Category Tree Health Care

How Do I Find Out What Disease My Tree Has?

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

While many plant and tree diseases are commonly seen and can be accurately diagnosed by visual inspection, there are cases where further testing is required. In Texas, the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service runs the Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory, which is tasked with analyzing plant samples sent in from all over the state. When there is a question as to the particular pathogen affecting a tree, or when further treatment recommendations are needed, we advise our customers to submit a sample to the TPDDL.

The process of sample submission can appear daunting at first, but is actually fairly simple. There are three main steps:

  1. Collecting a sample
  2. Completing the form
  3. Packaging and shipping

1. Collecting a Sample

When collecting a sample for submission, there are a few guidelines that should be followed. In general, it is important to get a live sample, if possible. Clip off the part of the tree that is showing the worst symptoms, like the ends of branches with leaves attached. If there is a potential for root contamination, dig up a few small roots from near the tree trunk, along with some of the surrounding soil. For fruiting or flowering trees, be sure to get some not-yet-fallen blossoms or fruit, if they are showing signs of an issue, as well.

Certain diseases, such as Oak Wilt or Dutch Elm Disease, require specific sample types. The TPDDL submission form has instructions for these cases. 

2. Completing the Form

Filling out a form may not seem like a challenge, but for those unfamiliar with the TPDDL diagnostic process, there may be some information that needs to be gathered beforehand. Additionally, we have a few tips and recommendations to avoid confusion and get the most benefit out of the TPDDL analysis.

Click here to download a copy of the form as a PDF. There are instructions on the second page, and some helpful descriptions below.

Submitter Information

This is the contact info for the person actually sending in the form and sample. Make sure to indicate that you are the “Homeowner” or other category at the bottom.

Grower/Sample Location Information

For most tree owners, this will be the same as the Submitter Information. It is extremely important to make sure that the address under this section is where the tree or plant is actually located. An accurate location is essential for disesase tracking.

Result Options

We recommend receiving results via email, as this is the quickest method. If there is a third party, such as your arborist, to whom you would like the results sent, indicate that here.

Sample and Diagnosis Information

This can be one of the most daunting parts of filling out the form. You may not know all the information about your sample. It is important to fill in as much as you do know, so that proper recommendations can be made by the TPDDL.

For help identifying your trees, you can always contact your arborist. If you have a lawn service, ask them to see if they have applied any chemicals near the affected tree. Be sure to indicate watering practices, as well.

It is a good idea to send a copy of your results to your county AgriLife Extension Agent. This person is tasked with tracking plant health issues at the county level. If you would like to get in touch with your Agent, you can fine more information here.

Finally, if you have any other information that might be helpful, feel free to provide that here or attach a separate page.

Charges and Specific Diseases

If you are submitting a sample on your own, you may not have a specific disease in mind, and just want to know what’s wrong with your tree. However, you may have information from an arobirst or other plant health care professional who recommended sample submission. If you are not sure what to select, leave everything blank, and the TPDDL will perform a basic test. If they determine that further testing is required, they will conduct those as well. If you have been instructed by your arborist to get a test for a specific disease, indicate that here.

Fees and Billing

The TPDDL is supported by state of Texas funds, but does charge a fee for its services. The stardard diagnosis charge (as of December 2018) is $35 per specimen (individual plant/tree). Additional tests carry additional charges (see above). Make sure to include payment for the basic diagnosis and any opther services selected. If further testing is needed, the TPDDL will send a bill for any additional charges. If you do not wish to have any further testing done beyond the basic diagnosis, indicate that in the Comments or on the back of the form. However, an accurate diagnosis and management recommendations may not be possible without more specific tests.

If you have any concerns about the submission fees, contact your local AgriLife Exstension office.

3. Packaging and Shipping

It is critical to pack and ship your sample appropriately, to enable the TPDDL to conduct their analysis. Certain samples require special preparations, but for most submissions, all you need are some zip-top bags and basic packing material.

