about stump grinding.

Non-natural material, such as this lighting cable, may reduce grinding depth.

How deep CAN THE stump grinder go?

We generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper grinding is needed, it can be requested, although the price of stump grinding may increase. The depth to which a stump can be ground is subject to some limitations, however.

  • The stump-grinding blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.
  • A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Dallas area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.
  • Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the stump grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:
    • Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a stump (such as a tree ring)
    • Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree stump
    • Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material
    • Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses
  • We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when grinding a stump, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

Grinder blade in action; grind depth can be limited by blade size.

What is left after a stump is ground?

As the blade grinds the stump and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by stump grinding can take up a much greater volume than the original stump. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from stump grinding is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the stump once was.

Stump grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after stump grinding, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

A stump of about 50 inches before grinding…

…the mulch from the same stump after grinding. The mulch left after after a stump is ground makes a great addition to flower beds and compost piles.

Will the tree come back after A stump is ground?

Even with stump grinding, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after stump grinding can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

Can I replant after a stump is ground?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the stump ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

When a tree falls, the root and stump area can be difficult to grind.

Can every stump be ground?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the stump cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the stump grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after grinding an uprooted stump may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when stump grinding can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a stump grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” stump grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple stumps in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the stump grinder.

How much does stump grinding cost?

The cost of stump grinding is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the stump, the location of the stump, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a stump grinding price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other stumps you may want to have ground.

How DO I MEASURE A STUMP?

The base cost for stump grinding is determined by the diameter of the stump in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the stump edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the stump grinding is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.

Surface roots need to be included in the stump measurement.

This is a 75-inch stump, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground.

Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a stump can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

Can the stump grinder reach my stump?

Our standard stump grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the stump. The stump grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the grinding blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the stump is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller stump grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

Stump grinder blade

Can i just leave the stump?

Iit is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a stump after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining stump as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the stump is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing stump.

Some homeowners prefer to let a stump decompose naturally over time. Old stumps can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the stump breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a stump is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the stump and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial stump killer can accelerate stump dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the stump with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

A stump left to decay naturally. The tree was removed approximately 5 years ago. (Photo courtesy Tom Davis)

More Questions about stumps? Let us know!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.