Tag crape myrtle

It looks like spring is finally here, and many homeowners are heading back out to their gardens and lawns to get them ready for summer. While spring is a great time to renew mulch and fertilize your trees, many people are also looking to freshen up their outdoor areas by planting new decorative shrubs and trees. 

Choosing the right decorative or ornamental tree for your yard can seem overwhelming; there are many different types available in our area. Some species, however, are more suited to our climate and soil, and taking a little knowledge with you on your trip to the nursery can go a long way toward planting a tree that will thrive. 

With that in mind, Texas Tree Surgeons has put together a list of our Top Ten Decorative Trees for North Texas, curated by our owner and ISA Board Certified Master Arborist Amy Langbein Heath.

Crape Myrtle

Let’s start with a Southern classic, the crape myrtle. Different types of crape myrtles come with various flower colors, from hot pink to lavender. Crape myrtles also have a variety of trunk colors and can range in height. Some crape myrtles are actual trees and other varieties are considered a shrub. They are a popular North Texas tree because they enjoy full sun and require moderate water and little maintenance. This tree is fast growing and due to the gorgeous blooms it produces in the summer is a great tree to plant multiples for a border. For more information on crape myrtles, see our recent post.

Purple Leaf Plum

Nothing says spring in North Texas like purple leaf plum trees in bloom. As you drive around North Texas, you can spot and identify their beautiful flowers in pink or white. Purple leaf plum makes for a beautiful ornamental tree. It has a single trunk and purple or reddish leaves all year round, so it looks great in landscaping when it’s not in bloom, too. The tree requires full or partial shade and needs an area of about 20 x 20 feet to take root and grow properly. Like the crape myrtle, it requires moderate water. It is also a great bee attractor and grows one to two feet a year.

Texas Mountain Laurel

Texas mountain laurel is another showstopper, especially when in bloom. Not much seems to bother this drought-tolerant beauty. A hard freeze might eliminate blooms one year but it won’t kill it. Texas mountain laurel requires good drainage and the trees are happy growing among rocks and limestone in other parts of Texas. This small tree looks more like a large shrub. It prefers full or partial sun and needs approximately 20 feet to grow. It is slow growing.  It is green all year and in March, when it is in full bloom with gorgeous purple blossoms, it puts out a delicious scent reminiscent of grape bubblegum. It is a kid favorite, but beware the silvery pods it puts out in late summer. The pods hold a red bean that can be poisonous in large amounts.

Vitex

Another purple showstopper is the Texas vitex, also known as a Texas lilac. Vitex generally appears more like a shrub or small tree with a large top. It is drought-tolerant which makes it perfect for xeriscaping, and is happy in direct sun. When in bloom, May through September, vitex showcases spiky blooms of lavender flowers. It also produces sporadically throughout the fall. Vitex needs 15 x 10 feet to grow properly. It is deciduous and loses its leaves in the winter. Vitex is also known for its ability to attract bees and butterflies.

Eve’s Necklace

A relative of mountain laurel, Eve’s necklace is another decorative tree favorite. Eve’s necklace is a small tree with lustrous green leaves. Come springtime you can expect a delicate canopy and pink flowers that hang in beautiful clusters. Like its cousin the mountain laurel, it produces pods in late summer into fall that resemble a string of beads, giving it its name eve’s necklace. The seeds are reportedly poisonous. Eve’s necklace can grow in direct sun or in light shade. It is easy to grow and takes low water.

RedBud

When we say “redbud,” we usually mean the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), but there are two other cultivars, Texas redbud and Mexican redbud, that are also common. All three varieties have heart-shaped leaves and pink/purple blossoms. The redbud is a relatively small tree. It has a short trunk, spreading branches and can grow to about 20 feet tall. It is often added to gardens and houses because it is one of the season’s earliest flowering trees and adds a lot of color with its burst of pinkish/purplish flowers. The redbud’s green leaves, stunning blossoms, and seed pods make it a beautiful decorative tree choice all year round. The redbud does best in full sun or light shade and the Mexican and Texas varieties are drought-tolerant.

Flowering Dogwood

Flowering dogwoods are a much-loved feature of gardens both in East Texas and the DFW Area. Dogwoods generally exhibit white blooms, but may also show pink or other colors. They bloom for 3-4 weeks in the springtime, and looks particularly spectacular during that time, but are a great decorative choice all year long. Fall brings crimson foliage, giving way to red berries in the winter. In their natural environment, dogwoods are understory trees, protected and surrounded by other trees. Because of this, flowering dogwoods prefer at least partial shade to thrive.