  • Send live samples only.
    • If the sample cannot be sent immediately after collection, be sure to keep it refrigerated.
  • Pack each sample type in a separate plastic bag.
    • Any soil or roots should be kept separate from leaves/branches and fruits/flowers.
  • Do not put anything else in the sample bags.
    • Do not put any excess moisture, paper towls, or submission forms.
  • Enclose submission forms in a separate plastic bag.
    • This helps keep the forms from getting damaged by sample leakage.
  • Pack all materials in a sturdy shipping box.
    • Do not use only an envelope, as the samples may be damaged.
    • Use recycled newspaper if you need extra padding.
  • Use expedited shipping if possible.
    • The TPDDL is open during normal business hours, Monday-Friday; consult their website for any scheduled closures.
    • Overnight shipping is usually the best option.

When Should I Expect My Results?

Depending on the season, results can come in as little as two weeks, but may take longer. The fall and spring are high submission times, and can lead to some delays. Additionally, certain tests take time to perform. If you have any questions about specifc turnaround time, contact the TPDDL.

What Will I Get Back from the Lab?

Once the testing is complete, you will receive a results report in the way you indicated on the form. You will not receive any of the samples or packing materials back. The results form indicates what tests were done, what the findings were, and what management steps are recommended.

Click here for a sample results report, and see the explanations below.

Specimen Number

This is the lab-assigned number for each specimen submitted. This number should be used in any correspondence to the TPDDL about your submission.

General Sample Notes

Here, the TPDDL will confirm the submitter information and provide any general notes about the sample.

Testing Overview

long with the dates the sample was received and processed, this section will indicate the TPDDL employeee responsible for your testing (diagnostician) as well as what types of tests were perfomed.

Diagnosis/Recommendations

This is the most important section of the lab report. Here, the diagnostician will list one or multiple diagnoses for the problems observed on the samples submitted. This information should be passed on to your arborist.

Additionally, the TPDDL will include management recommendations. These may include regulating moisture, temperature, and drainage. The lab may also recommend removal of all or part of the infected plant as well as application of fertilizes or a pesticide formulated to combat the particular pathogen. Please note that, while these recommendations are helpful, they may not be applicable to your particular situation. A certified arborist can examine the tree on-site and, along with the TPDDL results, make a complete diagnosis.

What do I do now?

The TPDDL testing results and recommendations will give you a starting point for managing a sick of stressed tree. Some steps, such as modifying watering schedules, need to be undertaken by the tree owner. Others, such as application of recommended pesticides, must be performed by a licensed professional. Once you have your results from the lab, contact a certified arborist to discuss the best way to proceed.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.

Is Mulch Really That Important?

Is Mulch Really That Important?

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

Mulch is an important part of tree care that is often overlooked. Many trees are surrounded by turf grass or other plants, which can stifle their growth. Proper mulching can be the key to trees that not just survive, but thrive.

In nature, trees live in a complex organic environment. A forest can be made up of hundreds of different plant and animal species, each contributing something to its surroundings. The forest floor is composed of layers of organic material, from fallen and rotting trees to tiny plants that serve as ground cover. This complexity provides a habitat for animals, plants, and microorganisms. In this environment, a tree is able to send out its roots into rich, fertile soil and get the exact nutrients it needs to thrive.

In our urban environment, trees are often in competition for resources with turf grass.  or may even be surrounded by non-organic materials, such as concrete. The soil around a tree can easily become compacted due to above-ground traffic. While we cannot completely re-create the forest environment in a city, we can help reduce soil compaction and competition by correctly mulching around trees. When mulch is properly applied and maintained, trees are able to grow sturdier root structures, tree health is improved, and we benefit from hardier trees that can live for decades.

Does the Type of Mulch Matter?

Despite the various ways that mulch is marketed, packaged, and sold, there are only two basic types: organic and inorganic. Organic mulch is made up of plant material, and can come from a variety of sources. Wood chips, bark, nut shells, and pine needles are common components. Inorganic mulch includes anything that is not plant or animal material and does not break down naturally. Crushed stone, recycled tires, and landscape fabric are common types. While inorganic materials can be useful in certain landscaping applications, they are not beneficial to trees, and may actually be harmful if used as tree mulch.

Choosing the best mulch requires understanding the needs of your tree and the underlying soil conditions. Soil density, pH, drainage, and composition all have an effect on the ability of a tree to send out roots and get the nutrients it requires. While mulch is not primarily a fertilizer, it is composed of organic matter. Insects, earthworms, and microorganisms break down the organic material become food for the tree. Mulch selection and maintenance can influence which types of organisms are able to survive in the mulched area and benefit (or harm) the tree.

Most commercially-available mulch is made from tree material that is shredded to a consistent size, partially composted, and often dyed brown, black, or red. Commercial mulch is generally long-lasting and a good basic mulch. We recommend sourcing mulch from a reliable local producer that does not use chemical treatments or dyes, but composts mulch naturally.

In addition to general-purpose mulch, many producers offer mulch produced from a particular material, which can be used to alter or amend the chemical composition of the soil. Pine bark, for example, is acidic, and cedar mulch contains cedar oil, which can be a natural insect repellent. Other materials, such as nut shells or pine needles, may be available and can be helpful when mulching a particular species. Contact your arborist to see about mulch producers in your area/

Can I Use Wood Chips or Grass Clippings as Mulch?

Tree care businesses or municipalities may sell wood chips produced as a waste product of tree trimming or removal. If you have tree work performed, the tree trimmers may leave wood chips behind. These chips can be a cost-effective way to get organic material, but are not identical to commercially-produced mulch. Best practice is to compost any fresh wood chips before using.

Grass clippings, leaves, and other landscape waste material should be thoroughly composted before use to help prevent weed growth and neutralize any chemical imbalances. Sawdust should likewise be composted first, but sawdust from treated lumber should never be used as mulch. If modifications to soil pH are recommended, certain materials can be added uncomposted to mulch to achieve the desired effect. Ask your arborist for any special needs your trees may have.

How Should Mulch Be Applied?

Whatever type of organic mulch is used, it must be properly applied to provide its full benefits. Mulch that is improperly applied may even do more harm to the tree than good. While the planting of a new tree is the ideal time to begin proper mulching, any tree can benefit from mulch. For some trees that are in compacted soil or with root girdling issues, it may be best to perform a root excavation (such as by airspading) before mulching. If you have any questions or concerns about your trees’ roots or wonder if they could benefit from root zone excavation, contact your arborist.

Whether your trees are young or old, new or well-established, follow these guidelines for effective mulching: 

  • Lay mulch to cover a radius of approximately three to ten feet from the trunk, depending on the tree size.
    • The dripline, or outer edge of the canopy, can be used as an estimate for the circumference of the critical root zone of the tree.
    • For smaller trees, measure the diameter of the trunk (in inches) and multiply by 1.5. This is the radius (in feet) of the critical area.
  • For greatest effectiveness, it is recommended to remove turf grass in the mulched area.
    • A tree that is newly planted or that has had root excavation performed will likely already have a good buffer between it and the turf. Established trees may have turf grass covering all or part of the natural root flare, which should be carefully removed.
  • Use organic mulch only.
    • Any brick, stone, or metal tree rings should be outside the critical root zone.
  • Install mulch to a depth of two to four inches within the dripline circle.
    • Too thin a layer will be less effective at retaining moisture and regulating soil temperature.
    • A layer that is too thick may keep the soil too moist and harbor harmful bacteria or fungi..
  • The mulch should not touch the trunk of the tree. Leave a margin of about four inches.
    • Organic matter piled up against the trunk (a “mulch volcano”) can cause the bark to retain too much moisture, leading to trunk and root rot.
  • If a tree needs more water, you can form an additional ring of mulch about halfway between the trunk and the edge of the mulch zone.
    • This “donut” will help to funnel water to the central roots of the tree.
    • Make sure that water does not pool against the trunk.
  • Refresh the mulch in late spring and in fall, or as needed.
    • Inspect regularly, especially after heavy rain or storms, and even out thin/thick patches.
    • When the whole area is reduced through decomposition, re-apply to original depth.
  • Expand the mulched area as the tree grows.
    • Keep covering all the way out to the dripline, if possible.