Yaupon Holly

Yaupon holly is a versatile, multi-trunk shrub or small tree. Yaupon can be trimmed into a hedge or left to grow as an individual tree, making it a popular choice for residential and commercial landscaping. A hardy evergreen, yaupons produce small white flowers in the spring and the female plants produce bright red berries that stay until fall. Yaupons are drought-tolerant and can reach a height of 25 or 30 feet. The dense foliage and berries are attractive to birds throughout the year. Additionally, the yaupon is the only caffeine-containing plant that is native to North America. The leaves can be dried and used for tea!

Japanese Maple

A graceful and elegant addition to the right landscape, the Japanese Maple is a local favorite for good reason. There are numerous varieties available, with foliage in a range of colors. Japanese maples start out with green leaves in the spring, which quickly mature into shades of red and ochre. These medium-sized ornamentals love the shade and thrive under larger plants or shaded by houses. One of the common issues we see with Japanese maples is too much sun, but if you have space in the shade, they can be a welcome addition.

Desert Willow

Looking for a low-maintenance, full sun, drought-tolerant tree? Meet the desert willow. The small tree or large shrub has a spreading crown with willow-like light green leaves. In the mid-summer, these have fragrant, pink flowers that form in clusters at the tip of the branches. This native tree can withstand the heat of our North Texas summers and its flowers are a great hummingbird and bee attractor!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers! While we don’t plant trees ourselves, we are always happy to give recommendations to help you find the perfect tree for your yard. Contact us online or give us a call and we’ll see what we can do to help!

Crape myrtles (also crepe myrtles), seen by many as something between a bush and a tree, are often misunderstood and, as a result, not well cared for. Properly maintained, however, the crape myrtle, a beautiful and hardy flowering tree, can be a striking addition to a landscape.

Although native to South Asia, crape myrtles have been cultivated in North America since the 18th century. Naturally a multi-stemmed bush, the crape myrtle has been bred into many different species and subspecies, each with its own unique characteristics. The species most commonly found in North Texas is Lagerstroemia indica, which can flower in a range of colors. Left to grow, this species of crape myrtle can reach a height of about 20 feet, with a spread of about 20 feet as well. Other varieties of crape myrtle may exhibit different growing patterns and sizes at maturity.

Basic Care for Crape Myrtles

The crape myrtle is prized for its hardiness, low maintenance, and colorful blooms. Crape myrtles can thrive in many types of soil, such as the alkaline, dark clay that is present in much of North Texas. Crape myrtles are also drought resistant, although they can be susceptible to over-watering or poor drainage.

Aside from proper trimming and removal of dead plant matter from crevices between the trunks, crape myrtles can often benefit from fertilization, and may need professional care when common health issues arise. Fortunately, few of the common crape myrtle health issues pose a serious threat to the survival of the tree. Attentive pruning is often all that is required to keep a crape myrtles healthy and vigorous for decades.

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers, line trimmers, and other activity. Planting ground cover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Common Crape Myrtle Issues

Topping

Physical Damage

Crape myrtles have thin bark that peels off during the year. As a result, crape myrtles can be easily damaged by lawnmowers and other tools. Planting groundcover other than turf grass around crape myrtles as well as proper mulching can provide a buffer to help protect the trunks and roots.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

The crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is the most common crape myrtle pest. This tiny insect feeds on the sap of the crape myrtle and produces a liquid called honeydew, that can often be observed dripping from crape myrtles in the spring. While the aphids generally pose no serious threat to the health of the plant, their honeydew can lead to the growth of sooty mold (see below). Aphids can be controlled with systemic treatments or insecticidal soaps.

Sooty Mold

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is another fungus (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) that affects crape myrtles. Unlike sooty mold, however, powdery mildew can pose a greater risk to the health of the plant. Powdery mildew appears as a grayish-white growth on young plant tissue. Only a few spores are needed, often transmitted by the wind, to take hold and begin an infestation on a crape myrtle. Cooler temperatures and moderate to high humidity are the idea growing conditions for powdery mildew, so it is most active in the spring and fall. Overwatering, overfertilization, and poor air circulation can contribute a crape myrtle’s susceptibility to the fungus. As the fungus spreads, it can cause new affected growth to die, with leaves curling and dropping. Extreme cases can cause extensive damage. Fortunately, there are several powdery mildew-resistant cultivars of crape myrtle. Even without a natural resistance, powdery mildew can be managed or prevented by allowing crape myrtles to receive full sun, by proper pruning for light and air flow, and by following best practices for watering and fertilizing. Growth that is affected by the powdery mildew fungus should be removed in the fall. Generally, systemic fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew. However, a certified arborist can properly diagnose the extent of a powdery mildew infection, and provide appropriate treatment recommendations.