Mulch should be expanded as the tree grows, and refreshed regularly.

Mulch that is piled too thick can lead to excess soil moisture.

Mulch should not touch the trunk of tree, as this can lead to rot.

The Right Mulch for You

In North Texas, it is common to have fairly dense, clay-like soil that tends to be more alkaline than acidic. Ensuring good drainage during wet weather can be difficult. In dryer periods, the soil can harden and crack. Mulch can help create a stable, permeable layer that can regulate moisture better than the underlying soil. Mulch also insulates the shallow roots from swings in temperature that we can have during the spring and fall. Most native trees and shrubs are adapted to the natural soil pH and composition, and only need basic mulching. Other species, however, may benefit from slightly acidic mulch.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about mulch. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: Should I Worry About Mushrooms on My Tree?

Another installment in our series of posts where Texas Tree Surgeons answers your tree questions. Are you having problems with your trees and want to know what’s wrong? Let us know! Dear Texas Tree Surgeons,
There are some mushrooms growing up my tree’s trunk. Is that bad?

-K.N.

As we’ve mentioned before, all this rain has really been a mixed blessing. While we are happy to be safely out of drought conditions, many issues that we don’t see in drier weather have started presenting themselves. Fungi, which thrive in moist environments, have been growing rapidly, sometimes seeming to appear overnight. While a few toadstools in your yard may not indicate a serious problem, visible fungal growth on trees is something to be on the lookout for and may need to be addressed.

There are a wide variety of different fungal species that can live in the soil around trees. Some are beneficial, and are part of a healthy soil ecosystem. Others, however, can spread through a tree’s living tissue and cause health problems for the tree. We have seen problems with Chinese pistaches recently that are caused by a proliferation of fungi due to the wet weather. In the past few years, Italian cypresses have also been afflicted with health issues due to the spreading of a particular fungus. In both these cases, there were little or no warning signs or visible “mushroom” growth before the trees started browning and dying back. However, there are some fungal infections that exhibit visible growths and can be diagnosed before the tree is too far gone.

Kretzschmaria

The fungus Kretzschmaria deusta is a common cause of root rot. Hackberries are a North Texas tree species that is often susceptible to infection by Kretzschmaria. When fruiting in the spring, Kretzschmaria fungi appear gray or white, and may be confused with lichen. As they mature through the year, however, the fungal growths darken and can be harder to see. At any time of the year, black or gray growth near the base of a hackberry is a typical sign of a Kretzchmaria infection.

With Kretzschmaria, as with many fungi, looks can be deceiving, as even a small area of visible growth can indicate an extensive underground presence. If you see evidence of fungal activity at the base of a tree, the root system may already be infected to the point of structural failure, and the tree can be at risk of falling. A certified arborist can properly diagnose a Kretzschmaria infection and discuss options for dealing with the infected tree. Unfortunately, there is no treatment for Kretzschmaria, and an infected tree usually must be removed. It is possible to perform a root zone excavation and examine the extent of damage, but the tree will have come down eventually. It is better to remove a tree safely before it falls on its own.

Kretzschmaria is always present in the soil, and can infect a tree when there is root or trunk damage. Even a small cut in the bark can be an entry point for the microscopic fungal spores, so it is important to take care when displacing soil or doing landscaping work around a tree. Proper mulching in the critical root zone is a good way to protect the tree from bark damage.

The tell-tale gray and white of Kretzschmaria deusta.

The black on the tree trunk was a Kretzschmaria infection that weakened the root system and caused this tree to fall in a storm.

Ganoderma

Ganoderma is the name of a genus of fungi, and there are several different species that are present in the environment. While the different species vary in appearance, the ones commonly seen in North Texas generally mature into ear-shaped growths called “conks.” The conks may appear on a tree trunk, near the base, or even grow right out of the ground. The conks begin as white- or light-colored, but darken into dark orange or brown with a shiny appearance on top. Oaks and elms are particularly susceptible to Ganoderma, but other species can become infected, as well.

Ganoderma, like Kretzschmaria, is present in the soil, and infects a tree when its roots become damaged and lose their protective bark. While Ganoderma is similarly untreatable, it can be easier to detect in its early stages and may be able to be managed, avoiding immediate removal. Root zone excavation can also be helpful in determining the extent of damage.

Mature Ganoderma conks
Ganoderma conks can sprout from the ground where the infected root material is close to the surface.

ARE ALL MUSHROOMS BAD?

While Kretzschmaria and Ganoderma can cause serious tree stability and health problems, not all visible fungi are a hazard. Fungi in the genus Laetiporus (such as sulfur shelf or chicken of the woods mushrooms) can live on a tree trunk for years without harming the tree. Common white toadstools, such as those in the genus Lepiota, may appear in lawns as a result of beneficial fungal growth in the soil. In periods of heavy rain, species that are usually hidden underground may show visible growths. If you see mushrooms or other fungal growth in your yard or on your tree, send us a photo, and we are happy to let you know if it’s something to be worried about. We love trees and we love our customers, and we always want to help you understand the complex ecology of our urban forest.

Have a specific tree question? Let us know, and you may see it answered in a future Ask Texas Tree Surgeons installment!

Ask Texas Tree Surgeons: What’s All the Stuff Dripping on My Car and Patio?

Texas Tree Surgeons answers another question about trees in North Texas. Do you have a question, or would you like to have a visit from an arborist? Let us know!

I park under a tree a few times a week, and have been noticing little drops all over my windshield. Are the trees dripping sap on my car? Are the trees sick?

-S.J.

View from car window with residue on it

Is this what your car windows are starting to look like? You’re not alone…

If you park under trees this time of year, you may be noticing a slightly sticky residue on your windows. A similar substance may also be on your outdoor furniture. Since it seems to be coming from trees, sap is the first thing people think of. While trees can leak sap as a sign of infection, the sap is usually contained to a particular section on a tree limb or trunk, and doesn’t drip over a large area under the canopy. Tree sap is also much thicker and stickier than what we are seeing on cars lately. If you’re able to wipe the residue away with water or a little washer fluid, it’s probably not sap.

Ok, if it’s not sap, what is it?

Like our previous question about little twigs and leaves dropping out of season, the dripping is not a sign of a health issue with the tree, but is evidence of insect activity. While we can’t be certain of the exact insect without examining the tree, the most likely culprit is aphids.

Aphids are a problem for gardens and trees everywhere. Aphids eat sap from leaves and stems, and reproduce faster than any other insect. As they feed, they process the sap and turn it into a substance called “honeydew.” Honeydew is essentially sugar water, and is actually harvested by certain species of ants. Accumulations of honeydew on plants, especially crape myrtles, can lead to the growth of an unsightly black mold. A few species of aphids can also carry plant viruses.

If you haven’t guessed yet, what you’re seeing on your car is honeydew. As the aphids feed, the leaves and twigs can become covered in honeydew, which eventually starts to drip from the trees. Crape myrtles are a common victim of aphids, so they often drip more honeydew than other trees, but aphid activity in any tree can lead to honeydew and sooty mold.

So, how do you stop aphids from making a mess of everything?

The best control for aphids is actually the environment itself. Aphids have many natural predators, such as lady beetles (ladybugs), and they are very susceptible to changes in the weather. The lifespan of an aphid is about one month, so populations can die out quickly. In many cases, then, the best course of action may be to simply do nothing.

If further aphid control is needed, it is best to use biological and non-toxic measures. On smaller plants, a heavy water spray can dislodge aphids. Lady beetle larvae can be introduced to the environment and can quickly reduce aphid populations.