Crape myrtles are a beautiful and important part of our North Texas urban forest. While officially the Texas State “Shrub,” crape myrtles are versatile trees that come in many sizes and varieties. We hope this information will help our community better understand and care for their crape myrtles. At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees (and shrubs!), and we love our customers. As always, let us know if you have any questions about your crape myrtles, or any other trees.

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we have created a series of articles covering tree basics. If you have a specific tree question, let us know!

When providing a proposal for a tree removal, our arborists also evaluate the site for stump grinding. While having the stump ground is not always necessary, many people prefer to deal with the stump at the same time as having the tree removed. Stump grinding allows the property owner to use the area where the tree once stood for laying sod or planting a flower bed. The stump grinder also produces mulch that has many uses around the yard. Here are answers to some common questions we get about stump grinding.

Non-natural material, such as this lighting cable, may reduce grinding depth.

How deep CAN THE stump grinder go?

We generally grind four to six inches below grade (ground level). If deeper grinding is needed, it can be requested, although the price of stump grinding may increase. The depth to which a stump can be ground is subject to some limitations, however.

• The stump-grinding blade has a diameter of about 10 inches, and can only be maneuvered up and down within a specific range.
• A tree that grew in shallow soil, such as over the limestone bedrock prevalent in the Dallas area, may not have six inches of grindable depth.
• Other material near or around the tree may limit how deep the grinder can go. While the stump grinder is powerful, it is only designed to handle plant material, wood, and dirt. Take note of:
  • Fencing, concrete, brick, or rock around a stump (such as a tree ring)
  • Nearby trees that may have roots under the tree stump
  • Swimming pools, walkways, and patios that may prevent the grinder from reaching all of the root material
  • Lawn irrigation, sprinkler systems, tree lighting wiring, and buried hoses
• We generally do not grind deep enough to risk interfering with properly-installed utility lines or buried cables, but unforeseen obstacles can be encountered that necessitate a shallower grind.

What exactly lies beneath the roots of a tree or the surrounding soil may be a mystery, even to the homeowner. While we are very careful when grinding a stump, we will not take responsible for damage to irrigation lines or other items located below ground that we are not aware of. It is important to inform your arborist of any sprinkler systems or other objects that might be in the area to be ground before the work begins.

Grinder blade in action; grind depth can be limited by blade size.

What is left after a stump is ground?

As the blade grinds the stump and surface roots, it produces a mulch made up of tree material and dirt. The mulch produced by stump grinding can take up a much greater volume than the original stump. (It can be helpful to think of the difference between a block of cheese and that same cheese after it is grated.)

Mulch from stump grinding is valuable organic material that decomposes more quickly than many other kinds of mulch, as there are generally smaller wood particles present, and more soil to help it break down. It is our standard practice to push the mulch back into the area that has been ground (“backfilling”). Even so, there is usually a large pile of mulch left above ground, often much more than the tree owner expected. Because of its composition, the mulch does settle fairly quickly, but many people prefer to use the mulch around their yards, rather than leaving it where the stump once was.

Stump grinder mulch can be used for composting or applied in flower beds. (Depending on exact composition of the mulch, it may not perform in the same way as typical hardwood mulch, and may need to be replaced sooner.) After some time, when the mulch has settled, it can be packed into the ground-out area, making the area ready to be prepped for laying sod or for planting a flower bed or other small plants. If requested, we can provide mulch bagging and/or bagged mulch haul-off as an additional service after stump grinding, but our standard practice is to leave all grinder mulch on-site.

A stump of about 50 inches before grinding…

…the mulch from the same stump after grinding. The mulch left after after a stump is ground makes a great addition to flower beds and compost piles.

Will the tree come back after A stump is ground?

Even with stump grinding, some species of tree can still send up shoots and new growth from the roots left below ground. Crape myrtles, chinaberry trees, hackberries, and Bradford pears are some common species in the area that can be very persistent in growing back. The sprouts that return after stump grinding can be trimmed or mown down and will eventually stop coming back, as the remaining roots use up their energy reserves. Commercially-available woody stem killer can be used to accelerate the dieback of the roots. White vinegar can also be used as an organic alternative to commercial root killer.

Can I replant after a stump is ground?