Insecticidal soaps and other surface insecticides (such as foliar sprays) can also be used to interrupt the aphid life cycle. However, these measures do not control adult aphids, and so they may be ineffective once the population has matured. Systemic insecticides are not effective against aphids.

Unfortunately, once the honeydew production has reached a high enough level that things are getting messy, the aphid population is probably past the point of effective insecticidal control. A heavy spray of water throughout the canopy may reduce the dripping, at least temporarily. Most likely, the honeydew will stop falling in the next couple of weeks.

Are you sure it’s aphids?

Of course, aphids are not the only source of residue falling from trees, but they are the one we see most often. We are always happy to come out and take a look at your trees and verify that there is nothing more serious to worry about. Unfortunately, we don’t provide any aphid controls that would be effective this season, but we can do some surface treatments on crape myrtles during the winter to help control the spring insect populations. Get in touch with us and we can have an arborist see which options might be best for you.

Keep those questions coming! At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we want to do all we can to spread tree knowledge!

Leaves Dropping Early? [UPDATED]

UPDATE 9/2019 – We see twig girdlers every year, so we thought it’d be a good idea to cover them again! While this post is directed toward Frisco, we are seeing them all over the Metroplex.

Dear Frisco Arborist,
Why are little clumps of leaves falling off my trees and making a mess of my yard?

Texas Tree Surgeons is proud to call North Texas home, and we want to answer questions asked by residents of our communities. Here, a real Frisco Arborist answers a common question this time of year.

As we move out of the heat of Summer and into Fall, many changes can be seen in our North Texas Trees. We begin to see leaves fall from many of our trees. Live oaks, however, generally keep their leaves until the Spring, when they exchange them for new growth. While Frisco, Texas, may not get the dramatic colors of other areas of the country, the variety of trees can still make for an interesting Fall change.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, our Frisco arborists have been getting questions about clumps of twigs and leaves falling from trees of all species. These leaves and twigs are dropping too early for Fall, and can begin to accumulate in yards. Concerned for the health of their trees, homeowners turn to the Frisco tree professionals.

While squirrel damage may account for some of the leaf and twig drops, there is another explanation for a lot of the damage we see: twig girdlers.

What is a twig girdler?

“Twig girdler” is the common name for several longhorn beetles in the genus Oncideres. Twig girdlers can target any tree species. In late Summer and early Fall, the adult twig girdlers appear in preparation for the mating season. Once they have mated, the female beetles begin their preparations for laying eggs.

Female twig girdler beetles feed on the tender shoots and bark of young tree growth and lay their eggs in the small segments at the ends of branches The beetles also remove a notch of bark around the circumference of twigs in which their eggs are laid. The notch around the twig causes it to die, and it falls to the ground with any leaves attached to it. The eggs hatch in a few days and the beetle larvae live in the fallen twig, eating the plant material throughout the winter. In the spring, the young beetles finish their growth and the adults emerge in the summer, ready for the life cycle to begin again.

What can I do about twig girdlers?

For Frisco tree owners, there are a few options for controlling twig girdlers:

  • Once the twigs have fallen, gather up and destroy
  • Keep monitoring trees during the winter and dispose of any fallen tree material
  • Contact a Frisco arborist for Plant Health Care treatment options
    • Often, there is a pesticide application in the Spring to control larvae and one in the Summer or Fall to control the adults

What if it’s something else?

Twig girdlers are not the only cause of unseasonable leaf and twig drop. While Frisco arborists often see twig drop from girdlers, squirrels can also cause similar damage. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we offer a full range of Plant Health Care programs that are tailored to your particular tree and what is affecting it. We are always happy to have one of our certified arborists in Frisco come out and take a look at what is causing your tree to drop twigs.

While we can treat for many of the causes of twig damage, sorry, but we don’t offer a squirrel repellent.

Request an Estimate or give us a call today to discuss what options the Frisco arborists at Texas Tree Surgeons have for you!

Dallas Tree Care – A Complete Guide to Tree Watering [UPDATED]

Summer in Dallas can seem to last forever and just like we need to keep ourselves hydrated, we need to make sure our urban forest has the water it needs. However, tree watering can be challenging to do correctly. We made this guide to help you make sure you’re not watering too little (or too much!).

Watering your trees might sound unnecessary; isn’t that what their deep roots are for? However, roots only work if there is enough moisture in the ground to absorb. In a city setting, however, that often isn’t the case, and our urban trees are left thirsty in the Dallas heat.

With a large portion of the Southwest United States constantly struggling against drought, consistent and correct watering is key. But what does that mean? Is more better? How often and when? See our top tips below for answers to all of your Dallas tree care and watering questions.

Dallas Tree Care – Tip Top Tree Tips

At Texas Tree Surgeons we know that trees have specific needs, but those needs are often overlooked. If you want your trees to really thrive you need to have the right information. We have put together some important points to keep in mind:

  • What time is best for tree watering? This is a great and common question we receive when working with Dallas tree care and watering, and it’s actually easy to remember! Only water with the rule of 8, meaning you can water before 8AM or after 8PM. Simple, right?
  • What method is best for tree watering? This can be tricky, as many tree owners think that their sprinklers are enough, but if sprinklers provide the right amount of water for your small flowers and grass, how could it be enough for your trees too? Trees need a greater water source because they are larger. Use a soaker hose or garden hose for best results.
  • What can I do to help trees retain moisture? Some people have asked what, in addition to watering, they can do to give their trees the upper hand against the Texas heat, and if there’s one thing Texas Tree Surgeons know how to do, it’s beat the heat. If you want the water you put in the ground to stay in the ground, consider mulching, as this helps trees retain moisture and regulates the evaporation. Check out our recent post on mulching!
  • What should I avoid when watering my trees? Texas Tree Surgeons and our Dallas Tree Care Guide recommend never using herbicides on your lawn, or products (like fertilizers) high in nitrogen, as this can open the door to leaf-scald during drought conditions. Ask a certified arborist what soil amendments are right for your trees!
  • What is the best way to water my trees? If you are going to use a garden hose to water your trees, make sure you follow these 3 Dallas tree care steps. 1) Place the hose 1-2 feet from the root flare. 2) Let the hose run at a volume that is flowing but not enough to puddle or stream away. 3) Soak the entire area under the canopy of the tree for best results. And of course, always remember to let the ground around your tree’s base completely dry between waterings.

Dallas Tree Care – Omens of Overwatering

Now that Texas Tree Surgeons has given you the Dallas Tree Care Guidelines for how to water your trees, it’s important to go over how NOT to water your trees. After all, too much water can actually drown your trees! See the 3 quickest signs of overwatering below, so you can be in the know.

  1. Check the top of the root ball to look for saturation – your foot should not sink below grade.
  2. Leaves of an overwatered tree may appear yellow or feel leathery.
  3. Leaves of an overwatered tree may be difficult to pull from the tree.

Just like with people, too much of a good thing is no longer good, so make sure you have the right moisture balance for your trees, just like you do for yourself.

Do You Have a Tree in Need of Dallas Tree Care?

We hope our Dallas Tree Care Guide to Tree Watering helped hydrate your knowledge and refresh your outlook on how to best care for your trees. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we truly believe that trees can become an important part of the community, and so it’s important to take care of them. Look here to see just how much of an impact a giant Pecan can have on a town!

If you think one of your trees might be in need of some assistance don’t hesitate to call, as Texas Tree Surgeons are here to help! We love all trees and would love to check yours out and make sure they are healthy, happy and thriving. Give us a call today at 469-387-6000!

UPDATE 9/2019 – As summer drags on, we often get questions about watering for other landscaping, not just trees, and we wanted to add a link to a comprehensive guide to watering and how to get the most out of your efforts. Thanks to Gary Ashton from Nashville, Tennessee, for the post!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we want to give you all the tools and information you need to keep your plants healthy during our sweltering summers! As always, if you have any questions about proper tree watering, tree health care, or anything else about your trees, let us know!