We are often contacted about removing a tree that the owner would like to replace. We do not recommend trying to re-plant trees in the same area where a tree was removed and the stump ground. Even with a deep grind, an extensive root system remains underground. The old root system can interfere with the new tree’s attempts to become established. Furthermore, if the old tree had a disease, that disease may still be present in the remaining root tissue, and can be transmitted to the new tree. When replanting is desired, we can discuss finding a location that is far enough from the removed tree to lessen the likelihood of interference from the old root system. If homeowners’ association or municipal restrictions require a tree to be replaced in a certain location, excavation or hand digging may be the only options.

When a tree falls, the root and stump area can be difficult to grind.

Can every stump be ground?

In the case of a tree becoming uprooted (because of storm damage or root rot, for example), the stump cannot be dealt with as easily. If there is a large amount of root material above ground, the stump grinder may be physically unable to reach it. Depending on the type of tree and how it grew, it may pull up a great deal of dirt, turf grass, and other underground material when it falls. What is left after grinding an uprooted stump may be more dirt than tree matter, and may not be suitable for use as mulch.

Weather is also a factor that can determine how and when stump grinding can be performed. A long period of rain can cause the soil to become waterlogged. Operating a stump grinder in heavy, wet soil can not only make a bigger mess than usual, but can damage the surrounding area due to the weight of the machine. It may be necessary to wait until the area dries out before attempting even a “standard” stump grind.

If a customer has a special circumstance, like an uprooted tree, or there are multiple stumps in one area to be ground, we always send an arborist to assess the situation before providing a quote or scheduling the stump grinder.

How much does stump grinding cost?

The cost of stump grinding is dependent upon three main factors: the size of the stump, the location of the stump, and how deep the grinder needs to go. While we generally provide a stump grinding price when we give a quote for tree removal, we are also happy to evaluate any other stumps you may want to have ground.

How DO I MEASURE A STUMP?

The base cost for stump grinding is determined by the diameter of the stump in inches, including any above-ground roots. This measurement can be taken before or after a tree is removed. To get the right measurement, it is important to go “from dirt to dirt.” This means measuring from the stump edge or root point (where it touches the dirt) farthest from the trunk to the opposite edge or root point. It is also important to measure from different directions and to take an average measurement, as this most accurately reflects the area to be ground. The “dirt-to-dirt” measurement can be quite a bit larger than the diameter of the tree trunk, and we do see situations where the stump grinding is more costly than removing the above-ground tree.

Surface roots need to be included in the stump measurement.

This is a 75-inch stump, measured “dirt to dirt” at the yellow line. Measuring on the trunk is inaccurate: if this tree were measured at the red line, the result would only be 37 inches, which is not the actual area to be ground.

Even after a tree is cut down, properly measuring a stump can be tricky when there is a root flare and surrounding vegetation.

Can the stump grinder reach my stump?

Our standard stump grinder is a machine that is seven feet long and three feet wide. At the front is a rounded blade (similar to the tip of a chainsaw) that chips away wood as it moves across the stump. The stump grinder is designed to fit through standard gates, but some older or narrow gates may not be able to accommodate it. The weight of the machine may also prevent it from reaching certain areas without damaging walkways or ground cover. While the grinding blade has some maneuverability, clearance of at least seven feet on one side of the stump is required to allow the grinder to access the area to be ground. In smaller areas with less clearance, it is possible to use our smaller stump grinder, but this can increase the time and cost of the procedure.

Stump grinder blade

Can i just leave the stump?

Iit is not necessary to grind or otherwise remove a stump after a tree is taken down. We have customers who request a tree not be cut all the way to ground level, and use the remaining stump as a plant stand, table base, or just a yard feature. Even if the stump is cut close to the ground, it can last several years. Preservative coatings can also be applied to prolong the life of a standing stump.

Some homeowners prefer to let a stump decompose naturally over time. Old stumps can become habitats for fungi, insects, and other creatures. As the stump breaks down, it can become rich organic material that can be added to compost or used in planting. If a stump is left unground, however, it can continue to send out new growth for years after the tree has been removed. Drilling holes in the stump and filling with Epsom salt or using commercial stump killer can accelerate stump dieback, but those chemicals can be toxic to surrounding plant life. Treating the stump with chemicals can also make the area hazardous to people and pets.

A stump left to decay naturally. The tree was removed approximately 5 years ago. (Photo courtesy Tom Davis)

More Questions about stumps? Let us know!

At Texas Tree Surgeons, we love trees and we love our customers, and we believe that the more people learn about their trees, the better we can serve our community. We hope this article has helped answer your questions about stump grinding and what your options might be. If you have any specific questions, let us know, and we’ll be happy to send an arborist out to evaluate your needs and offer our suggestions and expertise.